Official C12 Clone - Build and Support Thread

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johnsonic

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Really dumb question here! This is going to be my 1st condenser mic build, and wondering what the recommended way to bridge the backplates is. Would unscrewing the existing connections and dropping in a resistor leg be the way to go?

Seems like we wouldn't want to solder directly on the capsule.

Sorry if this has been answered already - just spent over an hour and a half reading this thread with no luck.

Thank you!
 

shabtek

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yes avoid soldering near capsule. 1 little splash of flux can ruin your day
either connect them together down below the capsule mount plate and sleeve/heatshrink or make a jumper with extant ring terminals/wire (you take risk with screwdriver near capsule so be careful)
 

Trickyricky

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Alright, well, nobody asked for this, but I had more time at the studio tonight to test, and I was alone...

So THIS HAPPENED. Forgive me, I have written an idiot song.

All parts recorded with the C12 clone, into a 1073DPX, no EQ. Acc git and vocal into LA-2A (2-4dB reduction).

A bit of Lexicon 408 and then whole thing into the Smart C1. NO EQ.

Im really pleased with the way the mic sounds! My idiot voice on the other hand...
Sounds great! Congrats on your build! Are you gonna experiment with changing any of the capacitor values?
 

andYz00m

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Sounds great! Congrats on your build! Are you gonna experiment with changing any of the capacitor values?
I dont think I need to, as pairing the other head basket (one with double layer that originally came with the Bad Axx) brought the resonance down. Also pairing with a different preamp made it sound like I was expecting.

What caps are swap-able and what are the impacts of those changes?
 

mrgrooves666

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I dont think I need to, as pairing the other head basket (one with double layer that originally came with the Bad Axx) brought the resonance down. Also pairing with a different preamp made it sound like I was expecting.

What caps are swap-able and what are the impacts of those changes?
The maiku k12 indeed has isolated backplates, so you need to tie em up with the c12 build. I did it at the capsule, you can also join at the backplate pin in pcb.
Output cap can be changed from stock .5 to 1-2uf, supposedly more bass, less treble/transient response. I'm yet to try it as I really like how mine is as is with TC12 capsule.
 
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andYz00m

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The maiku k12 indeed has isolated backplates, so you need to tie em up with the c12 build. I did it at the capsule, you can also join at the backplate pin in pcb.
Output cap can be changed from stock .5 to 1-2uf, supposedly more bass, less treble/transient response. I'm yet to try it as I really like how mine is as is with TC12 capsule.
I had a 1uf cap from Chunger but went with a Solen .5uf cap. Sounds great. Theres plenty of low end and the high frequency response is smooth and lovely. :)
 

mrgrooves666

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I had a 1uf cap from Chunger but went with a Solen .5uf cap. Sounds great. Theres plenty of low end and the high frequency response is smooth and lovely. :)
Agree, I have not bother trying with 1uf. Very satisfied with how it sounds as is. Maybe later :)
 

cariocaman85

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I have good quality mains transformers with dual secondaries (200v and 10v) input is 110/220v
Thanks for the info!
Are they the same size? Do they fit as a direct replacement in the psu box?

In that case I might be interested!
 

Nen'O

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Here are some photos of the Bad Aax version. Worst name ever :LOL:, but a decent and afforable donor. The mic is surprisingly heavy: 800g / 28oz, with a 2.16mm thick brass tube. Anyone else have one of these?
Hi,
I got exactly the same version of T-11A with Psvane tube. In what direction did you go with your mod? I'm thinking to upgrade capsule to Maiku K12, leave stock PCB, take out C6,C7,C9 & C10, replace C8 with PIO 1uF 250v and C4 1000 pf Rel-Cap RT polystyrene film. Change Z5 to a 61v Zener from a 72 volt zener. Change the tube to a 6072 or a very good 12AT7. For now I'll leave stock trafo but in future might upgrade it to BV 11 5:1 ratio.
Any advices are welcome.

Cheers
 
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Hi,
I got exactly the same version of T-11A with Psvane tube. In what direction did you go with your mod? I'm thinking to upgrade capsule to Maiku K12, leave stock PCB, take out C6,C7,C9 & C10, replace C8 with PIO 1uF 250v and C4 1000 pf Rel-Cap RT polystyrene film. Change Z5 to a 61v Zener from a 72 volt zener. Change the tube to a 6072 or a very good 12AT7. For now I'll leave stock trafo but in future might upgrade it to BV 11 5:1 ratio.
Any advices are welcome.

Cheers
I originally bought two of the Bad Aax mics to use as donors for the Matador/Chunger clone, but then I ordered a pair of Chunger's HT-11A bodies, which arrived yesterday. 😎
So I'll eventually be trying out some of the classic mods on the Bad Aax pair.
 

Nen'O

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I originally bought two of the Bad Aax mics to use as donors for the Matador/Chunger clone, but then I ordered a pair of Chunger's HT-11A bodies, which arrived yesterday. 😎
So I'll eventually be trying out some of the classic mods on the Bad Aax pair.
Same here, I got a pair of BadAxx too. Very decent mic for that money, wish I looked at it earlier. Keep us updated with moods.

Cheers
 
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andYz00m

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Same here, I got a pair of BadAxx too. Very decent mic for that money, wish I looked at it earlier. Keep us updated with moods.

Cheers
Honestly, the stock BadAxx was surprisingly lovely. I actually used it on some real sessions while I was waiting for the parts to do my mod.

Completely different sound to the new clone mic, but it sounded great.
 

Nen'O

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Those new BadAxx's indeed sound very usable right out of the box... looks like someone from manufacturing in China is reading these mod forums.
New Psvane tubes that comes with mic are not garbage at all when used in right application.
 

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vmanj

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I tried to make an bias c12, but a little differently, as in u67.
It turned out to be easier (only changed the polarity of the heating), because. no need to conduct -1V bias from the power supply with an additional wire ...
 

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DT_Music

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Mar 16, 2018
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Thank you all for your help. I'm a bit emberassed over my last question. However, I have another,

Which pinouts are supposed to be wired with the thicker gauge in the tube mic cable? I assume the heater wire is one of them. If so, what is the other? There are 5 x 26 gauge and 2 x 20 gauge wires in the Gotham cable I am using

.Thanks you for your time.

Pin 1 = B+. ?
Pin 2 = heater. 20g
Pin 3 = pattern ?
pin 4 = bias ?
pin 5 = audio - 26g
pin 6 = audio + 26g
pin 7 = ground 26g

Is there any follow up on this? Maybe a clear explanation of which pins should have the 20g wires could be added to the original posts?
 
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