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This is the pcb I’ve made and using tropical fish 220nf and polystyrene 10nf all stock values for resistors but 4th is 10uf and transistors are BC109B measure 425hfe, fasel inductor measures 650mH with resistance of 18ohms, wah sounds pretty good now very close to that video, will wind a halo inductor to 500mH at 30ohms and see if it improves.
 
oh something I remember, it might be good to have some ambience (reverb) to get close to the recorded Hendrix sound. There was a "tone hound" guy on another forum some years back demo'ing his take on Hendrix wah sound (which I thought was pretty good--good playing, good tone) and he didn't mention the reverb that was there which seemed a teeny tiny bit disingenuous.
 
Rewinding inductor today as originally I wound it and it came out 550mH but was 75ohm, checked the wire gauge and was much smaller than 0.1mm but when I wound 460 turns of 0.1mm on only turns out as 120mH with 30ohm resistance.
The inductor core does say N48 630 so I’m assuming it’s probably the wrong strength ferrite?
Or I need to use bigger wire gauge and put on loads of turns!!
 
I don't have much of a clue about inductors (only in a very general sense (different core types), but FWIW, the previously mentioned MEF thread, the OP re-assembled a yellow Dunlop Fasel after it fell apart, and he found some glue residue in between the pot core halves. When he cleaned this and re-assembled, he reported the inductance going up. Also, on here (the author of both of the Japanese pages) :

https://lazyecology.web.fc2.com/reverb/mod/wah_pedal/index.html

(for a yellow Fasel purchased around 2003) he gives 132mH inductance and 19.5 ohms DCR, so perhaps similarly affected. On one of the Youtube inductor DIY vids, one guy seems to stress the importance of having the halves tightly together and uses superglue to fix them. Also I vaguely recall someone doing a bit of sanding (but I think that was to reduce the value slightly?).

(going a bit aside, re: yellow Fasel, I found this: )

https://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?t=27868

So it looks like Dunlop went to a toroidal core for the yellow Fasels instead of a a pot core for some reason. Wonder if they were having some production issue.

Also, this Japanese guy does the Hendrix licks pretty well and also engages in some DIY:

 
N30 ferrite core material seems to be the standard.
N48 is 630nH
N30 is ? Will look up

I rewound the inductor with 0.14mm and got 700 turns on there, ended up being 29ohms at 300mH.
I couldn’t get anything else on there so I’m pretty sure that’s as far as that core will go, need N30 and then should be fine with 450 turns ish with 0.1mm to get 30ohms.
 
I have this from Geoffrey Teese (though it's not showing up searching the site though google) :

source: http://www.phpbbserver.com/freestompboxes/viewtopic.php?t=1405&mforum=freestompboxes

Geoffrey Teese
Joined: 09 Sep 2007
Posts: 27

Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 9:28 pm

The Budda wah is manufactured by Dunlop for, and to the "specs" of, Budda.

FYI - The N30 material used in the pictured inductor is reportedly the material used in the original Italian Fasel inductors. I cannot verify this although the info did come from a knowledgable source. All of the old Fasels I've looked at have had unmarked ferrite material, were not mine, and I could not have the material analyzed for verification. I didn't have an o-scope at that time and so I could not chart any properties of the Fasel.


It seemed like a lot of kits used the N48 cores (my RM9090A retrofit PCB also (IIRC)).
 
this thread (from ampage archives (now MEF)) on winding your own wah inductors looks good (original not accessible at the moment but available at wayback) (FWIW "Magamps" works (worked?) for the Texas outfit that actually made the Fender Bassman clone transformers for Kendrick (IIRC)) Looks like good tech info and mentions of observed pot core sizes on some vintage wahs :

https://web.archive.org/web/2012110...Re_Anybody_tried_winding_wah_inductors-1.html

https://web.archive.org/web/2012110...Re_Anybody_tried_winding_wah_inductors-2.html

https://web.archive.org/web/2012110...Re_Anybody_tried_winding_wah_inductors-3.html

https://web.archive.org/web/2012110...Re_Anybody_tried_winding_wah_inductors-4.html
 
Make a guitar, cable, wha and fuzz spice sim all connected together

Adjust add to the sim look at the frequency response in the different sim runs

Remember the FF is an imperfect inverting amp kind of like a inverting opamp. That is one reason it interacts with a guitar/bass LRC at the input.
The output of a stock wha is not like a guitar or bass
 
