Neve style 500 series mic pre 1290 1073

[Whoops]

I don't get this part. Ok I put the sockets on the legs, i cut them I tiny bit since too long. Then should I solder the sockets to the legs?

No, you solder the legs to the PCB.
That way you can remove the DC converter and replace it in the future in case it fails.
At least thats how I interpret that, but as I told before I never built this project

 

[Whoops]

My best advice to you...

You're a new member, and you're still learning most of the really basic stuff which is great but you also need to do your part of the work to be more prepared for the projects you build.
A lot of the questions you asked were already replied in this thread.

My advice for any new project you do and for this one also is:
- Open a blank Word document
- Start reading the thread from the first page, from the beggining
- All the  info you think is relevant or might be relevant, copy it to the word document including photos
- posts that don't seem relevant just skip them fast
- it's a lot of pages but you will see you will go over them quickly
- When you reach the last page you will have learned a lot, have a better understanding of the project, it's problems and difficulties (remember a lot of people did it before you, shared experience) and you will also be much more confident in building the project

I proceed with this method for any project I do up until this day, I advise you to do the same.
People are really helpful around here but no one wants to keep answering the same questions over and over again. Specially stuff that you can also search easily in google like the mW to W conversion.

This is a groupdiy forum rule:

 

[tomheavybeats]

I wired the terminal block backward and on desoldering I have lost a few of the PCB pads, am I screwed? Do I solder terminal block back in and see if I get continuity from those points or try to remedy now? Pics are a bit blurry sorry

 

[Whoops]

Do I solder terminal block back in and see if I get continuity from those points or try to remedy now?

Yes, measure continuity after.
If you have continuity all is good.

For this type of soldering and desoldering has the tracks and pads are small it's better to use a soldering iron of 12w to 15w max.

Good Luck

 

[tomheavybeats]

Thank you, will try now

 

[tomheavybeats]

EDIT: Looks like I damaged Pin2 PCB pad on input trafo as its not making connection to HiLo switch. Have run a wire

 

[Cdp]

Hey there!

I'm looking for some 500series Neve style pres. Aml ez1073 seems very nice, and the don audio NV73 too.
Did someone experience between the two? Are they very similar or are there noticeable differences?

Also, I'm new in sourcing my own parts, and I can't find the grayhill rotary switch. There are also somme parts with a long lead time on mouser,
does someone know where to find them, or an equivalent part?

Thanks all!

 

[Whoops]

Aml ez1073 seems very nice, and the don audio NV73 too.
Did someone experience between the two? Are they very similar or are there noticeable differences?

Basically the same product.
I prefer the look of the Don Classics one with the white switches and useful output knob, it's also cheaper than AML

Also, I'm new in sourcing my own parts, and I can't find the grayhill rotary switch. There are also somme parts with a long lead time on mouser,
does someone know where to find them, or an equivalent part?

There's a thread maybe 2 weeks old about the same situation with the switch, do a search you will find it

 

[nielsk]

I was just looking at this myself, as I need to build a few more of these.
Please tell me how the AML costs more when a complete kit from them is 200 pounds and any way I peel it it is over $350 for the Don after everything required is purchased?
My big question is what is the AML doing to get the 24 VDC?
I have built many of the Don's and not had any issues with the DC-DC converter, it looks like the ALM is using the "floating the ground" thing which I have had many problems with.
Can anyone clarify this?

 

[Cdp]

Basically the same product.
I prefer the look of the Don Classics one with the white switches and useful output knob

I totally agree with that! the trim knob on the AML seem to be not pratical at all...

I was just looking at this myself, as I need to build a few more of these.
Please tell me how the AML costs more when a complete kit from them is 200 pounds and any way I peel it it is over $350 for the Don after everything required is purchased?

Again, agree!! when I compute all the items I need to buy, aml is cheaper, but you don't have the line level, output pot and other switches Whoops talked about

There's a thread maybe 2 weeks old about the same situation with the switch, do a search you will find it

Sorry I missed it! I searched for a while before posting but didn't find anything... will try again!

 

[Whoops]

Please tell me how the AML costs more when a complete kit from them is 200 pounds and any way I peel it it is over $350 for the Don after everything required is purchased?

