the Poor Man 660 support thread

[rrs]

Sounds right for 230 VAC primary connection.  You are on 240V 50 Hz there, right?  So you will see slightly higher voltages because of that. 

Yes we run on 240V. I here it's more 250V. The day I initialy tested the unit we had terrible bushfires and was the hottest day in history here in Melbourne so voltages then may have been off due to excess power consumption. The latest mesurement should be more normal.

So are you saying the 401V and 218V I am getting is are ok ?

I have visualy checked everything and seems the board's components are correct.

 

[emrr]

Yes we run on 240V. I here it's more 250V. The day I initialy tested the unit we had terrible bushfires and was the hottest day in history here in Melbourne so voltages then may have been off due to excess power consumption. The latest mesurement should be more normal.

So are you saying the 401V and 218V I am getting is are ok ?

I don't have one to measure, so I can't say.  I would think something is not right in the B+ chain since you are getting too high readings with load.    Even up to 250 VAC input, the 14V at no filament load is higher than rated.  We need a comparative measurement from another known working unit with this toroid. 

Hey, you haven't said if it's passing sound in both channels.  You might as well listen since it should have already caught fire if it was prone to do so. 

The fires sound terrible, the death toll unimaginable.  I hope you and yours are not directly affected. 

 

[rrs]

Us city dwellers are OK Doug but still distressing knowing there not that far away.

Anyway.
Havn't run audio throught it but not really prepared to keep running it longer than I have to. The Meters (Sifam Vintage ones) though are flat all the way to the right.

I may have to wait to see what others may be doing.

The only thing I couldn't check were the diodes as there a little small to read but are the right way arround. I am very confident I have the right components on and no soldering bridges.Have purchase everything from the BOM on the first page. I thought if I went by the book on this one all would be fine.

All my DIY stuff since my first build works first time so I am feeling something is faulty.





If the guys in US are finding things are OK with 120V than maybe I can try using it that way with a stepdown transformer.

 

[klaus2you]

Noulou, thank you for your reply! It's been really helpfull,  wiring was fine but one of my lorlin was faulty. Regarding the meter i originaly put a 22K trim in place of R6 but was afraid to go so low, but you where right two turn of trimmer after my vu finaly read 0.
For those who used sifam AL20SQ like me, substitute R6 22K with a 47ohm or little higher.

Noulou again, thanks!

 

[rrs]

Just an update.
I have measured the Voltages coming from my Avil Lindburg toroid:  http://picasaweb.google.com/edcor670/AvelLindbergPM670ToroidalTransformer#

240V going in Blue and Brown , Violet and grey tied together.

Black  .... 7.32V  .....to AC
Green .... 7.78V  .....to GND
Black ..... 22.4 V  ....to AC
Red ....... 173 V   ....AC 250V
Yellow ....98.3V    ....AC250V
Orange ... 10.9V   ....to Heater Rectifier
White .....1.10V   .....to heater Rectifier

To me this seems very wrong

Con someone who has the same tranni please confirm if they get similar results?

 

[emrr]

Your corrections appear correct by color code, but B+ and +/- 17 appear to have no ground reference, and instead allowed to float above ground.  Check that all ground/B- points are made properly and have nearly zero resistance.  Also confirm you have 30ish VAC from black to black.

 

[rrs]

Just an update.
I have measured the Voltages coming from my Avil Lindburg toroid:  http://picasaweb.google.com/edcor670/AvelLindbergPM670ToroidalTransformer#

240V going in Blue and Brown , Violet and grey tied together.

Black  .... 7.32V  .....to AC
Green .... 7.78V  .....to GND
Black ..... 22.4 V  ....to AC
Red ....... 173 V   ....AC 250V
Yellow ....98.3V    ....AC250V
Orange ... 10.9V   ....to Heater Rectifier
White .....1.10V   .....to heater Rectifier

To me this seems very wrong

Con someone who has the same tranni please confirm if they get similar results?

I forgot to mention these mesurements are with no load. According to the winding diagram red should be 279 (no loaod), Both Black 17.5 (no load) ect... . Infact only white and Orange seem correct.
Does it indicate the TX is faulty or are my novice skills showing.

 

[emrr]

trans doesn't look faulty. 

 

[rrs]

Thanks.

So much for being confident I havn't stuffed up. :

 

[bernbrue]

David,
the primary connection is allright for 230/240V countries. Could you measure again between red/yellow, should be around 279 VAC no load, orange white 10,2 VAC, green/black 17,5 VAC and between green/other black about the same?
regards
Bernd

 

[rrs]

David,
the primary connection is allright for 230/240V countries. Could you measure again between red/yellow, should be around 279 VAC no load, orange white 10,2 VAC, green/black 17,5 VAC and between green/other black about the same?
regards
Bernd

Ok

between Red/Yellow is 294V, Orange/ White is 10.83, Green/ Black 18.65, other Black/Green 18.75.
There a little high I guess but I am assuming it's not the transformer that is causing my problem.

I have meticulously checked that all components are correct .Have used the buzzer on my multimeter to check all ground points are connected and solders joints are good.
Is there any specific components I should check or replace?

 

[bernbrue]

Sounds right to me, you just need a smaller dropping resistor. 

Do you use the extra heater pcb or the heater on the main PSU. If main PSU, bridge one side of heater voltage to ground as shown here:

regards
Bernd

 

[rrs]

Thanks Bernd

I am using the Heater on the Main PSU.

So can I just run a wire from the Heater Rectifier - connector Pin to Ground Connector Pin that is next to it ?

Will try tonight when I get home. I'm shure what you have circled is not on my PCB. I have notice looking at your build thought that you have something here just can't quite see.

 

[[silent:arts]]

... I'm shure what you have circled is not on my PCB...

this jumper is only on rec01 PSU PCBs we used for prototyping.
at rev02 PCBs the minus coming from the rectifier has a fixed connection to ground directly at the screw terminal.

 

[rrs]

thanks Volker.

That I guess in confirmed as I am getting exactly the same measurements. 400V where I should have 245V and 218V where I should have 136V.

I'm at a complete loss here.

 

[[silent:arts]]

measure DC to ground from the anode of D8
measure DC to ground from the cathode of D8
any difference ?

do the same with D9 ...

double check if the zener diodes are correct
(D7 & D10)

 

[rrs]

D9 Anode = 392V
D9 Cathode = 211V

D8 Anode = 392V
D8 Cathode = 394V

1n4747 and 1n4764 look to be correct parts. Though they are small I cannot makeout all numbers.

 

[Moby]

1n4747 and 1n4764 look to be correct parts. Though they are small I cannot makeout all numbers.

I always use magnifying glass to read small diodes 

 

[[silent:arts]]

D9 Anode = 392V
D9 Cathode = 211V

D8 Anode = 392V
D8 Cathode = 394V

looks like your first regulator (around Q4) doesn't work

 

[skal1]

hey i just finished stuffing psu ,can i power it up with a load or will this cause damage to the psu


regards

skal1