Yes, Joe Gagan’s fuzz has a 250k trimmer on the input and I know he also uses a 10k on the output of the wah so it interfaces better.
I have actually just installed LTspice and started to sim a few fuzz faces but not the wah yet.
 
this thread (from ampage archives (now MEF)) on winding your own wah inductors looks good (original not accessible at the moment but available at wayback) (FWIW "Magamps" works (worked?) for the Texas outfit that actually made the Fender Bassman clone transformers for Kendrick (IIRC)) Looks like good tech info and mentions of observed pot core sizes on some vintage wahs :

https://web.archive.org/web/2012110...Re_Anybody_tried_winding_wah_inductors-1.html

https://web.archive.org/web/2012110...Re_Anybody_tried_winding_wah_inductors-2.html

https://web.archive.org/web/2012110...Re_Anybody_tried_winding_wah_inductors-3.html

https://web.archive.org/web/2012110...Re_Anybody_tried_winding_wah_inductors-4.html
That did shed some light on a few things and confirm some of what I have thought and found.
Even though this N48 halo inductor is the wrong ferrite I think I’ll test it with the 300mH at 29 ohms and then rewind with 0.12mm, should be able to get 800-900 turns on there which should put me near or on the 500mH mark but hopefully under 60ohms which will be better than 550mH at 75 ohms which it was before.
Should have some N30 cores coming so I’ll wind them with 0.1mm and see where I get.
 
I found this very relevant looking discussion from nearly 25 years ago (I think this is from ampage bbs but apparently I didn't have the presence of mind to copy/paste the address). I tried to look for the source at ampage archive (down or unavailable) and wayback machine(internet archive), but no go (also may have disappeared in one of the past hard drive crashes at MEF(ampage), so for the benefit of posterity...:

From: Stuart (castledine@**********.com)
Date: 7/26/2000 7:15 PM
Subject: Re: wah inductor

I made one recently. It has 1100 turns of 0.1mm (42swg) EC wire, which took a couple of hours to wind (not all at once - that would be really boring). The core is 3H1, 18mm dia x 10.5 mm high, which is the same as some of the old halo inductors. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find a source for these - I got this one from a scrap board at work, where it was used as a transformer.

It came out at 535mH and 89 ohms dcr, compared to a genuine '67 halo of exactly 500mH and 83 ohms dcr. I think it sounds better than the Dunlop/Vox one, but I would say that - whether I'd pick it in a blind test is another matter...

Unless you're really bloody minded like me, the easiest thing to do is buy one.


From: Pete
Date: 7/26/2000 11:24 PM
Subject: Re: wah inductor

The core is 3H1, 18mm dia x 10.5 mm high

Stuart, was that the internal diameter or outside diameter. If it's the outside diameter, could you also tell me the inside diameter
Thanks


From: Stuart
Date: 7/27/2000 5:19 PM
Subject: Re: wah inductor

That's the outside diameter of the core, there is a 4mm wide, 4mm deep channel in each core half for the bobbin to sit in. I can send you pictures if that would help.

Stuart


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From: Pete (rubberlips1@*****.com)
Date: 7/27/2000 11:16 PM
Subject: Re: wah inductor

Stuart,

If you could post a link to a picture that would be great

Thanks

Pete


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From: Stuart (castledine@**********.com)
Date: 7/28/2000 5:22 PM
Subject: Re: wah inductor

There's not much to see with the housing on it, but here it is. The base was cut from 3mm polystyrene sheet and the terminal posts are sections of a 7W resistor lead, superglued to the base.


From: Stuart (castledine@**********.com)
Date: 7/29/2000 3:36 PM
Subject: Re: Found out where it came from

It's made by Philips - you can download data sheets here: http://www.acm.components.philips.com/

It's a P18/11-3H1 pot core, which is exactly what's in my Clyde McCoy. From the data, 3H1 appears to be equivalent to Siemens N48, which is what Roger Mayer uses.


From: Pete (rubberlips1@*****.com)
Date: 7/31/2000 9:01 AM
Subject: Re: Found out where it came from

Thanks Stuart,

I also heard from a mate who read a book of projects about wahs, that the inductors used were from old tube TV sets, which were on the output speakers.
Not too sure whether this is correct or not, but it wouldn't surprise me


cFrom: Robert Strand (rstrand@********.au)
Date: 8/1/2000 4:53 AM
Subject: Re: wah inductor

That number of turns would imply the core had a small air-gap of _approximately_ 120um. You have to be careful when selecting cores, the air-gap has a _very _ significant effect on the behaviour of the core, despite the fact the same material is used.

