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SKJGProject said:
ok, but i really have 4 left so maybe somebody is missing some or you put more in than needed (like the 56r resistors)  ;D

Ahh, sorry I didn't realize you menat you have 8 nuts total.  Then there's just 4 extra in your kit, just disregard.
 
Disassembled the unit only to find my Hakko Desoldering Gun
can't desolder the 1meg switch pins without burning the sides of the two side switches. Tight fit.
Looking at cutting the center pin from the board and doing a jumper to the side pin.
Has Anybody done this.
 
Winetree said:
Disassembled the unit only to find my Hakko Desoldering Gun
can't desolder the 1meg switch pins without burning the sides of the two side switches. Tight fit.
Looking at cutting the center pin from the board and doing a jumper to the side pin.
Has Anybody done this.

No, I'll threepeat myself - you can't do it by cutting the trace, you have to physically remove the center pin of the pot from the board to severe the connection, there's no way around this, no if ands or buts, believe me if there was I would tell you.  Pins 1 and 2 are connected in copper, bottom side of board, underneath the shadow of the pot, so pot has to be removed.  Doing what you described would put you right back to square one.

As mentioned, use solder wick to remove it.
 
I think ruckus misread Winetree's post and saw the word trace; if he cuts his center pot leg free without desoldering, and puts a jumper wire from the pot center to the outer leg, it should get him there. 
 
canidoit said:
ruckus328 said:
Winetree said:
Disassembled the unit only to find my Hakko Desoldering Gun
can't desolder the 1meg switch pins without burning the sides of the two side switches. Tight fit.
Looking at cutting the center pin from the board and doing a jumper to the side pin.
Has Anybody done this.

No, I'll threepeat myself - you can't do it by cutting the trace, you have to physically remove the center pin of the pot from the board to severe the connection, there's no way around this, no if ands or buts, believe me if there was I would tell you.  Pins 1 and 2 are connected in copper, bottom side of board, underneath the shadow of the pot, so pot has to be removed.  Doing what you described would put you right back to square one.

As mentioned, use solder wick to remove it.
Ruckus, I have not soldered my pot in. Please be a little patient here, it's not our fault that we have to do a mod on your board and it makes it difficult since you are not even supplying the schematics to do our own improvised mod of your mod.

Anyways, if anyone has done Ruckus pot mod, can you please post a pic up of the pot installed on the PCB board  :)

Nobody said it was your fault, but you insist on being complicated.  Clear pics were already provided, solution clearly explained, if you want to second guess and argue it then don't know what to tell you.
 
emrr said:
if he cuts his center pot leg free without desoldering, and puts a jumper wire from the pot center to the outer leg, it should get him there.

Yes, sure that would work, but with the amount of space between the pot and board I don't see how it would be possible to actually get in there and cut it, and then solder a jumper to the center pin.
 
if you look at his pictures you can see the direction of the connectors on the pcb and in your picture how he connected the cable on the female side of the connector...

STEP15.JPG


STEP6.JPG
 
mulletchuck said:
Ruckus, could you explain what A1, A2, Boost and Slope do?
From what I recall reading it from somewhere I think, it is how the filter affects the compression. So for slope, the EQ frequencies are in a slope angle that affect the compression unlike the other settings which is a specific frequency dependent. I'm not sure how Boost works though?

I may be wrong  ???
 
just populated all the parts - nice kit I must say.
have to ship out some orders now, when I'm back I will start with the Grayhills / Bourns etc.
I'm sure I will have a great working SB4001 this evening 8)
 
finished 8)
[nearly]

forgot to connect the meter, and since the mechanical part was the worst of my fun I won't do this today.

Mr. ruckus328, thanks for this project and the unbelievable parts kit.
while the (mechanical) assembling instructions were a pain for me (I hate this part),
they have been clear all the time.

with this art (PCB) of work (assembling & time) I can't really understand your sales price for a finished unit!

congrats and thanks again.
 
STEP18.JPG


The Red/black wire has the red wire on the left of the tabbed connector end, and on the left connector of the meter
The orange/yellow has the orange wire on the left of the meter, and the left of the tabbed connector.  It's pretty obvious in the pic.
 
I dunno, i can see that the yellow is going into the left side of the connector (facing) You can see the lil bit of yellow at the left edge of the connector, which leaves only one option for the orange.... just sayin....
 
I didn't see a + mark on the meter, so i just followed the colors in the picture, and the clip end of the wires can only go in one way on the PCB... Either way, the meter won't explode or die if you wire it backwards.  it just won't turn on.    A quick fix to flip them in the plastic connector and reconnect...  Or resolder...
 
So my build is finished an it looks great, thanks so much for a great project! I can't wait to start using it!

I have a question hopefully someone can help me with so I can plug this in. The TL074B op amps have both an indent and a pressed circle on either end. Do I orient the indent or the circle on the TL074B with the circle on the PCB? Image attached...

Thanks.
 

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