PCB Assembly Aid

[ruffrecords]

I have always wanted one of these but I cannot justify the expense:

KaiserTech

I was reminded of them when watching one of the Mend It Mark videos - he has an ancient one. There are plenty of much cheaper ones on the market but they all lack the foam rubber which is the key. You can fit all the components, close down the lid and they are all held firmly while you turn it over and solder them.

It occurred to me that we could probably build one using standard aluminium extrusion. It does not need to be too big either - I mostly build 3U and 6U Eurocard PCBs. I could probably even 3D print a plastic mounting to fit a standard Eurocard PCB to it.

Maybe we could base it on this much cheaper Kaisertech model: Kaisertech Quick

Edit: better link to Quick model: Large Quick

Cheers

Ian

 

[zzzzz]

I’ve had a few of the large red ones in my possession over the years from when I used to build guitar pedal PCBs for small scale manufacturing. Honestly, worth every penny especially when populating 20~ small PCBs at a time. I still have one in storage and bust it out occasionally when I need to work on several boards.

 

[zamproject]

You can fit all the components, close down the lid and they are all held firmly while you turn it over and solder them.

Time ago I had a look at this one
https://www.ideal-tek.com/prodotti.php?m=search&f=5&c=circuit-board-holders&l=3&c94=PCB Holders
neither cheap...

But it should save so many time for small production TH manual soldering.

So far I find an alternative and very cheap way to assemble TH, usually I have more PCB than needed (due to MOC), and I use one as soldering guide/holder since it have the same fixing hole pattern than the one to be populated.
-insert all component of same height
-fit the spare pcb on the top/component side, all component in sandwich.
-use screw/bolt the tight the two pcbs
-flip the assembly and solder...

I try once with foam, but a bad one that melt easy, which lead to stick at component that get hot like small resistor.
Cardboard help more or less, until I get a massive soldering session that justify searching for appropriate and thick foam that can hold various height components at once

 

[Script]

I fit long standoffs at four corners to create enough space underneath PCB for dangling component leads and solder at least one lead per component from the top side (resistors, diodes, small caps) before flipping the board around to solder at ease from underside.

 

[ruffrecords]

I fit long standoffs at four corners to create enough space underneath PCB for dangling component leads and solder at least one lead per component from the top side (resistors, diodes, small caps) before flipping the board around to solder at ease from underside.

THat will work for many boards and most components but I had a backplane PCB that held about 50 or so two and three pin Moles connectors whcih cannot be soldered from the top. In the end I glued the connectors in place so I could later turn it over and solder the lot.

Cheers

Ian

 

[warpie]

THat will work for many boards and most components but I had a backplane PCB that held about 50 or so two and three pin Moles connectors whcih cannot be soldered from the top. In the end I glued the connectors in place so I could later turn it over and solder the lot.

Cheers

Ian

If the molex connectors are on the edge of the board, you can use small and cheap alligator clips to to hold them together before turn over the board. Once you solder one pin you can detach the clip.

 

[ruffrecords]

If the molex connectors are on the edge of the board, you can use small and cheap alligator clips to to hold them together before turn over the board. Once you solder one pin you can detach the clip.

Nice idea. Unfortunately they span the entire width of the PCB.

Cheers

Ian

 

[Quantum J Audio]

I have always wanted one of these but I cannot justify the expense:

KaiserTech

Very useful. It looks really well engineered, but wow that is exspensive.

It occurred to me that we could probably build one using standard aluminium extrusion. It does not need to be too big either - I mostly build 3U and 6U Eurocard PCBs. I could probably even 3D print a plastic mounting to fit a standard Eurocard PCB to it.

If you used an aluminium extrusion frame could it be possible to cut a piece of wood and line with foam then use bolts with wingnuts to tighten to the frame? I normally use long standoffs on both sides and blue-tac to hold the components in palce. It works, but it's not very fast.

 

[ruffrecords]

If you used an aluminium extrusion frame could it be possible to cut a piece of wood and line with foam then use bolts with wingnuts to tighten to the frame? I normally use long standoffs on both sides and blue-tac to hold the components in place. It works, but it's not very fast.

Nice idea! I like it

Cheers

Ian

 

[Newmarket]

THat will work for many boards and most components but I had a backplane PCB that held about 50 or so two and three pin Moles connectors whcih cannot be soldered from the top. In the end I glued the connectors in place so I could later turn it over and solder the lot.

