SSL 4000 EQ

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HEllo , could anyone help me with my unit please ?

everything works fine except the "Q" adjustment ,
it only works  fine on WIDE setting .
in narrow setting if you boost 15dbs it does nothing.

for example :  LMF  +15dbs  (  tweaking from Narrow Q  to wide Q)  its behavior is like its always wide open , and  works similar to gain .

please help me with this , since im stuck in this step.
thank you!


 
Hi!
The download link for my faceplate had apparently again expired, so here's a link to my dropbox.
Let me know by PM again if you notice it isn't working.  :)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/t87zo3upmpelpnr/Dual-4k-EQ-faceplate.svg?dl=1
 
A lot of different options,
look for any toroid with 30VA (or above but then it becomes bigger), with 2x18V or 2x20V secondaries

https://www.banzaimusic.com/Talema-TRT30218.html

https://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/mcta030-18/transformer-toroidal-2-x-18v-30va/dp/9530320?st=toroid

https://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/vtx-146-030-118/transformer-30va-2x-18v/dp/1675053?st=toroid

https://pt.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hammond-Manufacturing/1182H18?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvwUzoUXIIvySPCJQuQgm7bFVjGbgyUPE8gEtdkrhlkCw%3D%3D

https://www.antekinc.com/as-0518-50va-18v-transformer/
 
Whoops said:
A lot of different options,
look for any toroid with 30VA (or above but then it becomes bigger), with 2x18V or 2x20V secondaries

https://www.banzaimusic.com/Talema-TRT30218.html

https://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/mcta030-18/transformer-toroidal-2-x-18v-30va/dp/9530320?st=toroid

https://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/vtx-146-030-118/transformer-30va-2x-18v/dp/1675053?st=toroid

https://pt.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hammond-Manufacturing/1182H18?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvwUzoUXIIvySPCJQuQgm7bFVjGbgyUPE8gEtdkrhlkCw%3D%3D

https://www.antekinc.com/as-0518-50va-18v-transformer/

Thank you ;)
 
Just finishing up the build, but running into a problem. I tested PS voltages, which checked out (+18, +12, 0, and -18). But as soon as I connect to the filter board, my +18 goes down to 3v and I get a bad burning plastic smell (no smoke...yet). When I take out the NE5534 OAs, the voltage goes back to +18 as it should be. Obviously something is dragging down my voltage, but a little unsure of how to find it. I did test continuity and all seems fine. I also made sure there was no continuity across the SMD caps, and that also checks out fine.

Any ideas??
 
Hi Deejsirois,

did you try change the NE5534 for the new ones? Also check if there arent shorted legs under 8DIP sockets on the bottom of the pcb. 

M.
 
Vac11 said:
Hi Deejsirois,

did you try change the NE5534 for the new ones? Also check if there arent shorted legs under 8DIP sockets on the bottom of the pcb. 

M.

I have swapped out all the NE5534s, but realized my issue was actually that I had the wiring to the power connector wrong. I have fixed that.  But I now have another issue. I can pass audio in bypass, but as soon as I engage the EQ, I get a very small signal that sounds like morse code. I wish I knew more about how the NE5534s function and how the bypass works so I can chase down  what is likely to be a bad component in the audio path.
 
Deejsirois said:
I have swapped out all the NE5534s, but realized my issue was actually that I had the wiring to the power connector wrong. I have fixed that.  But I now have another issue. I can pass audio in bypass, but as soon as I engage the EQ, I get a very small signal that sounds like morse code. I wish I knew more about how the NE5534s function and how the bypass works so I can chase down  what is likely to be a bad component in the audio path.

What did you do in regards to the power wiring error???

If the bypass bypasses everything,  everything is fair game depending on what you did....
 
scott2000 said:
What did you do in regards to the power wiring error???

If the bypass bypasses everything,  everything is fair game depending on what you did....

I was afraid of getting this response. As far as the error, I feel quite sheepish because it was laid out plain, but maybe too plain? Anyways, on the board where it says +, then 12V....well I read that as +12v. And for some reason I was like "well then the +18V much be where nothing is written"  :eek:  So I had the +18v going to the 0V, +12v going to +18V, and Ov going to the +12v. I am not new to building so I have been beating myself up over such a stupid mistake. Like what kind of glue was I smoking? :eek: :eek: :eek:

I guess I will likely have to wait for another board, get that one built and use it as my expected results in order to troubleshoot my current board. Well, I can assure you I will never make THAT mistake again.

Thanks for the responses and for putting up with my incompetence...unreal

Any chance one of you have the gerber for the Top Soldermask? Thanks!
 
Well like Ian says, the only ones not making mistakes are the one's not doing anything....something to that affect....
.. Happens to everyone.
Do you have a schematic you're working with?

I can't figure out which one is being used.....

I do know know tant caps are real picky....

 
scott2000 said:
Well like Ian says, the only ones not making mistakes are the one's not doing anything....something to that affect....
.. Happens to everyone.
Do you have a schematic you're working with?

I can't figure out which one is being used.....

I do know know tant caps are real picky....

Due to NOT having a schematic, I am using the copper gerber files. Not ideal (I would much prefer a schematic), but it has helped me. The only schematic I have seen on this thread is crazy pixelated, and I am not even sure it is the right one. I am also using my DMM to confirm the circuit path. Probably should just draw the schematic out, but don't have a tone of experience doing that, so likely would make some errors along the way, furthering the issue lol.

Also, no tant caps in this build....just ceramic, film, and electro caps.
 
Vac11 said:
Schematic...

Thanks Vac 11! It gets crazy pixelated when I zoom in, but it's better than nothing ;)

EDIT: Got it working!! Woohoo! Sounds good out of the gate. Now to calibrate it properly
 
I have the schematic and mine it's not pixelated here it goes:
IWzENp7.png
 
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