Veroboard instead of soldering strips

[rotation]

Hi,

i'm tired of waiting for expensive soldering strips (i can't get them locally) every time i want to make something with tubes. Beside this i would also like to play with different placement of material.
So i thought about using veroboard instead, with attached terminals like this:
http://www.banzaimusic.com/Vogt-1365C-Z-100-pieces.html
Those terminals are a little small, but i'm sure they will firmly hold attached components. And some veroboards seem to be solid, so i don't think they will break easily.
The only problem i can think of are sometimes very hot wires. Maybe so hot that solder which holds the terminals will melt, and terminals would fall out of the holes.? Well, this is probably not possible and i can design against it.
I think this solution is still better than some tag boards with sloppy terminals. I encountered all sort of problems with them; corrosion, bending, some of them even fall off..
One good thing about my solutions is that i can route components and wires the way i want and need.
What do you guys think, is my plan good or not? I know i will have to try this myself, but sometimes i want to just close the lid and use what i built.

Miha

 

[PRR]

> so hot that solder which holds the terminals will melt

Are you burning your amplifier??

Tubes don't melt solder. Fire up an eight-6550 (300 Watt) head, play outdoors in the summer, then rub solder all over it. The solder will not melt anywhere. (Even the places where careless skin got burnt onto the glass.)

Can you buy copper nails? (Try a boat-builder.) You may have to clean-off the oil or shellac they use to keep them shiny in the box, but they solder well and are plenty large to wrap leads.

Can you get copper eyelets, the rings used in shoes for shoe-laces? That's about what Leo Fender used: thin insulating board (and not always the good stuff), holes, eyelets and eyelet setting tool. Stick leads through, solder, trim excess.

 

[MartyMart]

I've used veroboard or "stripboard" for all kinds of projects.
Try to get the thicker "glass fiber" looking stuff rather than the brown boards and watch
for loose pieces of copper trace as they are close and can short when cut in a "sloppy" way.
( a 5mm drill bit or stripboard cutter is best )

For higher voltage "tracks" leave at least 2/3 track spaces between anything else.

Having said all that, I've used Phenolic and tag boards for amps with zero problems !

MM.