Studer 169 EQ in API 500 format
- Thread starter audiox
- Start date
Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:
strangeandbouncy
Well-known member
Hmmm,
you'll have to crane your necks, I rotated the images here and saved them, so gawd knows why they're topsy-turvy!
AndyP
you'll have to crane your necks, I rotated the images here and saved them, so gawd knows why they're topsy-turvy!
AndyP
dmp
Well-known member
Andy,
What caps / freqs did you use for your 6 position switches? What are you finding the most useful for different applications?
I am an amateur with recording so any insight is appreciated...
Dan
What caps / freqs did you use for your 6 position switches? What are you finding the most useful for different applications?
I am an amateur with recording so any insight is appreciated...
Dan
strangeandbouncy
Well-known member
Hi,
in bass, 330nF, 220nF, 150nF, 100nF, 68nF, and 47nF, giving 19Hz, 28Hz, 40Hz, 60Hz, 85Hz and 120Hz.
in Treble, 47nF, 33nF, 22nF, 15nF, 10nF and 6.8nF, giving 4k1, 5k9, 8k8, 12k7, 18k9, and27k3
I am using 28Hz and 18k9 quite a lot. I am using them across drum sub-bus post comp, mix bus duties, and especially on vocals. They are awesome an individual drums too! Kick, Snare and toms - yum! wish I had not come up/down so much, but had more choice at the extremes really. I wish I had 22k7 especially! I will be doing this on my next pair. I used Wimas for what it's worth. Available at Maplins!
I would recommend NOT doing what I did if you want something general. The mid band would be extremely useful, and I would be very happy with say, bass set at 28Hz, and treble at 18k9. If you follow Audiox's front panel, and have 3 or even just 2 different frequencies top and bottom, you would be very happy, I am sure.
I can recommend using API 2520 for this. It definitely adds a certain je ne sais quois . . . I am looking forward to trying the OA10 too! If you want to just use an NE5534, this sounds great too!, but a bit more brittle at extreme gain in the HF.
Good luck! this is a very simple build, no power supply required if you have an API lunchbox, so very much safer too. It is not rocket science, and you will instantly love them ,i promise!
Good luck,
ANdyp
in bass, 330nF, 220nF, 150nF, 100nF, 68nF, and 47nF, giving 19Hz, 28Hz, 40Hz, 60Hz, 85Hz and 120Hz.
in Treble, 47nF, 33nF, 22nF, 15nF, 10nF and 6.8nF, giving 4k1, 5k9, 8k8, 12k7, 18k9, and27k3
I am using 28Hz and 18k9 quite a lot. I am using them across drum sub-bus post comp, mix bus duties, and especially on vocals. They are awesome an individual drums too! Kick, Snare and toms - yum! wish I had not come up/down so much, but had more choice at the extremes really. I wish I had 22k7 especially! I will be doing this on my next pair. I used Wimas for what it's worth. Available at Maplins!
I would recommend NOT doing what I did if you want something general. The mid band would be extremely useful, and I would be very happy with say, bass set at 28Hz, and treble at 18k9. If you follow Audiox's front panel, and have 3 or even just 2 different frequencies top and bottom, you would be very happy, I am sure.
I can recommend using API 2520 for this. It definitely adds a certain je ne sais quois . . . I am looking forward to trying the OA10 too! If you want to just use an NE5534, this sounds great too!, but a bit more brittle at extreme gain in the HF.
Good luck! this is a very simple build, no power supply required if you have an API lunchbox, so very much safer too. It is not rocket science, and you will instantly love them ,i promise!
Good luck,
ANdyp
dmp
Well-known member
Cool! thanks for the advice.
I'll would like to keep the midband, and try to add selector switches for the high and low frequencies.
So maybe...
high: 12nf (15.8kHz), 10nf (18.9 kHz), 8.2nf(22.7kHz)
low: 220nf (28Hz), 100nf (60Hz), 47nf (120 Hz)
(edited to correct typo...)
I'll would like to keep the midband, and try to add selector switches for the high and low frequencies.
So maybe...
high: 12nf (15.8kHz), 10nf (18.9 kHz), 8.2nf(22.7kHz)
low: 220nf (28Hz), 100nf (60Hz), 47nf (120 Hz)
(edited to correct typo...)
strangeandbouncy
Well-known member
Just go for it!
You can always change 'em to taste . . .
Kindest regards,
ANdyP
You can always change 'em to taste . . .
Kindest regards,
ANdyP
![Electronics Soldering Iron Kit, [Upgraded] Soldering Iron 110V 90W LCD Digital Portable Soldering Kit 180-480℃(356-896℉), Welding Tool with ON/OFF Switch, Auto-sleep, Thermostatic Design](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41gRDnlyfJS._SL500_.jpg)
strangeandbouncy
Well-known member
Hi,
sorry, i MEANT nF not uF
forgive any confusion!
ANdyP
sorry, i MEANT nF not uF
forgive any confusion!
ANdyP
... just makin sure that dmp doesn't have a bunch of lytcs hangin off the board, wondering
dmp
Well-known member
Yes. thanks! I typed them wrong
My next one:
- changed front panel design
- added LED for EQ in
The OPAmps are not final, ignore the violet wire.
Front panel made by Frank Röllen/NRG Recording.
Does anyone know a good source for cool looking small knobs, especially for the 4mm shaft pots?
- changed front panel design
- added LED for EQ in
The OPAmps are not final, ignore the violet wire.
Front panel made by Frank Röllen/NRG Recording.
Does anyone know a good source for cool looking small knobs, especially for the 4mm shaft pots?
okgb
Well-known member
gonna need some panels somehow
Do you know how much or mind
if franks sells some more ?
Do you know how much or mind
if franks sells some more ?
ethervalve
Well-known member
I just finished my 169 using ne5534s throughout. What a simple, affordable and great-sounding project--thanks Audiox and Gustav!
Now, if only some enterprising individual were to jump in and start selling cheap and simple front panels...
Now, if only some enterprising individual were to jump in and start selling cheap and simple front panels...
skipwave
Well-known member
RedNoise said:
Those both show "Shaft diameter: 6,3mm"
Similar threads