Designing magnetics properly is way beyond the scope of the group. However some tips for experimenters are:

1) The air-gap make a lot of difference to whole design of the inductor. You can't use the same number of turns if you are using a different air-gap size.
2) If you use a core of a different size or shape you cannot use the same number of turns.
3) For a given inductance, larger air-gaps require more turns but allow the inductor to handle more current before distorting.
4) Adding even a small air-gap makes the inductance more predictable and less succeptable to manufacturing/material variations eg. how hard the cores are pushed together - which is particularly bad for un-gapped cores.
5) The larger the air-gap the less the inductor's performance/behaviour depends on the material it is made of.

Hopefully I haven't confused the hell out of people but these are important things to note.

Buy the way, I believe the 3H3 material now replaces the 3H1 material.

Regards
Rob


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From: Stuart (castledine@**********.com)
Date: 8/1/2000 7:32 PM
Subject: Re: wah inductor

Thanks for the information. There isn't an air gap - if the two halves are pulled apart that much the tone becomes thinner with less harmonics. I hadn't fixed it together properly when I measured it, so I'll check it again; it may well come out higher from what you say.

Incidentally, to get "オ" on a PC, hold down ALT and type 230 on the keypad.

Stuart


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From: Robert Strand (rstrand@********.au)
Date: 8/2/2000 2:57 AM
Subject: Re: wah inductor

Yes, for a given inductor separating the cores will decrease the inductance quite a bit and change the sound. Even a gap the thickness of cigarette paper ('rollies') will have a significant effect.

If you run with no gap the inductance will shift around depending on how hard the cores are clamped. With virtually no gap you may be able to overdrive the core to get a subtle distortion effect. In this case the sound will depend on the core material.

Thanks for the Alt 230 tip. I stopped using these about three years ago and can't remember any of the codes, perhaps I should at least remember the オ.

Regards
Rob


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From: Joe
Date: 8/2/2000 3:23 AM
Subject: Re: Found out where it came from

Reading this post has gotten me interested in making an inductor for my wah. I have some 42 guage wire left over from the pickups i had wound and i think that it would work in an inductor. I don't know what to use or where to get the parts. If i got this Philips P18/11-3H1 or Siemens N48, how would i make it an inductor? Are there any other parts i could use, or need?


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From: Bart (sterling@*******.net)
Date: 8/5/2000 7:18 PM
Subject: Re: wah inductor

Rob,

Wow. Sounds like you *really* know your inductor stuff!

Are you familiar with using toroid inductors in wah circuitry?

Any info would be appreciated.
Bart


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From: Pete (rubberlips1@*****.com)
Date: 8/7/2000 12:49 AM
Subject: Re: wah inductor

Does anyone know what the dimensions of the original inductors were (inside and outside). I seen a picture of the guts of a few wahs and inductors all look about an inch in outside diameter. Any ideas of the inside and the heights? Might be able to find a suitable inductor core in the electronics shops, well at least it's a starting point


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From: Stuart (castledine@**********.com)
Date: 8/7/2000 7:13 PM
Subject: Re: wah inductor

The halo inductors have a P18/11 core i.e. 18mm dia, 11 mm tall (actually about 10.5mm). I think the film can inductors have the same core size.

Fasels have a smaller core: 14mm dia and 9mm tall (closest would be P14/8).

Stuart


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From: Robert Strand (rstrand@********.au)
Date: 8/8/2000 5:27 PM
Subject: Re: Found out where it came from

OK, after you have found a few cores chase-up the manufacturer's data sheet (and make sure you use the right gap for the core you are going to buy), then find the parameter AL for that particular core.

**Simplified*** design procedure:

1) First you work out the number of turns: Since, AL is (usually) in nH/turn (nanoHenries), Convert the desired inductance to nanoHenries eg. 600mH = 600e-3*1e9=600e6nH. Then work out how many turns you need using,

N = sqrt(L/AL)

2) Ideally the next thing to do is to work out the maximum wire size you need. Look-up the manufacturers data sheet for the bobbin/former dimensions. From the available winding crossectional area you have to work out what size wire will fit N turns in the bobbin. You might want to reduce the allowed area by 20% or so to give you some slack in case your windings get messy and start to take more space than you anticipated. There's a lot of factors involved in this step but the simplest (and not necessarily accurate) method is to treat the wire as a square - don't forget to allow for the wire insulation.

