Hmm, sounds interesting...But in another hand I can machine SDC bodies in the most appropriate metal with the good thread for MkII capsules !
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Jan
Hmm, sounds interesting...But in another hand I can machine SDC bodies in the most appropriate metal with the good thread for MkII capsules !
I must ask "my buddy" who does all my metal gear. Myself, I don't care about cosmetic so a bronze or inox body (for ex.) would suit me. For a black body I must see with him but in any case it's gonna be about painting...Hmm, sounds interesting...What would you charge for two bodies? I'd like to have them in the same matte black finishing as the capsules. Would that be feasible? Or would I have to air brush paint them?
Jan
I would say brass or aluminium would be best.I must ask "my buddy" who does all my metal gear. Myself, I don't care about cosmetic so a bronze or inox body (for ex.) would suit me. For a black body I must see with him but in any case it's gonna be about painting...
We need non magnetic metal : have you guys some recommandation ?
About the diameter of the body and the step of the threading I must buy a MkII and measure the capsule. About the thickness of the body it depends on the chosen metal's strenght and rigidity (but I'm thinking of 2mm thick)
Now, the circuit... is it still Jan stuff ? could he do on a 19mm width board ? which length knowing that XLR connector will certainly be soldered at it ?
The capsule exists, the electronic board has to be designed (also mechanically) and then we'll know how to manage with the body...
2 other alternatives :
- print a 3D body (my "metal friend" does it also very well)
- cut the capsule holder (of course professionally) and adpat it to a new body > I don't know what is in the thread part : could @MicUlli show us a close pict ? There should be some connector... by keeping the capsule holder one could exchange capsule or body with real Schoeps
What do y'all not like about the stock CM-63 capsule?; I think it sounds quite nice.Sure! There are a number of really usefull mods described in this thread, nicely summarized by @Voyager10.
You specifically mentioned to pair the CM-63 with the 3U capsules, but it yields a slightly different tonality when compared to the CM-60 + 3U combo, which I liked better. It's a bit flatter in the highs. I assume the differences are caused by the different back chamber and slots design. I'd suggest to also consider the Alctron T-02A instead of the CM-63, which I expect to sound identical to the CM-60.
You can hear the tonal differences in @joulupukki 's Blind Test (link below). Though both the CM-60 and CM-63 have slightly different KM84 style circuits, both circuuts are dead-flat in the highs, so I'd reason that tonal differences in the highs should be caused by the capsule/body combination.
Thread 'Four KM-84 Clones - Blind Test' https://groupdiy.com/threads/four-km-84-clones-blind-test.89135/
Having done the KM84 "project", the S502 Mk2 capsule similarities with a Schoeps MK4 triggered me to pick up cloning a CMC6 MK4 as the next project. Just not with a standard Schoeps circuit, but my own.
Jan
I would say aluminium shouldn‘t be first choice because of the fine threads (pitch is 0.3mm IIRC). Brass would be nice!I would say brass or aluminium would be best.
I would say aluminium shouldn‘t be first choice because of the fine threads (pitch is 0.3mm IIRC). Brass would be nice!
Hello Ulli, great design, but I miss the two potentiometers in the Vpol circuit, they are very handy to even out small differences in the sensitivity of the capsules!Hi All,
The S502 "repair kit" circuit schematic is now finished. Here is the circuit...
If you have a 502 1st version a lot of components become superfluous (the dcdc-converter is not needed)...
Maybe, but i swear on trimpot free designsHello Ulli, great design, but I miss the two potentiometers in the Vpol circuit, they are very handy to even out small differences in the sensitivity of the capsules!
OOps, that is not correctHi
according to Jan measurements (he's got a MKII version) a first drawing of the mic body...
- 19,2mm is the largest width so the whole mic outside diameter could be (19,2mm thread + 1mm thickness x 2) = 21,2mm - or 22mm -
- we must go with some brass tube which width should be something about 18mm inside / 22mm outside : 18mm inside to cut out for the interface diameter (18,8mm) and for the thread diameter (19,2mm)
- below the interface collar the tube can be cut (by the XLR side) to get 1mm thick
- the interface can be glued with epoxy...
So the mic body could be machined in one brass tube piece... (I must check that but I'm confident)
Ok... I don't own one so I'll check that carefully when I'll receive my micOOps, that is not correct
The capsules have an inner thread, not an outer one!
Spot on!I would say aluminium shouldn‘t be first choice because of the fine threads (pitch is 0.3mm IIRC). Brass would be nice!
I think brass is the good choice... (the only thing is that fingers mark brass so you have to regulary "clean" the mic with some cloth, but that's not an issue...)Spot on!
I would even say that aluminium shouldn't be a choice at all.
Regular threads in aluminium tend to jam badly. High friction coefficient. Fine threading would be a nightmare. Most people would probably end with non-removable capsule.
And there's electrocorrosion issue as well, when alu comes in contact with copper, brass, steel etc.
Finger prints - true, but only on a new body or a regularly cleaned oneI think brass is the good choice... (the only thing is that fingers mark brass so you have to regulary "clean" the mic with some cloth, but that's not an issue...)
You mean adonized alu is out of question ? why if it's not conductive and "inert" because of adonization ?Anodized layer is non-conductive.
@Khron already warned about potential electrical conductivity problems with raw aluminium.
Anodized is out of question entirely.