Hi,
I'm going with 2 x 6BA6 tubes instead of 1 x 6386 for this build, using a (modified) T-Bar board from Manley Labs. Another user here, FarisElek, uploaded a schematic from Bowie:
As this shows, pins 2 and 7, and 5 and 6 are connected for both 6BA6 tubes. I'm thinking of joining them beneath the board with an uninsulated copper wire, directly from the socket pins. Is this the right way to join pins? Because 5 and 6 are adjacent it's an easy join, but joining 2 and 7 requires the wire to cross the socket. Would this cause any issues?
I imagine the connection would be from 6386 socket 8 to 6BA6 pin 2, and then joining 6BA6 pin 2 to 7 with copper wire. Is this the best way, or do I need the connection from 6386 pin 8 to be equidistant from 6BA6 ins 2 and 7? By this I mean just like the circuit above shows the connections between heater pins 3 and 4 of both 6BA6s and pind 1 and 9 of the 6386.
The T-Bar has 2 PCBs. Here is the lower board, which has the 9-pin extender for the original 6386 socket. I've removed all the copper traces, as this version was wired for the 5670 tube, an alternative to the 6386 that Manley was using at the time this version of the T-Bar was in use. My plan is to connect each pin from the 6386 socket to the corresponding terminal via hookup wire:
Here is the upper board. The traces on this PCB match the 6BA6 pinout. I've removed one trace, which was between pin 3 of 6BA6 #1 and pin 4 of 6BA6 #2, the heater pins:
And here are the two boards as they'll be assembled:
The heaters for all tubes in this build run at 6.3VDC. Pins 1 and 9 on the lower board are accessible with the top board in place, and I'm thinking about the best way to connect these to the upper board. Because of the layout on the top board, if I join pins 3 on both sockets AND pin 4 on both it will be a criss-cross. I could do one join on top of upper PCB and one bottom of upper PCB. Still a criss-cross but separated by the PCB. I'll also add the 68 ohm resistors on the bottom board, between socket pins and terminals.
Does this all look reasonable? I don't know enough about electromagnetic interference to tell whether I'd be introducing a whole lot of noise if I wire things this way...
Cheers
Stephen
I'm going with 2 x 6BA6 tubes instead of 1 x 6386 for this build, using a (modified) T-Bar board from Manley Labs. Another user here, FarisElek, uploaded a schematic from Bowie:
As this shows, pins 2 and 7, and 5 and 6 are connected for both 6BA6 tubes. I'm thinking of joining them beneath the board with an uninsulated copper wire, directly from the socket pins. Is this the right way to join pins? Because 5 and 6 are adjacent it's an easy join, but joining 2 and 7 requires the wire to cross the socket. Would this cause any issues?
I imagine the connection would be from 6386 socket 8 to 6BA6 pin 2, and then joining 6BA6 pin 2 to 7 with copper wire. Is this the best way, or do I need the connection from 6386 pin 8 to be equidistant from 6BA6 ins 2 and 7? By this I mean just like the circuit above shows the connections between heater pins 3 and 4 of both 6BA6s and pind 1 and 9 of the 6386.
The T-Bar has 2 PCBs. Here is the lower board, which has the 9-pin extender for the original 6386 socket. I've removed all the copper traces, as this version was wired for the 5670 tube, an alternative to the 6386 that Manley was using at the time this version of the T-Bar was in use. My plan is to connect each pin from the 6386 socket to the corresponding terminal via hookup wire:
Here is the upper board. The traces on this PCB match the 6BA6 pinout. I've removed one trace, which was between pin 3 of 6BA6 #1 and pin 4 of 6BA6 #2, the heater pins:
And here are the two boards as they'll be assembled:
The heaters for all tubes in this build run at 6.3VDC. Pins 1 and 9 on the lower board are accessible with the top board in place, and I'm thinking about the best way to connect these to the upper board. Because of the layout on the top board, if I join pins 3 on both sockets AND pin 4 on both it will be a criss-cross. I could do one join on top of upper PCB and one bottom of upper PCB. Still a criss-cross but separated by the PCB. I'll also add the 68 ohm resistors on the bottom board, between socket pins and terminals.
Does this all look reasonable? I don't know enough about electromagnetic interference to tell whether I'd be introducing a whole lot of noise if I wire things this way...
Cheers
Stephen