Alternatively you might want to use a give wire size. Here, just work out the maximum wire diameter above and if it turns or to be larger than the wire you want to use then your OK. If it's smaller then you cannot use that wire with that core - you could try a smaller gap and hence larger AL core. If the wire you want to use is too much less than the maximum then your inductor will be non-optimal : it will have an unnecessarily large DC resistance or the core is unnecessarily large. Nonetheless if you find a cheap core and the resistance is still lower than what you need it's OK to use it.

3)From the number of turns and the chosen wire work out the resistance of the winding. If this turns out to be larger than what you want you have to choose a smaller gap or larger a larger core.

Appart from my previous comments, if you want to go any further I suggest doing a Web search, going to the Library, or buy a book on the subject. Another trap is some manufacturer's give a オe value instead of AL. You can convert オe to AL using other data for the core but it's too messy to go into it here.

Happy Winding!

Regards
Rob


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From: Robert Strand (rstrand@********.au)
Date: 8/8/2000 5:35 PM
Subject: Re: wah inductor

I haven't used torroids myself but I suspect two problems: It may be hard to find a core with a reasonable AL value, otherwise you have a ridiculous number of turns to wind. The other point is winding a torroid with a lot of turns is a real pain in the butt - try to image how you will physically thread the correct number of turns around the torroid and then imagine winding 500 to 1000 turns or so with a very long piece of wire. You can make a little jig to help but it's still a pain. It's a job for a machine, bobbin cores are much easier to do by hand.

Regards
Rob


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From: Bart (sterling@*******net)
Date: 8/9/2000 1:05 AM
Subject: Re: wah inductor

Rob,
You're right about it being a pain to wind! Actually I have handwound some inductors on some small torroid cores (5/8 or 3/4" diameter) using a tiny stick with the magnet wire wrapped on it longways. I don't know the core material - I picked them up surplus. I didn't count the turns, but I have a LCR meter and I wound some as high as 700 millihenries. A bit boring, but not *too* bad if you are listening to music and don't mind doing the project in several sittings. It seemed like once I got the torroid pretty full, the inductance per turn seemed like it went up (I don't know if that even makes sense, I am NOT terribly knowledgeable about coils, cores, etc.)

I never stuck one in a wah and I was just wondering if it might have some interesting saturation characteristics, or whatever.

Any other feedback appreciated.
Bart


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From: Sweetfinger (thesweetfinger@*****.com)
Date: 8/9/2000 2:34 AM
Subject: Re: wah inductor

I'll swear that the other day I was servicing a wah with a toroidal inductor. I'm thinking it was a Dunlop- they're famous for having whatever's cheap (or available) stuck in 'em!


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From: Robert Strand (rstrand@********.au)
Date: 8/9/2000 7:49 AM
Subject: Re: wah inductor

I guess as I grow older my patience is becoming shorter :). All that fiddly stuff gives me small cringes.

The AL factor is essentially the inductance per turn SQUARED. On 'closed cores' such as gap-less potcores and (ferrite) torroids the saturation effect can get complicated. The inductance actually varies depending on the drive level(!) and the inductance you measure on your LCR is the inductance for the drive level you LCR meter is producing - other LCR meters and the circuit will see a different inductance. Basically, the inductance starts off at some nominal value then increases at a medium drive and then falls off as the material saturates. Different materials will behave differently and the behaviour also depends on the specific core size number of turns and drive level.

In the ends, using magnetic saturation to control the sound can really only be done by experiment. You need to try a number of core sizes, material and even number of turns (because you can't trust the inductance value). One suggestion is to tap the inductor at say inductances -40%, -20%, 0%, +20% and +40%. This way you can do more experiments with same core - and you don't have to wind so many cores :).

Regards
Rob


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From: Pete (rubberlips1@*****.com)
Date: 8/10/2000 12:43 AM
Subject: Re: Found out where it came from

Robert,

Thanks for the indepth description of how to wind the inductors. I think I'm set now

Pete


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From: Bart (sterling@*******.net)
Date: 8/10/2000 1:52 AM
Subject: Re: wah inductor

Rob,
Thanks for the technical explanation. I knew that inductance decreased at high drive levels, but I had no idea there was a curve! I think some of the cores I have are powdered ferrite, but I have others that seem to be powdered iron.

