[looks more like heaters are just in wrong spot] -- Where??? How???
[Excellent!] -- Newly updated schematic is available. See my earlier response.
Why would I take time to draw something out when you are the one offering up a condensed version to reflect Dave's mods to the 1954 Limiter? It's great that you're doing that. It's all kinda there already anyhow.
[I think we need to add one ground connection in the side chain tube rectifier/time network] -- I didn't tie the bottom heater connection to GROUND because I don't see a "connection junction point" where the switch "OFF" position crosses over the heater output line. So, while you can see a "connection junction point" at either end of the .1uF capacitor and another pair of "connection junction points" at either end of the 390-Ohm resistor, I just don't see the same "small black blob" at the crossover junction location where the "OFF" position crosses over the heater connection. Tough call, huh???
[Maybe could ditch the heater connections to free up some space?] -- Perhaps you may be unaware of the fact that there is a significant difference between a "hand-drawn" schematic and one that is created using a modern CAD-system, especially when a PCB-design will be the end result of going through the schematic drawing process. What this means is.....should a PCB-design be the end result of an electronic CAD-created schematic, then all of the component pins need to be shown -- AND -- connected to "something" in order for the correct "netlist" data file to be generated so a PCB can be accurately and properly designed. It is as simple as that.
The heaters in Dave's circuit are DC afaik. Would have to go back an read through..
[The heaters in Dave's circuit are DC afaik / a 6.3VAC signal is used for tube balancing] -- And.....this is one item that I find to be rather confusing in Dave's circuit. There is one set of a 6.3VAC voltage used to power the tubes filaments, yet there is another separate 6.3VAC used as the "Balance". Then, to somewhat further complicate things as you have pointed out which is different than the original, Dave's circuit has the heaters running off of a DC voltage.
Hey, sorry I didn't answer this. Yeah, the 6.3AC heater does indeed hit the 'balance' switch (it wouldn't work otherwise) before hitting the rectifier and becoming DC.
>> Would it be asking of you too much to review the "electronic version" schematic that I have posted in Post #121 and kindly inform me of any additions/changes/deletions/updates to it? I would really like to come up with a final and completely accurate and correct version of this schematic that can be "100% TRUSTED"!!! Is that possible for you to do?
The only issue is that there are some resistor values that can change depending upon the tube you have (the voltage regulator is the most extreme example, cause of the high W requirement it can't take a normal pot, but biasing the voltage regulator is in the data sheet). I also added biasing pots into the actual build when I made it. If you don't mind excluding these items and leaving that up to the discretion of the builder, sure I can verify.
