Peavey classic 30 tube amp no sound.

[Mihobro]

One side of US power is essentially passive, while the hot leg can pick up all kinds of stuff, the UK two phase, both legs are pickup up the same junk 180 deg. out of phase to they should cancel.

 

[NoisyIndividual]

Picture posted after I wrote. Caps show no sign of leaking, goo is just to hold them in place and limit any microphonics.

The left cap IS showing the beginnings of leakage where the lead enters the capacitor body.
This is what the infamous Fender Illinois Caps do.


But yes, that yellow stuff is glue to secure the caps, it didn't come out of them.

 

[Mihobro]

The left cap IS showing the beginnings of leakage where the lead enters the capacitor body.
This is what the infamous Fender Illinois Caps do.

Zoomed in, still don't see it, brown colored stuff is the adhesive used to secure the component to the board, seen hundreds of amps like this. evidence of heat though as it should be clearer, not so brown. Not all cap failure will show as leakage of electrolyte though, only a real good cap meter can test. Also, these are 85 deg caps so I would generally like to see 105 or higher caps for power supplies. Problem is the best caps are radial packages, not axial. It is possible to shoehorn them in there. but it's not a pretty. Anyone got a preference for a manufacturer of axial caps?

 

[NoisyIndividual]

 

[NoisyIndividual]

That's a random photo I found of leaking Fender caps, electrolyte starting to come out of where the lead enters the capacitor body, as in the OP's photo.

 

[Mihobro]

Much better pic. thanks, you want to always replace these because it kinda spews an electrolytic mist into the amp, and can get on connectors, pots and switches causing them to fail. This one is not too bad, I have seen some with a black field surrounding the cap.

 

[guysilvermt]

Here is a better pic of caps in question. Ive decided to do a full replacement of caps. Well scratch that if I can get this damn board free of the metal chassis without doing any damage or having a mental meltdown I will replace all caps.

 

[guysilvermt]

Here is my board. From the YouTube videos that I've seen mine looks pristine, which is making me second guess trying to remove this board any further. Well that and it seems to be stuck over on the left side by the main transformer and the caps of death. The thing is definitely APITA!

 

[guysilvermt]

Anyone have any input on removing these caps of death or not? Apparently they have no purpose besides being a hazard? It has to be true like everything anyone says on the internet right?

 

[guysilvermt]

Here is my board

 

[guysilvermt]

Oh that wasn't so bad.

 

[guysilvermt]

So cr 4 and 6 look a little suspect maybe?

 

[guysilvermt]

Solder on tube sockets definitely gets hot.

 

[guysilvermt]

There is some white stuff and some ping stuff?

 

[guysilvermt]

The middle pic up towards the top there is some discoloration, looks a bit greasy under components C36 C 32

 

[guysilvermt]

The tube sockets soldered joints are suspect as well?

 

[guysilvermt]

The pink stuff is magic marker smeared by contact spray, the white stuff I don't know?

 

[guysilvermt]

One side of US power is essentially passive, while the hot leg can pick up all kinds of stuff, the UK two phase, both legs are pickup up the same junk 180 deg. out of phase to they should cancel.

Humbucking the power supply. Good idea what would it take to make this baby 240v it says on transformer replace with same type 250 volts?

 

[guysilvermt]

Start by pulling all the tubes and checking all the power supplies. Because of the smoke, If they OK check out at the sockets too. It they are off then check bias resistors. then check for bad tubes, especially open circuit on the filament heater coil. (looks like some are AC,) If they check OK, then put in the preamp tubes and test the audio in to the insert out to check the preamp stages. If the preamps check OK then it is a problem in the power amp, Check the bias resistors 40 thru 55. Replace as needed. a burned bias resistor could be a sign of a shorted tube. So be prepared to replace output tubes as needed. The stage before the power tube, the dual triode, is called the splitter and divided the signal into two with one being the invert of the other, The power stage has two pairs of tubes. Be suspicious of the associated tube of a burned or open resistor. the tube could be shorted. If it all manages to power up without any smoking. If there is still no output it could be the output transformer. or the speaker, did I say to check that first? There are a few switches and relays in there. so all the loops and reverb send and return as well as feedback? could also cause the amp to. not pass signal.

from a guy with a Fender Tech Certificate (they were giving them away)

I guess in going down the list. Starting with speaker that's smart!

 

[NoisyIndividual]

Why don't you just resolder everything?
You should at least resolder the tube sockets and any large heavy component just because you are in there already, that's par for the course for me.

Resoldering everything will take you what, 10 minutes?