PYE Compressor/Limiter Thread *boards shipping* BOM up!

[mdainsd]

Travis. As I have no experience in this thing other than opening a couple of boxes and reading everything I can about it, I will only venture the following:

Your question about the switches and which side of the board they mount to. Comparing the silkscreen on the Collective Cases enclosure with the image of the 3.14 PWB...the switches would need to be mounted on the backside of the PWB with the silkscreen, header and other components facing away from the front panel for everything to line up (control name wise).

But...everything should be verified with the schematic and an ohm meter.

 

[moltenwok]

Got some lovely Jensen 1:4 transformers for output and interstage-Abe could you please indicate the input and output side of the interstage and the phasing. Cheers can't wait to hear it!

 

[mdainsd]

Mouser cart arrived today, YES!

So lets see, enclosure, check. Mouser Cart, check. Meters, in transit (I think). Boards....boards, where are the boards?

Im looking forward to this build. Hoping I made a good first choice...

 

[AntoineQ]

I'm thinking about Carnhill VTB1148 (1:3.4 ratio, 50:600ohms, if I'm right) for interstage and output, will it be fine?

 

[moltenwok]

Hmmm, my jensens are 10k:600 which was similar to the edcors Abe suggested. Re the switches I don't think it matters on there orientation as long as they match the front panel labeling. I tried to line up the knob flat but it didn't so just went with it! Cheers team

 

[moltenwok]

Ah ha-just doing the second pcb-thanks for sorting that Abe!  The Decay switch apears from the visible pcb track to need the sw center pins horizontal. Oh yeah-obviously I was gonna use the jensens 600:10k. Cheers...

 

[taliska]

Hey All!

Any news on how the second pre-order is progressing?

Cheers,

Kaz

 

[mdainsd]

I emailed Abe on about the 19th. he indicated them shipping in two weeks would or sometime this coming week (June 30~July 7)

Fingers are crossed. I have everything else on hand am looking forward to starting on this!

 

[Patrick from Davis]

Since the boards appear to be close, I thought it would be a good time to ask about the parts kits that Abe suggested earlier.  I was wondering if Abe was still interested and how much support from the community there was.  I am in for a stereo parts kit should that be an option.
Patrick

 

[stevenclements]

I emailed Abe on about the 19th. he indicated them shipping in two weeks would or sometime this coming week (June 30~July 7)

Fingers are crossed. I have everything else on hand am looking forward to starting on this!

Awesome... got all the bits but the second board that I goofed up on when I ordered the first

 

[Travis1000]

I've done a lot of thinking and staring at data sheets, but I still haven't found a very elegant solution to the in/bypass/off switch. My best idea right now is to hook one leg of the mains up and the xlr inputs as wells as the comp inputs but then I would 9 poles. Anyone got a much better idea?

 

[moltenwok]

Sorted the transformers now, for the off/on/bypass I'm thinking hard wire the mains on and relay switch supply to pcb and relay switch bypass, definitely don't want mains and audio anywhere near each other!

 

[moltenwok]

Thing I'm puzzled about now is the stereo link hookup-any thoughts team?

 

[prescott]

Would this setup work fine?

ll1540 on the input
ll5402 on the output?

And Abe, you wrote about the pn3640 wouldn't be the best part. Can you suggest a sub for that?

 

[mdainsd]

I received an email from Abe with a tracking number for the boards! I havent really found a build thread on this project and havent seen pictures or progress reports from others on how they did with this or the earlier revision boards??? Whats up?

 

[sr1200]

Im probably going to do a step by step pic build when my boards get here on monday

 

[Travis1000]

mine are mostly built. I had to learn a little bit about molex connectors and will probably crimp connectors and assemble my case this weekend. All I have left is to figure out how to wire the off/bypass/in and the stereo link switches and I will be in business! I was hoping Abe (or someone as equally talented) could chime in on how they accomplished wiring those switches.

 

[mdainsd]

What is your plan for the bypass? Im thinking relays right at the XLRs. one pole of a three position rotary for the relay control and one pole for line power control.

 

[jplebre]

Ok, I think I'm confusing myself since this thread actually refers to the design stage, prototype stage and early revisions of the board.
In fact, I think the schematic I've been looking at is for an older board.

I have a number of questions that I've seen asked before but I think I didn't see a clear answer for them, or didn't fully understand the answer.
I'm hoping since this is a relatively young project this can help people out in the future:

1 - what type of standoff where this holes designed for? (daughter cards)
I would like to use something like these: http://uk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Harwin/H3161-01/?qs=%2fha2pyFadug3VX%2fUDMyIBS4JZa3XRA0iPtgDHljT%2f5fvV1Sd5e0%2fQg%3d%3d and actually use this as a slot. I've been using the above sockets in a bunch of DOA like the API and the neve cards and they've been working flawlessly.
Maybe someone sees an issue with the frequency the clock will be working at?


2 - orientation of lorlins? I've seen this asked before but I may have skipped the answer.
The lorlins are marked on the PCB but with no orientation. Perhaps it doesn't matter for the first 2, but the last one is capped, so the orientation probably matters?

3 - Capped lorlin: I'm not sure what you mean by "Change to 4P1T".

4 - what is the meaning of your notation for transistors on your bom? | TR# | Substitutes ID (Sub alternatives ID) | Original ID |

5 - Any transistors that should be on standoffs? eg. maybe be changed to try and match units etc?

6 - C11 and C13 marked as 100nF and C38 is marked as 0.1uF. Same value/typo?

7 - Orientation of C10 and C35? These are marked with 2 + + on both holes.
I'm sure someone asked this but I guess I missed the answer.



8 - Any point in putting 100r trimpot on R23, 10k on R42 or 5M on R48? or just put the 22r/5k1/1M8 respectively??


Could we please see a picture of one of your finished PYE units or a wiring diagram? Still not sure about the on/off/bypass and stereo link. I've seen some ideas above by making some little input boards with relays etc is this what you intended?

As anyone went forward and got these https://www.edcorusa.com/ttpc600-10k for sidechain and output?
how did the 1:4 work on the output?

 

[Travis1000]

jplebre,

I can tell you that any schematic you've been looking at is not the same as any board marked rev 3.14, I believe Abe is working on getting a build document together that will contain an updated schematic.

Here are my best answers to your questions:

1 - what type of standoff where this holes designed for? (daughter cards)

in post 268 of this thread, Abe says he uses a pin from Dupont. He goes into further detail in that post.

3 - Capped lorlin: I'm not sure what you mean by "Change to 4P1T".

You can convert Lorlins by unscrewing the nut on the shaft and moving the metal ring with the tab on it to the appropriate hole.
This random post I found on the web explains a little better http://forum.simflight.com/topic/76599-ne1-familiar-with-these-convertible-rotary-switch/

4 - what is the meaning of your notation for transistors on your bom? | TR# | Substitutes ID (Sub alternatives ID) | Original ID |

it's my understanding that you will need to use the substitutes in most of those positions, but in order to do so they need to be rotated 90 degrees. See post #270 from Abe for a better explanation.

6 - C11 and C13 marked as 100nF and C38 is marked as 0.1uF. Same value/typo?

I didn't worry too much about this, it seems to be something that didn't get updated from revision to revision.

7 - Orientation of C10 and C35? These are marked with 2 + + on both holes.
I'm sure someone asked this but I guess I missed the answer.

C35's + should be to the right (closest to the edge of the board). C10, I also believe should be to the right. All the other caps that have the line below the two holes, the + leg goes to the right.

That's the best I can do for now, your other questions I don't really know the answers to.