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Aaaaahhhh.......think I gotcha now!
You said the 24v led went off and the fuse wasn´t broken,that´s why I thought the voltage came back somehow.

O.K.,what you can do is check the 24vdc regulator,from what I remember it is an LM350,yes?

First check if continuity from the M3 screw that holds the reg in place to the metall plate around it (on the reg,not the floorbox metal).
What do you get?
There should be no short or zero ohms readings here (same on all regulators btw.),if yes then you might have overtightened it and damaged the silicone foil behind which must act as on isolator and thermal transfer part.Or the pastic ring surounding the screw is broken.Or both,hahaha......

If this is o.k. then let´s check through the 24v circuit at the basic points:

1.:Set dmm to ac reading.Measure if the transformer is giving you 24vac (ca.27 to 28vac unloaded).

2.:Set dmm to dc reading now.Check the rectified dc voltage prior to the LM350 at its input.For this attach the black probe to a 0vdc point,not safety earth.Measure the input of the regulator on pin 3 (seen from front it is the right pin).You should have a rectified dc voltage here roughly around +33 to 39vdc here.

3.:Check its output at pin 2 which is the middle pin.Should be in the +24vdc area,depends on the trim pot setting.

Up to here so far,please report back.
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Your extender cable question:

You can  do them yourself:Get a 51x protoboard and a card edge connector (18 pin version)
from Volker (silent arts) in Berlin or maybe Cemal (sahib) in Glasgow has them too.
Just wire them up,it takes just some minutes,refer to the pinout table for the 51x standard,can be found on the last page of Jeff´s floorbox build manual.
I did three of them meanwhile,the advantage is that you can make them as long as needed and attach different plugs if you want,e.g. I did one version with 4mm banana jacks,one with a 7pin xlr connector etc.

Best regards,

Udo.
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Edit:Here´s a LM350T pinout for your orientation.
 

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kante1603 said:
O.K.,what you can do is check the 24vdc regulator,from what I remember it is an LM350,yes?

First check if continuity from the M3 screw that holds the reg in place to the metall plate around it (on the reg,not the floorbox metal).
What do you get?
There should be no short or zero ohms readings here (same on all regulators btw.),if yes then you might have overtightened it and damaged the silicone foil behind which must act as on isolator and thermal transfer part.Or the pastic ring surounding the screw is broken.Or both,hahaha......

Checked it. No continuity.

kante1603 said:
If this is o.k. then let´s check through the 24v circuit at the basic points:

1.:Set dmm to ac reading.Measure if the transformer is giving you 24vac (ca.27 to 28vac unloaded).

Checked it. ~26VAC or something like that, seems fine.

kante1603 said:
2.:Set dmm to dc reading now.Check the rectified dc voltage prior to the LM350 at its input.For this attach the black probe to a 0vdc point,not safety earth.Measure the input of the regulator on pin 3 (seen from front it is the right pin).You should have a rectified dc voltage here roughly around +33 to 39vdc here.

3.:Check its output at pin 2 which is the middle pin.Should be in the +24vdc area,depends on the trim pot setting.

Here is where my lack of knowledge comes into play.  ::) Where do I find a 0VDC point? CHASSIS or GND on the output or something like that? Just want to avoid messing it up.

I'll look into that extender option, thanks for the tip!
 
Hi,

looks good so far,no continuity between regulator metal and chassis/Housing/screw is correct as it should be.
Around 26 vac from the transformer is correct.

Now for the 0v reference point:Easy one,it´s the GND point,not the Chassis (this is connected to the mains safety earth).
So same point you used to confirm your dc rails are working.GND is the PSU Ground and is generated on the pcb itself.
There are many of them to find,look at the schematic and try to understand.

So next steps is the regulator check as I described before.Again,be careful,you have an open unit carrying mains voltage!

Tell us what you get then,

Udo.
 
Excellent, I'll try it when I'm back in the studio again, just popped in for a quick test run today.

I looked at the schematics now, too (http://www.classicapi.com/catalog/images/FB-build/Classic_GDIY51PSU-V2%20Rev_A.1_schematic.pdf)

I'd love to learn how to read these properly, so if I look at the one for the +V#2 DC, am I right to assume that everything on the lower horizontal line is 0VDC? So any of these points would do? Also, looking at the first page, the ⏚ would be 0V (ground) in this case and the "fork" symbol would be chassis ground?
 
Yep!you got it ;)
Higher (or the more positive) is on top,bottom shows the gnd reference voltage.
That's why it is reversed in the drawings for the negative rails.

Now if you want to check back on the pcb you'll find all these points are connected to each other.
Cool,no?
So sometimes it's easier to measure on a part that has long legs.......no,I didn't mean it that way ;D
...to attach a crocodile clamp of course

Have fun,

Udo.
 
kante1603 said:
2.:Set dmm to dc reading now.Check the rectified dc voltage prior to the LM350 at its input.For this attach the black probe to a 0vdc point,not safety earth.Measure the input of the regulator on pin 3 (seen from front it is the right pin).You should have a rectified dc voltage here roughly around +33 to 39vdc here.

3.:Check its output at pin 2 which is the middle pin.Should be in the +24vdc area,depends on the trim pot setting.

Up to here so far,please report back.

