P2P Pultec 50hz noise help

GroupDIY Audio Forum

Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
A note on this: The idea is not to shield the PT as that would require an entire steel case around it. The idea is to use the steel to shield the parts that are being affected by the PT's magnetic field. In your case, I would start with the capacitors you mentioned as contributing to the hum. I just posted about this on another thread here recently. In that case, the DUT was a commercially made "Pultec inspired" Eq, a good one. I will mention again that you need to be extremely careful moving a piece of conductive metal around inside a chassis where High Voltage is present (Note: the steel does NOT need to be connected to ground, however...the shielding comes from absorbing/disrupting the magnetic field via the ferrous properties of the steel, not draining it off to 0v). In cases where there is not a lot of room inside (although you have plenty) and also to try and narrow down what's being affected, I have sometimes just used a steel tool that's ready-to-hand, like a large pliers or an adjustable wrench to hold near various parts and see/hear if the noise comes down. Once you identify the area, you can come up with a way to do a permanent shield, like mounting an angle bracket to the floor of the device.
One more thing: Have you tested this with the steel lid screwed firmly in place, or have you been waiting to fix the issue before you close it up? Hint...the lid may fix the problem...

Thanks Ike! I've tested both with lid on and off. Result is the same either way so far. I will try your suggestion about using a steel tool near the components. Will definitely make sure it has a non-conductive grip (sometimes I wrap the grip in electric tape as an extra layer of protection too - so I can do that here) and keep my left hand in my pocket.
 
Oh wow, you're right. This guy had my EXACT problem:

https://groupdiy.com/threads/pultec-clone-build-hum.64557/post-1182106

Is there a way to check if my interstage has an internal screen pin? (Sorry I don't really know what that is) Or, more importantly, is there a way to check that it is connected correctly with a DMM? If not, is there a way to "create" the necessary connection, or do I just need to get a different transformer? (That would be a bummer - I got 2 of these and they weren't cheap).

Attached is the transformer, I used.

Edit: Is the pin 9 ground termination the internal screen pin? If so, is there a way to check that it is doing what it is supposed to inside the transformer? i.e. that there isn't a broken connection internally.

s-l1600.jpg
 
Last edited:
Oh wow, you're right. This guy had my EXACT problem:

https://groupdiy.com/threads/pultec-clone-build-hum.64557/post-1182106

Is there a way to check if my interstage has an internal screen pin? (Sorry I don't really know what that is) Or, more importantly, is there a way to check that it is connected correctly with a DMM? If not, is there a way to "create" the necessary connection, or do I just need to get a different transformer? (That would be a bummer - I got 2 of these and they weren't cheap).
If you look at the picture you posted it says pin 9 ground. That should be the internal screen connection.

Cheers

Ian
 
Trying to make sense of that ground scheme in the animated layout is a little difficult ..

Here is a better picture of the ground layout. I sort of did a mix of the first picture and this one for the build, because I used 3 cap cans like the first pic (and like vintage units) and also used the CM-217 like the first pic. As far as the ground layout, I followed this one though. As shown, I connected the cap can on the lower left to a ground lug as shown here. I wonder if it should just connect to the cap can itself instead.

Only difference from the ground layout from the below pic that I can think of is that I connected the in and out xlrs to ground via pin 1 of the output xls, instead of pin 1 of the input xlr. That doesn't seem like it should make a difference though.

Screenshot 2024-12-30 at 10.40.03 PM.png
 
Last edited:
Have you contacted Chris Preston, owner of Vintage Windings to see if has any ideas/suggestions? He's a good guy and also a DIYer at times.

Bri
I sent him an email, but haven’t gotten a response yet. It’s been less than 24 hours though, so that’s pretty reasonable that he wouldn’t have responded yet.

I did test another vintage winding VW-29 I haven’t used yet and on that one pin 9 has continuity to the mounting screws.
 
Per the wiring layout, on the interstage transformer the secondary is grounded together with the in/out xlrs, but the shield pin is grounded elsewhere on the chassis. Could that be the source of a ground loop and the problem?
 
Have you contacted Chris Preston, owner of Vintage Windings to see if has any ideas/suggestions? He's a good guy and also a DIYer at times.

Bri

From Chris Preston:

"The original 29 that I reverse engineered did not have a screen and its catalog listing does not specify one. The core is grounded. I have sold quite a few of those with no mention from anyone. I think what I'll do is wind one with a screen and I'll send it along so you can give it a try. Give me a few days."

Super generous guy. I guess the core being grounded is different from a screen. Anyone know what the difference is?

Edit: Looks like the Sowter 9930, the recommended modern replacement for the HS-29 in the BOM, has an "internal electroststic shield." I'm guessing that is the same thing as the screen we are talking about. If so, maybe that's why this issue isn't super common if most people on this build are using the sowter.
 
Last edited:
Could that be the source of a ground loop and the problem?
It's still a bit confusing to decipher the layout. I looked for a more detailed drawing but can't find one. Is that available? Almost looks like the idea of providing one was abandoned looking at the AV site.
If there are multiple grounds along the chassis, I wouldn't expect miracles but it can be quite good from my experience. I'd be surprised if DC heaters would help tbh.
Here is something I ran across as well. Not sure if it would be relevant to your situation.
https://groupdiy.com/threads/don-au...midrange-eq-chassis.82264/page-2#post-1072240
 
I sent him an email, but haven’t gotten a response yet. It’s been less than 24 hours though, so that’s pretty reasonable that he wouldn’t have responded yet.

I did test another vintage winding VW-29 I haven’t used yet and on that one pin 9 has continuity to the mounting screws.
This isn't the best time of year to expect a fast response... Edit: But I see you got one anyway! Nice!
 
Back
Top