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Steve Jones

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Joined
Jun 4, 2004
Messages
506
Location
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Buy a cheap drill press! You will be happy you did every time you use it.

Before you start your project:

Go to the electronics store and buy an "M3" kit, ie: a couple of bags of black M3 screws in a couple of lengths, flat washers, star washers, nuts, (self locking with nylon inserts even better) solder tags, nylon spacers, metal spacers, a tiny ring spanner to suit the nuts, and keep them all together as a kit, you will soon realize how often you need to use these things when you are building anything.

Ditto for a bag of small cable ties, and if you are of that bent, some lacing twine and a needle.

Buy a GOOD pair of diagonal cutters, and a sheetmetal nibbling tool.

ALWAYS use a centre punch, and always drill a pilot hole. Always carefully mark out your metalwork and re-check before centrepunching.

Check each resistor with a multimeter before putting it in. It can be very difficult to faultfind a circuit with wrong resistors and it is a real pain looking for wrong values once the board is built. There is nothing worse than looking for a fault if you don't even know if the correct components are in the PCB!

Always use IC sockets.

Power up the device in stages - (this is why it is good to use IC sockets) - first check the output of the mains transformer secondaries before you connect them to the PCB. This verifies the mains wiring. If it is good, remove all the IC's or tubes, run up the unit and see if the DC supply rails on the board are good, thus verifying the rectifiers and regulators. Only then plug in the expensive bits and re-power.

Finally, if your house doesn't have them, spend the 20 bucks and get one of those mains extension leads with an earth leakage breaker on it, and plug your DIY into it as you work to give yourself some extra protection. Remember also to get into the habit of checking that the unit is indeed off before you plug or unplug chips or tubes.
 
this thread is genius.

i have a 'homemade current limiter box'

lightbulbs in series with outlet all with switches (3 bulbs -- 40w/60w/100w)

its nice for testing solidstate amps!

-bryan

bluetack!
yes!
 
Testing if the iron is warm enough

When soldering the second plug on a cable: always check
that the shell & the other bits & pieces are not still idling away
on your bench...

... not all plugs are like for instance the Neutrik jacks
where you can't do this wrong.

We've all been there... :wink: :?
 
them damn neutriks even fool me every now and then...
there's still one item to slide over the cable first :oops:
when things need to go fast, they go wrong :?
 
them damn neutriks even fool me every now and then...
there's still one item to slide over the cable first

You're right - I thought nothing could go wrong with the 'open' cable- clamp but we still have that last piece. :cry:

Bye,

Peter
 
I hold a piece of solder in my mouth when I need a third hand.
Please, no crap about lead poisoning. Been doing it for 40 years.
Make sure the chassis is unplugged when doing this!
cj
 
Well, not really a trick but when working on the chassis make sure that all steel/ aluminium fibers and dust are gone when you're finished. Also watchout for small pieces off wire wich may be left behind.

I had a short because off this. Well actually I could not find a short, only a very small piece off wire which was laying around. When testing the unit everything was back to normal so I supose the wire caused it.
 
Build a few Handy Things....

Two small crocodile clips minus their plastic boots, soldered to the ends of a 10cm length of 1.6mm (16swg) tinned copper wire. It's a portable on-site "helping hands". Clip one clip onto a support in the equipment, and bend the other clip to hold the wire you need to support while soldering.

Transformers in boxes with XLR's and jacks and ground-lift switch between pin 1's. Just too useful. I think at last count I had about 6. Just great problem solvers for ground problems and general interfacing bal/unbal. Also for connecting unbal test equipment to balanced gear.

A 12V fan in an ABS project box with activated charcoal foam filter. Those 5cm PC fans are ideal. Keep solder fumes out 'yer face for good!

Mini-decade boxes. Great for troubleshooting and design- get a single pole 12-position rotary switch and connect different value caps or resistors to it in most-used values. When made small with short leads, invaluable for quick component substitution and comparison.

A Box Of Connectors- get a small die-cast box and fit as many different jacks, XLR's, phonos, BNC's and other connectors as you can fit. Solder them all together (with switches for different configs with 3-pole to 2-pole) You'll wonder how you got on without it...no REALLY!

Great thread, keep it coming!

Mark
 
Not really the same thing, but here's something that's proven useful to me.

I never fail to forget a simple part or two whenever I place a digikey order, and with their $5 handling fee, and shipping costs it usually doesn't pay to order one or two things until next time. Problem is...I usually forget!

