SSL 4000E refurb

[kags]

I’ve only cleaned the ultimatum faders, and I do remove the fader from the rod. On the ultimatum faders it comes off easily and I wipe the rod with alcohol before reassembling. Be careful not to disturb the delicate wires that contact the fader track. Your faders may be different, though. Somewhere there is a good video or two about cleaning and reconditioning those faders …

We have about 240 channels of SSL consoles, so after cleaning all the faders, I start at the top again…

 

[Whoops]

We have about 240 channels of SSL consoles, so after cleaning all the faders, I start at the top again…

 

[Jdm5149]

This one has a middle ring that is held in place by a spring. I guess I will try keeping things in place and use water

 

[Jdm5149]

Also should the blue strips be wiped down

 

[Jdm5149]

Hey there. Board still in storage. Planning on getting power supply from Malcom Toft. But for now I might need to bypass the computer when I finally install it. Would like to know the connectors needed to bypass computer. Any specific type. Seller stated computer worked but program and reel drive 8” non working. Will eventually go the tangerine route. Thanks

 

[gyraf]

May be worth it to fix the 8" drives - very often only a mechanical/ adjustment issue. This is kinda low-tech.

/Jakob E.

 

[pucho812]

Hey there. Board still in storage. Planning on getting power supply from Malcom Toft. But for now I might need to bypass the computer when I finally install it. Would like to know the connectors needed to bypass computer. Any specific type. Seller stated computer worked but program and reel drive 8” non working. Will eventually go the tangerine route. Thanks

My passing faders is described in great detail in the manual.

 

[gyraf]

..By-passing. ..darn autotune..

 

[Jdm5149]

K thanks everyone. Will look into manual

 

[zonkers31]

What you have there is an E/G. Later consoles could be ordered with E series cards or the Newer G series ones. E frame with G series modules. They didnt change the Knob colors till they went to the G frame. G eq's have the times 3 and divide by 3 switches on the hi mid -low mid sections. Also the mic pre is a G series. You can tell by the red stepped attenuator instead of a pot on the mic gain. As far as refurbishing, check around the connectors to the mic pre. The black "heat shrink" on the cables is not heat shrink but a rubbery cover which over time drys out and releases a corrosive substance that will eat copper. If it is brittle, then has deteriorated. When we refurbish these, we get rid of it even if it hasn't happened yet, because it will. It's a very well know issue with these consoles Some center section cards will have "mods" done by SSL on the cards. These are usually on the under side of the cards and will have the rubber too. Look for any green or White fuzz. Its a tell tell sign and needs to be cleaned and repaired. They can cause all sorts of intermittant problems and open or short circuits.

 

[nielsk]

++ on removing the expando tubing and repairing trace corrosion caused by it, it happens all over the place.
Horrible stuff.
Why buy power supplies when you already have 1 to use and 1 as a spare?
People generally do this when the main P/T goes, as there is no replacement available.
They are a PIA to repair, but they all are, and all of the switch-mode replacement units have their own problems and cost a fortune for a box of Meanwell units you can get off amazon for $50.
Don't believe the marketing hype about the "replacement" supplies, I have had to do many repairs to these as they DO fail, and they have nothing even close to the 0hz filter such as the 9000J employs (which does a good job making extremely expensive switch-mode modules usable for analog audio) .
Of course, if you can get 2x the price of replacement selling them, that probably makes sense.
Your console is so small it is not going to stress out any of them, and if you run them on 240VAC everything will be better.

 

[Jdm5149]

Thanks for the replies. The computer I would like to repair but for the power I would like to shut the console off when not in use. Also like the idea of one unit no noise less $$$ elec. I guess I’ll try to get both ways going once installed. I was selling the the rack but now I’m keeping to repair and test.

 

[Jdm5149]

Haven’t noticed any deterioration around the pres but will check again before installing. Thanks

 

[nielsk]

The power supplies have ON-OFF switches and the frame has power switches for each bucket, it is no problem turning the console on & off.
You only need one console p/s for up to 40 channels.
I doubt there is much difference in electricity use as any power supply used will be supplying the same load.
If the fans are noisy replace them with low noise type.
Consider waiting until you have everything else working before addressing the computer, it makes it much easier to troubleshoot and you may have decided that you won't use it (I don't see them get much use these days...)

 

[nielsk]

Computer bypass, plugs into 50 way connectors on 675 panel on console belly

 

[zonkers31]

Haven’t noticed any deterioration around the pres but will check again before installing. Thanks

Good. This usually means it had previously been used in an envirnment that had adequate cooling. Still it is something to
be very aware of. You will usually see the corrosion at the sheild on the brown connectors that attache to the mic pre. It will eat though the cable-pin connections and create cold solder joints where it has been used as for mods. Just rub your fingers on this stuff and if it crumbles then remove it and clean the area with isopropyl alcohol. If you look at your modules you will see a resistor on the back side of the main board near the buss assign switches. The resistor leads are covered with this stuff.