I just saw the price of the Nv73 in the Don Classics website. It says £149 for the Mic Pre kit while in the AML it says around £200 for the kit.
I never build any of those and I didn't do a deep research so if both kits are not comparable because they don't include the same items please feel free to correct me

 

[Whoops]

My big question is what is the AML doing to get the 24 VDC?
I have built many of the Don's and not had any issues with the DC-DC converter, it looks like the ALM is using the "floating the ground" thing which I have had many problems with.
Can anyone clarify this?

There's a build doc on the AML site for that project, haven't you seen it?

http://www.audiomaintenance.com/downloads/ez1073pre_colourbook.pdf

The Doc has the schematic so it will be easy for you to clarify that.
As far as I can see, the -16V rail is used as the negative voltage reference and the +16V rail is regulated to +8V and used as the positive voltage, making it +24V between the reference and the positive.

 

[nielsk]

Thanks Whoops, that is what I was figuring AML was doing to get +24VDC. For me that is a deciding factor, it is worth $100 more and the work to obtain the required parts from multiple sources to be sure it will work well in all situations. I wish AML had put in an option to use a DC-Dc converter, it sure is a lot easier to purchase a complete kit! I wonder if one could be fit...
The output fader on the AML does not bother me so much, but I would prefer a knob.
I was considering replacing the pot with a 1/8" shaft version, and using a shaft coupler to extend it out to the point a knob can be installed ( or seeing if a longer shaft pot can be sourced, much simpler!)
Cdp, there is no Line Input on either of these, they are mic preamps. Not even a pad that would bring it to line level, just impedance tap switching.

 

[Cdp]

I just saw the price of the Nv73 in the Don Classics website. It says £149 for the Mic Pre kit while in the AML it says around £200 for the kit.

The AML is a full kit, the NV73 is a partial. You still need to buy grayhill gain switch (wich is not available anywhere in the world today...!) the in and out transfos and 80% of the other components.

I was considering replacing the pot with a 1/8" shaft version, and using a shaft coupler to extend it out to the point a knob can be installed ( or seeing if a longer shaft pot can be sourced, much simpler!)
Cdp, there is no Line Input on either of these, they are mic preamps. Not even a pad that would bring it to line level, just impedance tap switching.

if you find the right pot to fit a knob on, I appreciate if you can share the reference!
As I need 4 pres not in a long time, I think I will start with the aml, and wait for the NV73.

About the line level, I'm pretty sure I have read somewhere in this topic that the firts step on the NV73 can be used for a line input as it has no gain and... something else I can't remember  :

I'll try to find it!

 

[Cdp]

Yes, will accept line level (same as a Neve 1063, which used just the one transformer for line and mic duties)

Gain.... Not sure I follow.. but 0dB setting, means no gain, unity.  65dB setting means 65dB gain.  As it's a 12 position switch I couldn't have the same 22 positions as a 1073, so chose the most logical steps in my experience.  With the Lo Z pressed, you get another 5dB or so too if you need it for old ribbons.  Wouldn't take much to change the top gain setting to a larger gain, if you needed, but I find 65dB to perfectly fine.  (plus the extra gain from Lo-Z to be perfect)

Here it is!

 

[nielsk]

In theory that works, but in practice... not so good. There are reasons why Neve went to a separate line input transformer going into the 2nd gain stage.

 

[nielsk]

I have found a source with the Grayhill switches in stock, only problem is they have a 25 piece minimum (@ $40 each plus shipping)
Any interest in a group buy?

 

[ratrace]

I have found a source with the Grayhill switches in stock, only problem is they have a 25 piece minimum (@ $40 each plus shipping)
Any interest in a group buy?

i used this one in a 1290 build, it is shorting version rather than non-shorting wich is what the build guide ask, if you don't mind about a big "pop/click" between 50 and 55 position (maybe it does not happend in the aml and/or don build) it's avaible for order at mouser

 

[nielsk]

That is the solder eyelet version, not PCB pin, correct?
It would be very difficult to use in this 500 series format
No problem with the shorting (make before break), in theory it should be less noise when switching

 

[Cdp]

I have found a source with the Grayhill switches in stock, only problem is they have a 25 piece minimum (@ $40 each plus shipping)
Any interest in a group buy?

Hi nielsk, why not, but it seems a bit expensive don't you think?
Where is your link (US, Europe?)

I'm located in france and need maybe 8 of them