potentiometer code clarification

[jp-apb]

Phishman,
Yes, bushing length is the length of the threaded section; make sure the bushing diameter and thread-pitch matches (it should).

For the shaft-length: See how Omeg specifies it in their drawings and then follow that guide.

Is this a knurled shaft (typically 18-tooth), or is a flatted D-shaft?
If flatted, Omeg will want to know overall shaft length and flat length.
(and make sure the flat is where you expect it when the pot is at full-CCW rotation).

A lot of details to specify if you want the pot to physically fit and behave properly....

JP

 

[PRR]

> didn't even think about the spacing between the wafers.

Like the 1968 Torino, there are 45,678 different ways to spec a single pot, and exponentially more duals.

If you can't get THE part from the factory, Good Luck.

> back side ..put a flat head screwdriver in there to turn it!  It works

Yes, I drove my Ford this way, screwdriver in the ignition lock.

Coming from that level of tolerance, the next step is:

Get a part which is electrically as close as possible. With shaft/bushing which can be made not-ugly. Do NOT worry about the wafer and lug pinout and size.

Bang three holes in beer-can metal to support this pot in the right place between the adjacent pots. Rotate so nothing hits. Bang a little hole to take the anti-rotate nub on the pot body.

Run six stiff wires from pot lugs to PCB holes. This eliminates all issues about lugs or pins, pin size and space, AC versus CA, 5mm or 7mm. You can even use the low-cost ALP duals which are 7 pins in-line (though they do not make those in AC, a dual-lin may be better than nothing). It may look like a snake orgy, you'll have to watch your shorts, but who is going to see it?