I have now registered my name on the digikey website, and whenever I find that I need something I go there and add it to a running order. Orders stay in the queue for 30 days since last viewing, and you can have as many as you want. I have a general parts order always running, as well as several project orders that I won't close out until I have all the needed parts added.

When I figure I have a large enough order I go ahead and comit. This saves me from having to keep track of a paper list (it stays in the website), it can be accessed from anywhere I can get on the net, and I am not always looking up part numbers.

Shane
 
Ah. "Parrafin" in the USA is used to mean a kind of wax, like the stuff that you might seal food into jars with. in the UK, "Parrafin" is a basically fuel used for camping 'storm lamps', I believe that it's similar to aircraft fuel, Diesel fuel etc. and is basically the stuff known in the USA as Kerosene.

i.e. a "Parrafin lamp" in the UK is a "Kerosene lamp" in the USA.

Another word for inclusion in the SSLtech Brit-to-yankee technical dictionary!

:wink:

Keef
 
[quote author="SSLtech"]Ah. "Parrafin" in the USA is used to mean a kind of wax, like the stuff that you might seal food into jars with. in the UK, "Parrafin" is a basically fuel used for camping 'storm lamps', I believe that it's similar to aircraft fuel, Diesel fuel etc. and is basically the stuff known in the USA as Kerosene.

i.e. a "Parrafin lamp" in the UK is a "Kerosene lamp" in the USA.

Another word for inclusion in the SSLtech Brit-to-yankee technical dictionary!

:wink:

Keef[/quote]

As G.B. Shaw said, "The Engish and the Americans - two peoples seperated by a common language"

:green:
 
[quote author="dramadisease"]could you detail a bit more about the use of parrafin (wax?)[/quote]

I worked in a place that had three machine shops and all they used was alcohol on the drill presses, bridgeports, etc. it was cheap, it evaporated when done working...you only had to apply a bit of it every few seconds from a squirt bottle to the work for it to remain cool and lubricated. It wasn't anywhere as messy or smelly as kerosene.
TP
 
Ah. "Parrafin" in the USA is used to mean a kind of wax, like the stuff that you might seal food into jars with. in the UK, "Parrafin" is a basically fuel used for camping 'storm lamps', I believe that it's similar to aircraft fuel, Diesel fuel etc. and is basically the stuff known in the USA as Kerosene.

It's actually the same stuff-just in a wax form. IE people shouldn't really be using parafin candles in their homes-or putting solder in their mouths for that matter :wink:

Joel
 
From a newbie.... shout if this is grandma sucking eggs territory
I put all my parts and the schematics/PCB layouts I am working on into one of those resealable sandwich bags along with a parts list taped to the front
If I am missing parts then when new parts come in I have ordered I put them into the sandwich bag and update the list on the front

Thus if I have many projects on the go - I am not double counting parts in my component boxes - and find out I have lost some to another project (very frustrating)

Obviously I look after the delicate parts - polystyrene on the bottom of transformers...

Then when I come to stuff the boards I just take out the sandwich bag and get on with it...if I don;t complete in time - then the sandwich bag goes back into the to do box and I put some PCB spacers on the PCB and leave it somewhere safe (i.e. high and away from the kids)
 
[quote author="uk03878"]From a newbie.... shout if this is grandma sucking eggs territory
I put all my parts and the schematics/PCB layouts I am working on into one of those resealable sandwich bags along with a parts list taped to the front
If I am missing parts then when new parts come in I have ordered I put them into the sandwich bag and update the list on the front

Thus if I have many projects on the go - I am not double counting parts in my component boxes - and find out I have lost some to another project (very frustrating)

Obviously I look after the delicate parts - polystyrene on the bottom of transformers...

Then when I come to stuff the boards I just take out the sandwich bag and get on with it...if I don;t complete in time - then the sandwich bag goes back into the to do box and I put some PCB spacers on the PCB and leave it somewhere safe (i.e. high and away from the kids)[/quote]

That's all OK as long as the parts in the bag aren't static sensitive....many thousands of volts of static electricity can be generated just by slipping the parts in and out of the bag...if parts come to you in a static shielded bag, it's best to leave them in it until they're ready to be used....this goes especially for fets. and you do have a ground strap on your wrist when you install them, right?? :wink:

TP
 

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