S800 Support Thread

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[quote author="Baltimore"][quote author="bluezplaya"]Almost all the way (12-15 db). It's not so much distortion as it is overly resonant in those frequencies.[/quote]

Never worked on a trident, eh? thats the EQ. Nothing wrong.

This is NOT one of those EQs you can boost forever and still have it sound good. a little goes a long way and it KILLS on electric guitars and can be very cool on snares and toms.

of course, setting it up for unity can't hurt.[/quote]

No I haven't. Well I'm glad you cleared that up for me. I did notice that boosting only a little helped it a lot. I can see where the guitars would sound sweet! BTW, weren't some of the late Zeppelin albums mixed on this desk? :wink:
 
Yes, but GRAINY and DISTORTED are 2 very different things.... if you EQ is distorting or clipping, you have not set your unit up to run at unity gain and the input source is being over amplified... follow my directions if you want to avoid this.

TO make it even EASIER if you have a software DAW, say Pro Tools, just send a balanced Signal Generator tone out of PT into the EQ and back into your PT interface and visually take a look and see if they match up... if not adjust until they do.

Cheers

Matt
 
[quote author="bluezplaya"]I use Nuendo. I'm assuming I have a tone generator plugin somewheres.[/quote]
A Nuendo user in the US? :wink:
You should have a tone generator functionality somewhere AFAIR...
(sorry for being off topic)
 
Never worked on a trident, eh?

I just re-read this and feel like I sounded a bit jerkish, which was certainly not intended, I was just typing in haste.

Yes, definitely set up for unity and make sure the unit isn't clipping.

this eq is very obvious sounding, I find I limit my boosts to 3db or so. Extreme settings can sound pretty nasty.
 
You weren't jerkish at all :guinness: I HAVEN'T mixed on a Trident. I think the EQ sounds great and could sound really cool on some things when boosting the crap out of a frequency.
 
Hey guys, noob here (I'm one of those wire-by-number guys I always read about). I'm building an 8 channel unit as my first big project (I know, I know, a pretty steep ramp), and I've almost finished wiring up my first card but I've come to the end of my rope at the wiring of the 3 pole bypass switch. Can someone aid me in translating the 4 pole from the schematic and layout to the one I have for purushas case? Also, what are you guys using for the heat sink on Peters power supply? I know its gotta be big, but how big? Thanks in advance for your help. I would never have gotten this far without all the help and hard work you guys put in.

Matthew Sommer
 
[quote author="peterc"]>>

>> C25 : SCH=100nf : PS=100nf film : pcb=100uf electrolytic with round space and polarity marker

>> C28 : SCH=470uf elec : PS=470uf@35v elec : PCB=100uf electrolytic with round space and polarity marker

>>C26 : SCH=100uf@25v elec : PS=100uf@25v : PCB 100nf with small rectangle box

Designations for the electrolytics & bypass film caps swapped around.

Peter[/quote]

I'm confused now...are we supposed to go with what is shown on the PCB? Or are you saying the PCB silkscreen is wrong?

Also, I'm confused by the two R2's, and the R3o silkscreen that is beside one that says 5k6 - is this supposed to be R30? So, according to the BOM, are there supposed to be ten 47's, and not nine?

Thanks,
Sig
 
[quote author="Siegfried Meier"]I'm confused now...are we supposed to go with what is shown on the PCB? Or are you saying the PCB silkscreen is wrong?
[/quote]

The Silkscreen is FINE, it just doesn't match up to the schematic in that those caps are SWAPPED around (C25/C26), but since they are the bypass caps across the lyrics it doesn't matter... just follow the PCB silkscreen.... the schematic says C28/C30 are 470uF, but are marked on the PCB as CPSU 100uF... the parts in Colin's kits were 100uF, I'm sure these will work fine unless Peter says otherwise...

[quote author="Siegfried Meier"]Also, I'm confused by the two R2's, and the R3o silkscreen that is beside one that says 5k6 - is this supposed to be R30? So, according to the BOM, are there supposed to be ten 47's, and not nine?[/quote]

No, that is supposed to be R3a, whose value is 5K6. There is only one R2 that I can see?

Cheers

Matt
 
Oh wait...I'm guessing that is supposed to be R27...silkscreen was cut off with the hole of the resistor.

So, there's 10 in total then, including R46, which is not marked on the BOM.

Thanks!
Sig
 
[quote author="Siegfried Meier"]I assume the resistors marked Lk mean link? And with Colin's kits, that means to use the 0 ohm resistors?

Thanks,
Sig[/quote]

Your assumption is correct :thumb:

Matt
 
Sorry for the stupid question, but what's the difference from using 0 ohm resistors or just a piece of wire?

Live long and prosper.
 
No difference.... I just thought you would like them in the kit as it is easier to fit them and they cost almost nothing.... if you choose to use wire it should ideally be insulated...

Colin
www.audiomaintenance.com
 
Hi all!

Quick question , guys: How critical is the value of R7...the 23k7 resistor ?

I can get 23k5 from RS , here in the uk (almost £1 each!) or I suppose another option would be paralleling two 47k's which would be a lot cheaper , if the circuit design doesn't mind..

What are y'all doing about this resistor?

Cheers

nEon.
 
hey peter,

I remember you saying that we would need BIG heat sinks for the regulators on your PSU if using it to power 8 channels of the s800. Big enough that I should mount them off the pcb? or will the biggest heatsink I can fit on the board cut it you think? If this isn't the right thread then I'm sorry, I'll make a different one. Thanks.

Matt
 
Neon

2 x 47k's in parallel will be fine.

Brolik

I did an 8 chan Green with a single PSU & I used a lump of aluminium about 50 x 25 x 5mm & it got HOT! Worked fine for a good few months but I then mounted the regs on the chassis for longevity's sake.

Bear in mind that the current draw for the S800 should be less per channel than the Green

Peter
 
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