tl-audio m3 tubetracker dismantling

[scott2000]

i'm in need of a Gain Potmeter for the M3 - Alpha RV16, dual, one layer 05C5K (rev. log), one layer B10K, is someone aware who could have them in stock?

That sure is a strange one. Is that also a collet type knob? What type shaft?

 

[Bjorn Andersson]

i'm in need of a Gain Potmeter for the M3 - Alpha RV16, dual, one layer 05C5K (rev. log), one layer B10K, is someone aware who could have them in stock?

Check with Audio Related Technology
I got my TL Audio spare parts from them.

Cheers!

 

[Johan Brolund]

I broke a pin of this component A1k250 on the master (i dropped the backlid on it, after changeing tubes to genalux golden lions).

Do you think it could be fixed by soldering?

 

[Cqwet Dbdfte]

C38 1uF 250V?
Buy a new one, or if you are adventurous, remove some epoxy around the broken lead, solder in a new wire, secure with epoxy.

 

[Johan Brolund]

C38 1uF 250V?
Buy a new one, or if you are adventurous, remove some epoxy around the broken lead, solder in a new wire, secure with epoxy.

What type of component is it? Sorry i'm a total beginner. I find a C38 on the schematics but that page is labeled "ivory master mixer". Not sure if thats the correct schematic? Cant find any component online that looks like this one, but there must be several with the same function as this one i hope?!

 

[Cqwet Dbdfte]

Wrong schematic. There is no vacuum tube on it.
The part is most likely a film capacitor, "AV" brand? maybe 1uF 250V.
Desolder the part before working on it. The epoxy around the stump can be scraped off with an Xacto knife, don't go too deep or you'll short out the film layers. Or just buy a new cap.

 

[rock soderstrom]

The part is most likely a film capacitor, "AV" brand? maybe 1uF 250V.

Yes 1uf/250V, Arcotronics (MKP or MKT) capacitor, they are now under the distribution of Kemet.

 

[S.Samuelsson]

Hi.

Welcome to the Groupdiy forum Johan.

Do you think it could be fixed by soldering?

Possible, yes.
Feasible, no, unless You're in a hurry and need to have it working now, or You're located somewhere outside of the reach of the postal services.
Or for just gits an' shiggles, a previous experience of such a "broken lead in an epoxied part" repair could -IME will- come in handy somewhere along the road, regardless of whether it was a success or a failure.

If this was a poll, my vote would go for a new cap as well.

This:

Desolder the part before working on it. The epoxy around the stump can be scraped off with an Xacto knife, don't go too deep or you'll short out the film layers.

is the way to do it.
Resoldering an epoxied component that has been repaired like that onto a PCB is IME trickier than the repair itself if just a wire is used, the repair will detach very easily while resoldering.

One way to improve the possibility of a success is to gut a round contact DIL socket and use one contact as a repair.
Repairs like that are (/were) usually made onto passive cross overs in PA cabs when they broke during a set or on the road, and the tech person for a reason or another didn't have a spare at hand.
And extended leads were used, even if the cross over was a PCB-type.

Not sure if thats the correct schematic?

Just like Cqwet Dbdfte, said, incorrect schematic.
The correct one is (most likely) page 2 on the schematic on the page #1 of this thread, labelled: M3 Mixer Backplane.
Most likely, because I don't have any experience with M3, just VTC.

Regards,
Sam

 

[Bjorn Andersson]