48V won't be fabulously more efficient than 12V.
If you just want something like 120VAC, the simple flip-flop buttachunk points to will "work".
I do not believe the author has tried this at the claimed 300W level. 2N3055 gain falls badly at 4A, and you have trouble getting 50W this way. Also I suspect R1 R2 eat a lot of power and fry. A 1,000W inverter is a much more impressive beast.
Output is Square Wave. You can tune the ratio for 160V Peak to power "120V rms Sine" DC rectifiers, or to 120V peak to power lamps, but NOT both types of loads at the same time.
If you are running batteries for low audio noise, this Square Wave is self defeating.
I know you are a DIY guy, but a computer UPS will give some simulation of a wall output, with a battery, and a charger, all in a pre-designed warrantied package.
The cheap UPSes are Square Wave. They do OK for PC power supplies, usually. They burn-up 120V lamps. They are incredibly nasty for audio.
Better UPSes use a step-wave which gives your 160V peak for DC rectifiers, but has enough off-time that thermal loads (lamps) feel about 120V rms.
"True Sine" UPSes are expensive, and often the sine's flaws are still big audio hash.
To make a good clean SINE wave, use a 60Hz Sine oscillator and a big audio power amp. Since you have 48VDC, this will be a custom. A switch-mode audio amp is not a simple DIY job, I'd stick with linear which means ~~75% efficiency at best (lightly clipped). Given 48VDC you can make 15V sine AC, step-up to 120V. For 3A at 120V (360 Watts!), you need 24 Amps at 15V, or a 0.625 ohm load. Basically a 30 Watt 8 ohm amp, but the output and driver stage 13 times fatter.
Or to avoid needing an incredible coupling cap, two 48VDC amps in Bridge (watch the low DC resistance of a transformer), 30V 12 Amps output to step-up. Same number of output devices (lots).
Or use a 60VAC CT winding with a "vacuum tube push-pull" plan, except with sand-state.
Megawatt utility companies have spoiled us. Making "small" like 300W of good AC is NOT easy.