Melodeath00
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 7, 2012
- Messages
- 416
Matador said:You can heat telfon wire all day with a soldering iron and not effect it: that's why it costs more than PVC insulated wire (which "shrinks away" as it's heated, making the stripped section twice as long as you cut it).
Hey maybe I wouldn't mind that actually. It was sort of a nightmare trying to strip that 28 gauge wire for the capsule connections. I need to find a smaller wire stripper. Mine only goes down to 22 or so. I had to redo a couple of weak connections caused by bad stripping that caused physical breakage at the connection points. Actually, I got a couple of strands of silver threaded through my thumb while trying to strip the wires. That wasn't fun having to pull out of my skin.
Matador said:This is the side of the board opposite to the tube socket. The heater trace runs from the middle pad here up to the heaters. This means that if the non-tube socket side "middle pad" is soldered to the main PCB you are good to go for the heater + connection.
The ground connections however are on the socket side. So soldering the side opposite to the socket (on the left and right) only provides mechanical strength with no electrical connection. You must solder the pads on the socket side on the left and/or right.
If you left the middle pad unsoldered on the socket side (under the socket) it's fine: it's just for mechanical strength.
I would go back and resolder all pads with the exception of the middle one under the tube socket and you should be good to go.
I'm definitely good on the heater. I will verify the underside pads tonight, although I suspect I "accidentally" have them connected on the left side. Thanks!