P&G Fader knob 3D print

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Paul

I recently had some module mounting brackets 3D printed in China - very successful, but a big learning curve

I have always used Sketchup for 3D design but it's not that easy to export from the free version of Sketchup to a format that 3D printers can work with

For panel design, Front Panel Designer works well, but it's 2D only. I ended up working out the project in Sketchup and translating the file for the 3D print.

I recreated the front panel in FPD and imported the logo (a TrueType font) as an HPGL file. That worked well for the panel makers

There are some 3D scanning tools for the iPhone but you'll need to do some cleanup of the file before printing it. As the knobs are relatively small it might be more successful to send it out - or send a number of knobs out - for hi-res scanning & cleanup and using those scans for 3D printing

Nick Froome
 
No It's a lot of small din plugs in a DIY trench. I think someone made a small mobile mixer from some spare channels many years ago from what ever MDF was called then and metal and painted black. I want to keep it all tube so need new bigger trench and sloping back to put in all the transformers and tubes etc. A bit like the Sphere one on instagram, keep kind of classic Siemens/Telefunken looking.
[It's a lot of small din plugs in a DIY trench] -- Can you either explain to me or show some pictures of what a -- TRENCH -- is??? I have a vague possible idea of what this term means, but I really have no idea what a -- TRENCH -- is on a mixing console. THANKS!!!

/
 
For smoother arcs and top surfaces of printed caps/knobs, I set to lowest printing layer height. Then sandpaper the top surface and finally spray matt. End result looks better this way, but wouldn't do on a dozen+ caps/knobs.
 
[It's a lot of small din plugs in a DIY trench] -- Can you either explain to me or show some pictures of what a -- TRENCH -- is??? I have a vague possible idea of what this term means, but I really have no idea what a -- TRENCH -- is on a mixing console. THANKS!!!

/

Yes of course, it's an overstated metaphor for a gap. It isn't a First World War line of defence in the mud it's just a few inches in height and width and 10 typical channels long about 19 - 20". There are no meters, just the backs of the vintage 20 pin connectors with some sporadic bell wire and tag board. On the back and the sides of this gully or canyon if you will, there are double the amount of din plugs for dreadful low level, parallel direct out and a 12V socket fajitas, 220vdc sockets and a ground socket.
It's filthy dirty and ugly. Which is why I referred to it as a trench I think, which is a shame as the channels are quite something as once they are in a new home and are cleaned, recapped and refitted with fresh E283CC tubes etc. she'll be a beauty.
In this state it could only have been made by a drunken Reeperbahn roadie, as no self respecting, mobile recordist would be seen dead with it.
 
Yes of course, it's an overstated metaphor for a gap. It isn't a First World War line of defence in the mud it's just a few inches in height and width and 10 typical channels long about 19 - 20". There are no meters, just the backs of the vintage 20 pin connectors with some sporadic bell wire and tag board. On the back and the sides of this gully or canyon if you will, there are double the amount of din plugs for dreadful low level, parallel direct out and a 12V socket fajitas, 220vdc sockets and a ground socket.
It's filthy dirty and ugly. Which is why I referred to it as a trench I think, which is a shame as the channels are quite something as once they are in a new home and are cleaned, recapped and refitted with fresh E283CC tubes etc. she'll be a beauty.
In this state it could only have been made by a drunken Reeperbahn roadie, as no self respecting, mobile recordist would be seen dead with it.
[it's an overstated metaphor for a gap] -- Is it possible for you to post a couple of clear, well-lit photos of this??? THANKS!!!.....

/
 
I don't actually have a printer / know how to at all. I usually go through Treatstock to find a local-ish printer to support. It's a cool site.
gotcha- you can still import an STL into orcaslicer, add the text as needed, and export the STL. I do this a lot to fix broken STL meshes, or make simple modifications on bigger prints when i dont have a STEP file, as working on large meshes in fusion is computationally intense to put it mildly. doing it in the slicer is probably a lot easier than learning an entire CAD workflow for one simple task. then again, learning something like fusion is pretty darn useful....
 
gotcha- you can still import an STL into orcaslicer, add the text as needed, and export the STL. I do this a lot to fix broken STL meshes, or make simple modifications on bigger prints when i dont have a STEP file, as working on large meshes in fusion is computationally intense to put it mildly. doing it in the slicer is probably a lot easier than learning an entire CAD workflow for one simple task. then again, learning something like fusion is pretty darn useful....
Gonna check this out! Thanks for the rec. I have very amateur CAD experience but it's something I've been meaning to get better at. I tried out FreeCAD and Fusion in the past. Anytime I've needed "CAD work," I draw it up in either Adobe Illustrator or EAGLE lol...
 
[...] I tried out FreeCAD and Fusion in the past. [...]

FreeCAD has improved quite a bit with versions 1.0 (current) and 1.1 (upcoming). I don't think a ShapeString can be parameterized (using variables for the channel), but have read that it's possible to change the number with a Python command. That's probably easier than converting the knob to OpenSCAD, where these customizations are natural.
 
gotcha- you can still import an STL into orcaslicer, add the text as needed, and export the STL. I do this a lot to fix broken STL meshes, or make simple modifications on bigger prints when i dont have a STEP file, as working on large meshes in fusion is computationally intense to put it mildly. doing it in the slicer is probably a lot easier than learning an entire CAD workflow for one simple task. then again, learning something like fusion is pretty darn useful....
I did not know you could do that with orca slicer. Very handy because it means you can tweak someone else's hard work to your need :rolleyes:

Cheers

Ian
 
I expect there are quite a number of similar 'classic' mechanical parts for which no proper drawings exist. One route forward would be the get them 3D scanned which should create a base line shape. Then all that then needs adding is the aperture for the attachment to the electronic component (fader. knob etc). I know 3D scanners exist but I have zero experience of them. Maybe someone here has the capability or access to it?
.....

Cheers

Ian
Don't know if this helps - but this company https://midlands3d.com/. is owned by a ex colleague of mine from computer days. The website has a whole stack of FAQs and knowledge documents in the About us tab - then Knowledge base
He is based up in Stone but you will find him at track meets as he is a total Petrolhead
You can get an instant quote by uploading OBJ, STL or STEP files. The FAQ explains some of the intricacies
He also does scanning and reverse engineering
 
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