Alright, it took a few days until I had time to measure this but now I'm back on track. So the results:

Pin 3: Around +34VDC
Pin 2: +24.5VDC

So that seems normal. I then checked continuity between some points after looking at the schedule.  :D
Can't say I got any wiser though. Checked between F4 and +V#2DC - working. Checked Pin 2 of the regulator to +V#2DC - working. Checked the fuse again of course - working. I also checked the polarity of C18, C20 and C21 - all correct. I unplugged the cable from +V#2DC to make sure it wasn't shorted, but still no +24V. Checked polarity on CR5 and CR6, no problem there.

How do I proceed?

EDIT: Oh, forgot to add: I checked the gar2520 DOA in the preamp I tested. No wonder weird stuff was happening: I mixed up Q7 and Q8. Classic...
 
tgs said:
Alright, it took a few days until I had time to measure this but now I'm back on track. So the results:

Pin 3: Around +34VDC
Pin 2: +24.5VDC

So that seems normal.
No,that´s perfect! ;D
You´re damn close.......
tgs said:
I then checked continuity between some points after looking at the schedule.  :D
Can't say I got any wiser though. Checked between F4 and +V#2DC - working. Checked Pin 2 of the regulator to +V#2DC - working. Checked the fuse again of course - working. I also checked the polarity of C18, C20 and C21 - all correct. I unplugged the cable from +V#2DC to make sure it wasn't shorted, but still no +24V. Checked polarity on CR5 and CR6, no problem there.

How do I proceed?
Better track where the +24vdc disappear:
DMM set to vdc,black probe to 0v (e.g. on the screw header where the rails go off to the cable).
Now the voltage must stay around +24vdc at the following points:

1.:At R5 in junction with CR6

2:At positive side of C21 and the upper side of C19

3.:The fuse on both sides!

4.:The header +V#2 DC itsself.

5.:Top of R9.

Check where the voltage disappears,the fault will be right here or before this point.
Very good the reg is working,so it must be something ridiculous.Like a cold joint or-even better-a forgotten solder joint at the screw header.
Tell us what you get.

If you are still stuck you should post some clear pics of both top and bottom of the pcb.



tgs said:
EDIT: Oh, forgot to add: I checked the gar2520 DOA in the preamp I tested. No wonder weird stuff was happening: I mixed up Q7 and Q8. Classic...
Yes (although I´m lucky it never happened to me,have done around 60 of them so far,hahahaha....knock on wood!) ;)

Cheers,

Udo.
 
Great! I'll measure all this tomorrow, just came back from a gig so I'm totally exhausted.  :)

Just one question: Since I'll need to take the bottom plate out to measure the caps, I'll have to have the toroid loose. Is it safe to have it laying loose on the table, and do I need to keep it clear of the side heatsink walls or something? Just want to avoid shorting something.

Oh, and the R5/CR6 junction, that would be on the anode side of CR6?
 
Having the toroid loose on the table worked for me just the other day when I had to do the same, though I double checked all cables and tightened all screws sligthly at the connectors before powering up.
 
tgs said:
Great! I'll measure all this tomorrow, just came back from a gig so I'm totally exhausted.  :)

Just one question: Since I'll need to take the bottom plate out to measure the caps, I'll have to have the toroid loose. Is it safe to have it laying loose on the table, and do I need to keep it clear of the side heatsink walls or something? Just want to avoid shorting something.
Not too dangerous,don't know the transformer but I think it is sealed with plastic as standard.If unsure just lay it in something non-conductive like plastic,cardboard,newspaper etc.,whatever you have handy.
tgs said:
Oh, and the R5/CR6 junction, that would be on the anode side of CR6?
No,cathode (the ring marker on the diode).

If you want to do the search shorter without opening/unscrewing the whole stuff just start at  point 3 and measure the fuse sides first.If both do have the voltage then the fault must be after it.

Best,

Udo.
 
Alright, so... I took the bottom plate out yesterday but didn't measure. What did I do? Looked at the solder points (that I'd already gone over with the iron when the problem first occured). Scraped a little bit with my thumb nail and then left it.

Turned the supply on this morning and decided to measure just the last three from the top before flipping it over. Fuse, both sides, working. Top of R9, working. Header, working. LED? Back on. Eehm... I must have a magic thumbnail I guess.  ;D

I hope it will stay working now but I'll definitely keep a close eye on it, but now I know some important points where to measure. Just tried the VP312DI with a different DOA now and it seems to be working perfectly as well.

Thanks for your help, Udo!!
 
:mad:

Finally got round to wiring up my LEDs on my GDIY51XPSU

the problem is... I followed Chunger's wiring. I.e. joining the grounds on the LEDs and then sending them to the ground on the PCB (screw etc).

Bought the right resistors. Soldered them to the positives on all the LEDs and connected them correctly to those solder points on the fuse holders.

Fired her up.

ONLY the 16+ 24+ and 48+ are glowing.

The 16- and the 24- AREN't!

Any ideas where I may be going wrong here boys?

I do know, that when I sent it to the rack I thought I began smelling something burning so I bloody switched it off sharpish.

Thing is, I disconnected all the LEDs again, and the damned thing is working perfectly on all rails as it was before.

Help.



 
Duh! Thanks guys, problem solved.

The - 24 has a 2k2 resistor in it just like the +24 yet is glowing slightly dimmer.

Any reason for this?
 
Although it may look the same, the LED could have higher forward current. Or you may think you have the same resistor, it could be higher in value.
 

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