SB4000 Support Thread

[0dbfs]

Man, You guys are banging these things out left and right!
I just started stuffing two of these this weekend and by the looks of it, it's going to take at least a couple minutes.

Any speed-stuffing pointers from the more experienced?

Thx,
jonathan

 

[ruckus328]

Do the resistors/caps first.  That's the shitty part.  After that it's all downhill.  For connectors/DIP sockets I'll usually just do 2 pads on each until I have them all on there, than go to town on all the remaining pads which moves very quickly.  With the gold plating it's easy to spot what's not soldered yet..

 

[egoservant]

Hey Mike,
I'm using 202 Gold VCAs. Can you verify that R84/R126, R105/R146 (underneath the VCAs) are populated. I am also unsure what/where R132 is located
-Steve 

 

[Rellister]

Hey Ruckus,

I´m a bit lost whether I need R169, the 47K or not. Its populated, but havent fired up yet. I´m using the kit from Ptown with Bourns pots. I can see that its related to the threshold somehow, but thats about it. Any advice appreciated!

Thanks
Rune

 

[0dbfs]

Do the resistors/caps first.  That's the Sh*tty part.  After that it's all downhill.  For connectors/DIP sockets I'll usually just do 2 pads on each until I have them all on there, than go to town on all the remaining pads which moves very quickly.  With the gold plating it's easy to spot what's not soldered yet..

Yeah, still working through sorting, testing, and populating the resistors. The mouser orders are of course pre-sorted in little baggies. The cool think w/ptown's kit is that they are decade-grouped into baggies but not pre-sorted so it's a great opportunity for me to re-visit and refresh the BBROYGBVGW (Gold&Silver) thing.

Just looking to share some time-saving techniques. I have been sorting a batch of 100k's, stuffing, soldering, clipping, then on to the next value (as opposed to attempting to stuff several values then solder/snip). But hey, open to suggestions.

Seems like some of the guys have been knocking these out pretty quickly so I was wondering if it's just lots of hours, or different technique.

Cheers,
jonathan

 

[EHOFFA007]

I used an online resistor calculator and sorted and stuffed as many as I could before fliping and soldering.
Did both boards at the same time and banged it out in chunks.
It did take about two or three days of only getting up to piss and smoke to get the two sets of PCB's stuffed, Lots 'o' parts!
Props to Ptown on the parts kit! highly recommended!

 

[0dbfs]

Hey Ruckus,

I´m a bit lost whether I need R169, the 47K or not. Its populated, but havent fired up yet. I´m using the kit from Ptown with Bourns pots. I can see that its related to the threshold somehow, but thats about it. Any advice appreciated!

Thanks
Rune

Looks like that 47k is in series between +12V - 47k - 50k(thresh-pot) - -12V, where the wiper of the 50k pot feeds the threshold signal out to that CV part of the circuit. So the signal goes from a -12V towards 0V as you turn the threshold pot down (CCW). Depending on the actual value of the 50k (ie; +/- 10% or whatever) the signal may potentially go over 0V into the positive. If that 47k were omitted, you would reach that "Max" threshold value about midway through the pot travel instead of towards the end of it's travel. Not sure about sending positive voltage into that section of the CV circuit at this point though.

Looks like it is intended to be a negative DC offset that gets added with the CV signal in order to move the CV into the trigger area. aka: threshold.

47k is in the schematic, and on the PCB. Appears that removing it (jumpering) would make the control more sensitive. Maybe even dangerous. Perhaps there is another negative signal that is to be referenced in addition to that one when jumpered? Not sure yet. Gotta hit the books a little more on that one.

If you already have it in there I would go ahead with it that way until we have more definitive info.

Cheers,
jonathan

 

[Ptownkid]

The cool thing w/ptown's kit is that they are decade-grouped into baggies but not pre-sorted so it's a great opportunity for me to re-visit and refresh the BBROYGBVGW (Gold&Silver) thing.

The simple reason why I do it that way is to save time putting the kits together...but i do like the fact that is promotes the end user to actually measure or at the very least read the code...

This board does take a fair amount of time to stuff, especially if you are taking your time. Look at it this way, a few extra hours of patience and care now could save you a tremendous amount of time if you have to hunt down an error...

Rune, I have a jumper there...I can't remember Mike's exact answer right now, but you'll be fine either way.

