op amp upgrade suggestions for 5532 and 5534

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opa2134 for 5532 and opa134 for 5534. For the OPA parts you usually use this designation:

OPA 2(number of amps) 134(model)

so 2134 is 2 opamps of the 134 model.

the 134 can drive slightly more than the 604 in my testing.

I like the 134 series better than the 604. the 604 can sound honky in certain circuits where the 134 has always sounded the same to me. It's much brighter than the 5532 but the mids are slightly scooped in the 134. so you get better highs but worse mids, that is why the 5532 is so beloved in most apps because the mids are very clear and detailed.

I used 5532s in class A in all buffer applications and 2134s in my EQ applications because of the gyrator's need for fast opamps.

It's also a WHOLE LOT easier to swap in a FET input opamp(opa134, opa604) with success than swapping a BJT input opamp into something designed for a FET input. Check out the threads on this for the reasons.. hint: BJT input current can cause DC offset on the outputs.. Jfets don't do this nearly as much..
 
[quote author="Brian Roth"]In the manual for the MCI JH-636 desk, there is a spec for a loaded desk of 12,000 BTU/hour! That means a one-ton AC unit is required just for the waste heat!!
Speaking of Neve 51xx desks...do you have manuals for one? How about any 4 pole Dialistat switches?
Bri[/quote]

Bri,
Yes, you could say a real HOT console!. Installed a 24 ch 5116 Neve in a Protools/Logic production room awhile ago and had to redo the AC ducting once the console was brought up. The Kings supply gets toasty too.
The heat is the major problem causer in all that series. If left up 24/7
the heat rise pulls any dust, smoke , etc up thru the modules and contaminates the switches and dries out the blue phillips caps.
I have a couple of the 51XX Series books here at home in MA and a couple others down at the workspace in Phila.
Most of the schematics are in bluprint size. What do you need?
Have quite a few of the various push button assms. but no rotaries.
The most replaced switch is the dpdt and 4pdt on/off, EQ, and a couple of others that have the indicating LED dropping resistor immediatly below the switch.

Bill
 
I will add that the 2134's was probably the top contender to the 5532's when I was testing for upgrades.

Svart is right about the (2)604's...

Kevin
 
They(604 series) can sound great but they can sound terrible. I never figured out what made them sound bad but it was definately certain circuits that did this, maybe driving too much load? I swapped them out and never looked back.
 
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