Cheers

Ian

Know what you mean. I usually just hold one in place and tack solder one pin before properly soldering the pins.
Then visually check the fit. Usually okay 90% of the time. And easy to reflow and correct when its not flat to the pcb.
But - yeah - I can see that would get very tedious and time consuming with 50 connectors ! A bit of glue there sounds good to me.
On an associated note - whilst I am quite the fan of Molex connectors (specifically friction lock KK and SPOX) I - I'm never that confident in two pin KK @ 2.54mm due to the play in connection. Often opted for three pin option for the mechanical stability. OTOH - they can be a challenge to remove the connection over, say, eight pins although a minor prise with a flat blade screwdriver usually sorts it.

 

[ruffrecords]

Know what you mean. I usually just hold one in place and tack solder one pin before properly soldering the pins.

That is what I used to do bt the board is nearly 17 inches long and about 5 inches deep so for connectors near the middle it was a real struggle to hold both the board and connector in one hand and the soldering iron in the other without getting burnt fingers.

Then visually check the fit. Usually okay 90% of the time. And easy to reflow and correct when its not flat to the pcb.
But - yeah - I can see that would get very tedious and time consuming with 50 connectors ! A bit of glue there sounds good to me.

The latest backplane PCBs have 12 slots rather than the earlier 6 so now there are even more connectors!

On an associated note - whilst I am quite the fan of Molex connectors (specifically friction lock KK and SPOX) I - I'm never that confident in two pin KK @ 2.54mm due to the play in connection. Often opted for three pin option for the mechanical stability. OTOH - they can be a challenge to remove the connection over, say, eight pins although a minor prise with a flat blade screwdriver usually sorts it.

I have never had any problems with 2 way KK connectors and I have used hundreds. The only problems I get are due to my own ineptness at crimping

Cheers

Ian

 

[jezzer]

Funnily enough, someone on one of the guitar pedals groups on Facebook posted their own DIY one just yesterday. I’ll see if I can find it and post a pic here.

 

[jezzer]

This is his work in progress. Looks like he might have an eye out though if he gets in too close…

 

[Quantum J Audio]

Does anyone have a good UK place to get reasonably priced aluminium extrusion? The smaller the gauge, the better. I'm short on time some pre-made corners or brackets would be helpful to minimise construction time.

 

[a2zemselectronics]

I have always wanted one of these but I cannot justify the expense:

KaiserTech

I was reminded of them when watching one of the Mend It Mark videos - he has an ancient one. There are plenty of much cheaper ones on the market but they all lack the foam rubber which is the key. You can fit all the components, close down the lid and they are all held firmly while you turn it over and solder them.

It occurred to me that we could probably build one using standard aluminium extrusion. It does not need to be too big either - I mostly build 3U and 6U Eurocard PCBs. I could probably even 3D print a plastic mounting to fit a standard Eurocard PCB to it.

Maybe we could base it on this much cheaper Kaisertech model: Kaisertech Quick

Edit: better link to Quick model: Large Quick

Cheers

Ian

That’s a great idea! Using aluminum extrusion could definitely work, and adding a 3D-printed mounting for Eurocard PCBs sounds like a practical solution. The key would be sourcing a good foam rubber material with the right density to hold components securely without damaging them. You might also consider using a laser-cut acrylic frame for added precision. Have you thought about using a spring-loaded mechanism to adjust for different PCB thicknesses? Would love to see how this DIY version turns out!

 

[ruffrecords]

That’s a great idea! Using aluminum extrusion could definitely work, and adding a 3D-printed mounting for Eurocard PCBs sounds like a practical solution.

I purchased a basic frame which addresses a lot of design issues. The 3D Eurocard mounting is a work in progress in paralle with me learong how to use 3D CAD!

The key would be sourcing a good foam rubber material with the right density to hold components securely without damaging them.

That is very important, especially its resilience to hot components. I have not researched this yet.

You might also consider using a laser-cut acrylic frame for added precision. Have you thought about using a spring-loaded mechanism to adjust for different PCB thicknesses?

Some means of holding it all together while you turn it over for soldering is definitely required. At the moment I am thinking of rubber bands with 3D printed ends thus making miniature bungee cords

Would love to see how this DIY version turns out!

Me too.

Cheers

Ian