Elliot, I am glad to hear that you are happy!

 

[ruckus328]

Hey Mike,
I'm using 202 Gold VCAs. Can you verify that R84/R126, R105/R146 (underneath the VCAs) are populated. I am also unsure what/where R132 is located
-Steve 

Steve, not sure where you're coming up with those designators, nothing under the VCA should be populated if you're using DBX202 Gold Cans.  You just need to install JMP8/JMP9 (back side of the board), which allows the CV signal to reach the EC- Pin on the 202 (take a look at the schematic to see what I mean).  R132 is a typo, my bad, it should read VR16, which is the ratio calibration pot by U13 (the TL072).

 

[ruckus328]

Resistors - much quicker (and less risky) way would probably be to just use a multimeter to read the value.

 

[ruckus328]

Hey Ruckus,

I´m a bit lost whether I need R169, the 47K or not. Its populated, but havent fired up yet. I´m using the kit from Ptown with Bourns pots. I can see that its related to the threshold somehow, but thats about it. Any advice appreciated!

Thanks
Rune

Jon, good analysis.  Installing a 47K lowers the threshold sensitivity (sometimes too low).  I recommend to jumper it.

 

[Winetree]

Got the boards built. Need to notch front lips on the case to mount front panel but I can't open the
FDP file without paying $39.95 for a file opening program. Any JPG or PDF file available for the front notching?

 

[snipsnip]

FPD is free mate, or at least has a free version.

Id be amazed if anyone bothered to read the code on resistors. Just measure and save yourself hours of time and plently of sanity.

 

[snipsnip]

or if it really is no longer free (I havent checked) im sure I could open the file for you and export in a different format.

Double check on the FPE website though.

 

[0dbfs]

The cool thing w/ptown's kit is that they are decade-grouped into baggies but not pre-sorted so it's a great opportunity for me to re-visit and refresh the BBROYGBVGW (Gold&Silver) thing.

The simple reason why I do it that way is to save time putting the kits together...but i do like the fact that is promotes the end user to actually measure or at the very least read the code...

Cool man (and thanks)! Sounds like I am on track/trace by sorting visually then metering to confirm values are as expected/specified. It does appear to take me a little longer up front and I am interested in reducing my build time investment, at the same time I also enjoy and benefit from full-immersion throughout the journey.

The horizon of discovery is a nice place to be.

Great ideas here! Keep 'em coming! Thanks guys.

Cheers,
jonathan

 

[ruckus328]

2-3 days is pretty reasonable to stuff two boards.  I've built 3 units and did each one in a (long) weekend (with austrian death machine on constant repeat, I feel this played a big part).  That was machining the enclosures on a Friday night, stuffing the board all day Saturday, wiring and calibration on Sunday.  If you can get an entire board done in 10-12 hours I'd say you're doing pretty good.

 

[azone]

Here's some pics that I promised from my build in November.
It was built with mostly standard components. There are some electrical and mechanical parts that were substituted just for personal preference.
I wish the pics could be better but it's the best I can do with my current point & shoot camera. Click on pics for larger version.

 

[Rellister]

Hey everybody!
Finished the wiring today, powered up, calibrated....
It works perfectly. On first try. And sounds awesome.  
Just did some quick tests on a drumbus, love it.

Jon, good analysis.  Installing a 47K lowers the threshold sensitivity (sometimes too low).  I recommend to jumper it.

Agreed, thanks!

Celebrated with a few beers during calibration so will repeat the last steps after easter holiday 8)
Thanks for a great project!

Rune

Edit; Got to post a pic. Still got some wiring to clean up and stuff, but couldnt help myself.
My regulators run a little hot with the 50VA Triad, but hopefully its ok.
Bar graph in bar mode, knobs as in Mikes Prototype;

 

[sr1200]

It's ALIVE!!!!!

 

[a2d]

Well I just finished calibrating and doing a shoot out against the real deal, and I must say its pretty close to the real thing. a little darker, but very well done.
I only found one issue, The Gain reduction meter doesn't react as is should, I'll have to look into that or maybe thats the way it is.
ok Off to do a shoot out against a C1 and C2

One thought- do you think the power supply would be able to handle adding 3 more bar graphs, I'm thinking like the UA 2192


Good Job Mike and Bryan

Mike Smith
Phase One Studios
www.phaseonestudios.com