the Poor Man 660 support thread

[SaMpLeGoD]

Hey thanks I just asked because I order only 4 ceramic sockets... cause I already have some plastic ones hanging arround!
ok ok ok ok ok ok... I'll order all ceramic!

Thankssssss
Cheers,

Eddie  ;D

 

[[silent:arts]]

I'll order all ceramic!

you won't regret it ;D

 

[SaMpLeGoD]

Ok, did it already!

hehehehe... thanks!

Eddie

 

[okgb]

As in the psu  , i can't imagine that a 121k resister would be much different than 120k ,
was it spec'ed that because of the 1% tolerance  or is there really a design reason ?

this thread could almost use it's own xfmr questions thread [ and or a good cleaning ,
still working through it to gather parts , thanks ]

 

[Knarleybass]

was there ever a slow starter psu hookup diagram ever posted?

 

[Moby]

was there ever a slow starter psu hookup diagram ever posted?

http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=28274.800

 

[Knarleybass]

do I hook up the slow start psu to the heater inputs on the PSU660 board and put a jumper in place of R5
15?
Also are the in's and out's of the slow start PSU polarized?

 

[[silent:arts]]

sorry Knarleybass, I'm a little bit bussy at the moment :'(

- just go from the (off board) rectifier to the AC IN of the slow start PCB. no need for the heater circuit on the PSU660.
- GND goes to your star ground
- input right side should be the + from the rectifier

hope this helps

 

[rrs]

RE: Codered's Avell Lindberg Toroid.

Now that they have arrived I just want to be sure on how to wire it. Here's the colour code.
http://picasaweb.google.com/edcor670/AvelLindbergPM670ToroidalTransformer#

Deciphering this stuff is not my strong point  :

Expecialy the primarys I usualy only have 2 wires to worry about.

So far I have worked out.

Orange and White go to the Rectifier
The 2 Black go to AC
Green to Ground
Red and yellow go to AC250 (does it matter which of the two)?

;D

:-*

 

[okgb]

Matta touched on it , but  [ and more so where the power supply
is concerned ]
Is it better to get the 1% resister values or the 1/2w
if i can't find the both in one part ?

tia

 

[Kingston]

I'm not at all familiar with all the high current regulator options out there, but I was wondering...

the slow start heater regulator can't handle enough current for 2 channel operation. Why wasn't a better suited regulator selected for this task? Why wasn't it designed so that it would handle the current for 2 channels?

Seems a bit counter productive to have two of them side by side.

 

[okgb]

I believe it was made for more than just the 660
but also for people who only wanted mono

seems most versitile option , no ?

anybofy answer  which is preferable 1% or 1/2 w ?

 

[Kingston]

I believe it was made for more than just the 660
but also for people who only wanted mono

seems most versitile option , no ?

well, no.

most versatile would have been a design that caters for all those three options (mono, stereo, other). Now that I look at it, I believe Moby only wanted it for his mono channel, hence he didn't bother with more exhaustive design.

Wish I had the skills for an update. Only like 0.5A more juice needed there.

anybofy answer  which is preferable 1% or 1/2 w ?

Well you could have both. 0.6W 1% resistors are almost as cheap as 0.25W 1% these days.

Example:

http://www.banzaieffects.com/10k-MF-0-25W-pr-17053.html
http://www.banzaieffects.com/10k-RES-0-6W-pr-27506.html

They (or Farnell) pretty much have all sizes. Although Farnell forces you to buy bags of 50 most of the time (which is still dirt cheap at 3euros)

 

[emrr]

Most versatile is an adjustable tap resistor.  ;D  Meets the KISS test, unlikely to ever fail, and has stood the test of time for many many decades. 

 

[Kingston]

Most versatile is an adjustable tap resistor.  ;D  Meets the KISS test, unlikely to ever fail, and has stood the test of time for many many decades. 

I realise that, and have done solely that in the past. But since I've already invested so heavily in other areas of the compressor, I thought I'd fix this one as well.

Let's see,

feedback/feedforward and midside selection,
highly tweakable time constant networks (by me, and not the useless 25-second release legacy stuff from fairchild) with some "automatics" involved ie. parallel/serial network combos.

I'll probably end up replacing at least the input trafos as well.

Thought I'd make this less of an oven and more a highly tweakable all-around compressor. The somewhat-poorman.

 

[okgb]

I'm in Canada and it was that i couldn't easily find 1 % AND 1/2w
in the right values .

Have you checked out the " pimping the 660 " thread ?

 

[Kingston]

Have you checked out the " pimping the 660 " thread ?

of course I have. and will contribute as soon as I find the time to finish this.

 

[[silent:arts]]

most versatile would have been a design that caters for all those three options (mono, stereo, other). Now that I look at it, I believe Moby only wanted it for his mono channel, hence he didn't bother with more exhaustive design.

Wish I had the skills for an update. Only like 0.5A more juice needed there.

it is not like 0.5A more juice ...
5A is the limit of the regulator, but we don't want to come even close to the limit.
a little bit over the half is fine and save.
for sure there are regulators (and PSUs) which can handle a higher current, but they are much more expensive and / or more complicated to handle.
some people are asking for a wiring guide for this heater PSU, which is just two wires in / two wires out.
how should they handle - lets say - a regulator with off board mounted TO3 cases ?

the schematic Moby provided is just the right solution for this application, and two of this PCBs can be mounted on top of each other with the regulators connected to the back of the chassis (insulated of course).

just my 2 cents

 

[Moby]

Now that I look at it, I believe Moby only wanted it for his mono channel, hence he didn't bother with more exhaustive design.

Actually it's possible to use one board for stereo unit but you need a lot of cooling  for LM and as Volker stated you are close to the current limit what's not good idea. I use two boards for stereo unit and it's safe  ;D Also, boards and parts are cheap so there is no problem about two of them.  It's possible to design something similar for more current with adding power transistor but at the end result will be just more parts on one board for about same price as two LM's .About wiring diagram , well it's so simple that figuring out will take less time than drawing 

 

[okgb]

some of the TO 220 size devices i can only find with a sufixe
AB , digikey couldn't tell me exactly what specified
anyone here know  ? or know if it matters ?

Also if the heatsinks are not attached to anything ,
then shouldn't need the insulators right ?