the Poor Man 660 support thread

[Moby]

@moby
ok i can see a major difference in the voltage after the bridge  mine is reading about 451v thats over 150v more , whats wrong here ? have my caps gone bad.

thanks for the refs are they wit the 660 boards connect or without.


skal1

Huh, check how you connected the  transformer. It looks like you "did" something. Disconnect it and measure  just the sec's of TX. Which one U use? I'm not familiar with recommended ones because I use custom TX.
Voltages are unloaded.

 

[skal1]

i used  bernbrues transformers for my build. ac out 2 black wires = 340v Ac.


seems like this transformer has gone cuput..

reading about 450v dc when rectified  Huh.

It was working perfect up until i drop psu , but say that i have always had an issue with getting the psu to work from the start of the build.

So this means that tx is naf i guess


skal1

 

[jdbakker]

reading about 450v dc when rectified  Huh.

Loaded or unloaded?

JDB.

 

[skal1]

reading about 450v dc when rectified  Huh.

Loaded or unloaded?

JDB.

unloaded 450v at the rectifier


skal1

 

[bernbrue]

How did you wire the primaries? Have you got 230V over there? The primary has got two windings, 115V each.
regards
Bernd

 

[skal1]

How did you wire the primaries? Have you got 230V over there? The primary has got two windings, 115V each.
regards
Bernd

My pm was working before this , and All the other taps are alright ,  so i just think the transformer has gone high on the 250v secondary tap , how would i knock the secondary down ?



skal1

 

[skal1]

BUMP


Skal1

 

[TheGuitarist]

Just wondering what people are using for time restraint and bypass rotary switches.

I can find 30degree switches, but it seems for 6 positions, that is too wide for purushas cases. I've seen a few people with purusha cases or even other cases with maybe 20degree spacings between the numbers? And i just cant find anything for the TC (i'll be using SCAMP booster) or the bypass.

Any help would be great.

 

[radiance]

Moby,

wiring is OK, tried several tubes. how do i check the transformers then ? measuring resistance and check for leaking from primary to secundary ?

Ask CJ about meassuring trannies...


..are your rotaries OK as well?

 

[elektrovolt]

well, I soldered the rotaries like the spreadsheet that was posted first, but much later some people disagreed with this one - so I did not use it yet.
instead, I am using dual pots at the moment. tested them, they seem to track quite good. I have replaced them also.

the poorman is sitting somewhere in a box now because we are moving next week.
so I hope to get on with it in some weeks...

EDIT:
I couldn't resist trying again. but still...
measured and changed the transformers. changed the tubes again and the wiring too.
tried without tubes. voltages ok. tried with tubes. voltages come up. but after the filaments start to glow, the voltages go down again. they measure always the same:
60V on the 245 line, and 30V on the 136 line.
then I disconnected the filament slowstart board. voltages go up again. same with the other slowstart pcb.

does this mean that both the slowstart boards are faulty, or just something else?

 

[radiance]

Have you tried powering the filaments (with DC) withouth the slow start boards? 

 

[[silent:arts]]

does this mean that both the slowstart boards are faulty, or just something else?

thermal shut down?

 

[elektrovolt]

slowstart boards seem to be fine. connected the rectified filament power directly to the board.
no difference

 

[radiance]

slowstart boards seem to be fine. connected the rectified filament power directly to the board.
no difference

rectified power?... coming from PSU or slow start pcb?  

...maybe something wrong with your power toroid??

Try connecting something to the heater secondaries which draws about the same current as the boards with tubes.
Maybe buy a couple of heavy resistors (stuut sels ceramic ones which are cheaper than those aluminum ones) to construct some kind of variable dummy load...
This way you can find out at which current draw your toroid craps out....

EDIT: it has been said before but the heater secondaries (from the EU groupbuy toroid) are under specced for the poorman. Might be a good idea to buy another 9V toroid with enough juice to lighten the burden of the other one. Worst case you buy a second toroid big enough to handle ALL heater current...that is at least 9A or 10A.

 

[elektrovolt]

rectified power, yes. just from the bridge rectifier.
but I don't think the heaters draw too much current and cause these problems. i tried your idea, as i still had some of those ceramic resistors from an older project.

when the heaters start to glow, the high voltages are dropping. if the heaters cause the problem, the high voltages should stay low from the moment the unit is turned on.
at the moment the tubes start to work, the voltages are dropping. something tells me that the PSU board can't handle the working tubes.
measured the resistors in the high voltage circuit and they all seem to be ok. could it be one of the MPSA's ? i don't really know what they are though ( HV amplifiers ok, but.. ???)

 

[radiance]

Could be the mpsa's...did you test/replace them?
Also, maybe try powering the heaters with another toroid ,or a lab psu that can handle the current...

 

[TheGuitarist]

Just wondering what people are using for time restraint and bypass rotary switches.

I can find 30degree switches, but it seems for 6 positions, that is too wide for purushas cases. I've seen a few people with purusha cases or even other cases with maybe 20degree spacings between the numbers? And i just cant find anything for the TC (i'll be using SCAMP booster) or the bypass.

Any help would be great.

nobody?

 

[radiance]

Just wondering what people are using for time restraint and bypass rotary switches.

I can find 30degree switches, but it seems for 6 positions, that is too wide for purushas cases. I've seen a few people with purusha cases or even other cases with maybe 20degree spacings between the numbers? And i just cant find anything for the TC (i'll be using SCAMP booster) or the bypass.

Any help would be great.

nobody?

20 degrees spacing would give you a 18 position switch which is quite rare...I think 30 degree switches is what that panel is designed for...did you try a 12 pos lorlin? (or a 6 pos 2 pole?)

 

[TheGuitarist]

nah, the numbers aren't quite flat. like 180 degrees, they are slightly less.

http://purusha.smokinggunrecording.com/diy/PM6602UR.jpg

thats why i asked.

Ahh well, looks like the switch won't line up with numbers. Not a big deal.

 

[radiance]

nah, the numbers aren't quite flat. like 180 degrees, they are slightly less.

http://purusha.smokinggunrecording.com/diy/PM6602UR.jpg

thats why i asked.

Ahh well, looks like the switch won't line up with numbers. Not a big deal.

I don't understand...what you mean with "the numbers aren't quite flat. like 180 degrees, they are slightly less"?

To me it looks like they will line up. Have you tried with a 6 position switch?