blake1234 said:
I have a Trident Series 65 which I am having some noise issues with. It has 24 input channels and 8 group sends. Other than the number of channels, I'm assuming that all the schematics/mods discussed here are perfectly relevant to my board as well (please correct me if I'm wrong).
Yes, definitely the same schematics!
blake1234 said:
My problem is that I'm getting noise in my monitors - from the main stereo outputs - when everything is muted, unassigned, faders down and everything is unplugged from the rear. With the master fader down in this situation, there is a small amount of noise in the monitors: what I would call white noise, although I'm not sure if that's technically correct. It is a hissing/rushing-water kind of sound: I suppose the words buzz and hum could both be used to describe it. As I pull the master fader up, this noise increases. When the master fader is at unity, this noise is unacceptably loud. The noise persists even if I mute the master channel.
First question - are your monitors really plugged directly into the main stereo outputs? Or are they running through a DAW or monitor controller, which you are then sending to your monitors?
blake1234 said:
The noise persists even if I mute the master channel.
The master "mute" button affects only the monitor outs (on the schematic, it's labeled as "control room mute"). The main stereo outs ("remix o/p left" / "remix o/p right" on the schematics) are not affected by this button.
blake1234 said:
So first off I should ask if it would be plausible that the modifications discussed here could help my situation?
Maybe, too early to say...
I will get to some of the specific questions here, but for others I'd need to look back through notes and don't have quite enough time to find those right now.
blake1234 said:
When you say you converted insert send jacks to TRS (for ground separation) I believe you're referring to the GROUP inserts, but would this also help the channel insert sends/returns?
Yes, the same mod would help the channel insert sends & returns. However, I don't have any channel inserts wired up in my setup, so I didn't bother with them.
blake1234 said:
Did you leave the “momma to momma” jumper wires for power and ground in place, or remove them, and substitute with ONLY the 18ga run from the barrier terminal?
I did cut the momma-to-momma jumper wires for power and ground. In noise measurements before and after, I don't recall there being a significant difference (although I could double-check that when I have time), so if I was doing it again I would probably leave them in for redundancy.
blake1234 said:
How exactly did you mount the copper bus bar? This needs to be electrically isolated from the chassis right?
If you use 1/2" bus bar, you can squeeze it in along the top of the motherboard's metal mounting plane. Yes, the bar does need to be electrically isolated from the chassis. See the attached photo for a detail shot. (In this photo, the motherboard has been removed from the console.) I took out some of the existing small nuts along the top of the metal mounting plane, that attach it to the chassis bottom, and substituted them with the white plastic bolts and nuts that you see here (with plastic spacers to keep the bus bar lifted to about the same height as the metal mounting plane). With mounting holes drilled roughly centered in the bar, that leaves a consistent gap of about 1/8" between the bus bar and the motherboard mount.
It was kind of fiddly getting everything lined up right for that. If I'm remembering right, in order to get those mounting holes drilled in the right spots along the bar, I took all the metal nuts off the top of the motherboard mount, laid the copper bus bar flat along the top of the mount, temporarily taped it in place, and then used a Sharpie to mark the spots for the holes on bus bar from the bottom (poking up through the existing holes in the bottom of the chassis). Especially if you have several motherboards in your console (which, for a 24 channel Trident, you would), you cannot count on the mounting holes for one motherboard lining up exactly with the holes for another motherboard, and with only an 1/8" gap to play with, you need to be precise.
cheers,
Leigh