PCB Assembly Aid

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ruffrecords

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Nov 10, 2006
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Location
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I have always wanted one of these but I cannot justify the expense:

KaiserTech

I was reminded of them when watching one of the Mend It Mark videos - he has an ancient one. There are plenty of much cheaper ones on the market but they all lack the foam rubber which is the key. You can fit all the components, close down the lid and they are all held firmly while you turn it over and solder them.

It occurred to me that we could probably build one using standard aluminium extrusion. It does not need to be too big either - I mostly build 3U and 6U Eurocard PCBs. I could probably even 3D print a plastic mounting to fit a standard Eurocard PCB to it.

Maybe we could base it on this much cheaper Kaisertech model: Kaisertech Quick

Edit: better link to Quick model: Large Quick

Cheers

Ian
 
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I’ve had a few of the large red ones in my possession over the years from when I used to build guitar pedal PCBs for small scale manufacturing. Honestly, worth every penny especially when populating 20~ small PCBs at a time. I still have one in storage and bust it out occasionally when I need to work on several boards.
 
You can fit all the components, close down the lid and they are all held firmly while you turn it over and solder them.
Time ago I had a look at this one
https://www.ideal-tek.com/prodotti.php?m=search&f=5&c=circuit-board-holders&l=3&c94=PCB Holders
neither cheap...

But it should save so many time for small production TH manual soldering.

So far I find an alternative and very cheap way to assemble TH, usually I have more PCB than needed (due to MOC), and I use one as soldering guide/holder since it have the same fixing hole pattern than the one to be populated.
-insert all component of same height
-fit the spare pcb on the top/component side, all component in sandwich.
-use screw/bolt the tight the two pcbs
-flip the assembly and solder...

I try once with foam, but a bad one that melt easy, which lead to stick at component that get hot like small resistor.
Cardboard help more or less, until I get a massive soldering session that justify searching for appropriate and thick foam that can hold various height components at once
 
I fit long standoffs at four corners to create enough space underneath PCB for dangling component leads and solder at least one lead per component from the top side (resistors, diodes, small caps) before flipping the board around to solder at ease from underside.
 
I fit long standoffs at four corners to create enough space underneath PCB for dangling component leads and solder at least one lead per component from the top side (resistors, diodes, small caps) before flipping the board around to solder at ease from underside.
THat will work for many boards and most components but I had a backplane PCB that held about 50 or so two and three pin Moles connectors whcih cannot be soldered from the top. In the end I glued the connectors in place so I could later turn it over and solder the lot.

Cheers

Ian
 
THat will work for many boards and most components but I had a backplane PCB that held about 50 or so two and three pin Moles connectors whcih cannot be soldered from the top. In the end I glued the connectors in place so I could later turn it over and solder the lot.

Cheers

Ian

If the molex connectors are on the edge of the board, you can use small and cheap alligator clips to to hold them together before turn over the board. Once you solder one pin you can detach the clip.
 
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