How much variation is there with drive level? Especially *below* saturation? Are we talking about minus 20% or more?

I'll try tapping next time around. Is there an easy way to tell at what level the core goes into saturation?

Thanks for reply,
Bart

BTW-thanks for explaining the AL was based on turns SQUARED. It sure *seemed* like a non-linear function! :))


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From: Bart (sterling@*******.net)
Date: 8/10/2000 1:56 AM
Subject: Re: wah inductor

FWIW,
If Dunlop used a torroid inductor, it wouldn't be because it was cheap unless they cashed in on a surplus inductor buy at a cut-rate price. Torroids are *always* more expensive to wind than a pot core.

Bart
 
continued...(wouldn't fit in the 2000 character limit for a single post):

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From: R.G. (keen@******.com)
Date: 8/10/2000 3:51 AM
Subject: Re: wah inductor

How much variation is there with drive level? Especially *below* saturation? Are we talking about minus 20% or more?


Depends entirely on the core material's BH curve and what portion of the BH curve you transit. Minor loops are generally lower effective permeability than major loops.
Inductance is also smaller for some materials at low levels of excitation. It's that way for output transformer laminates.

BH curves are just that - curves. The incremental inductance varies at each point. Some materials have very high slopes, but saturate abruptly, so there's hardly any change until saturation hits with a bang. These "square loop" materials are the ones to have for things like magnetic amplifiers, because the "gain" you get by forcing the cores around the knee of the saturation loop is very large.

Linear ferrites and irons have a more gradual slope change, and it changes all the way up.


Is there an easy way to tell at what level the core goes into saturation?

For linear materials, no. You just have to pick a place where the BH slope has changed by an amount you decide indicates the onset of saturation. For square loop materials, it's obvious when you hit saturation, of course.
You can do some experimental tests for a given inductor and saturation by the pulse-inductance test. Feed the inductor a square pulse of voltage, and watch the slope of the current as it rises. Since V=Ldi/dt, The incremental inductance at each point is proportional to the slope of the current ramp. When the ramp departs from approximately linear and starts to bend upwards toward infinity, you're seeing the reduction in incremental inductance that indicates an increasing bend toward saturation. Using a good pulse generator and starting with a very short pulse and low duty cycle lets you control what happens to the inductor easily.


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From: Robert Strand (rstrand@********.au)
Date: 8/10/2000 4:59 PM
Subject: Re: wah inductor


As RG said, the saturation issue depends on a lot of factors but I'd just to like tie this issue in with what I mention before about gapped cores. When you put a gap in the core a good deal of the variations you get with closed cores goes away and the inductance is much more predictable and varies _much_ less with drive levels. That's why most inductors use gaps. However, if you want to use the saturation for distortion purposes you are face to face with all the variations again, a very small gap is sort of a middle ground but may be quite hard to saturate in circuits like wha's.

(Ha, I mistakenly said nano-henries per turn instead of turn square in my earlier post. The brain thinks one thing and the hands type another.....)

Regards
Rob


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From: R.G.
Date: 8/10/2000 6:23 PM
Subject: Re: wah inductor


It's nice to find someone else who understands inductors. Your comments speak of a fair amount of experience. Power supply design?

Near as I've been able to tell the "magic" in old Vox wahs is largely in the inductor taking a magnetic offset. I was floored when I measured that, but it's apparently real.


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From: Robert Strand (rstrand@********.au)
Date: 8/11/2000 5:11 AM
Subject: Re: wah inductor


It's mostly power supply stuff, but I have done small transformers, some RF stuff and loudspeaker crossovers. Facinating little beasties, they look so simple yet there are so many factors involved.

I read the comments about the Vox wahs on your site some time ago. What you said made a lot of sense and the offset would in fact be real. I'm still suspicious that the origin of the core magnetization is due the DC bias current through the inductor, after all it's a closed core pushed into saturation. One possible way to resolve the dilemma would be to find two units where the inductor was wired in reverse, if the bias is consistent with the current direction that would edge towards the DC current theory. It's quite a mystery. It's also a mystery whether the core material was chosen deliberately or fortuitously. I'm still guessing.......

Regards
Rob


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From: R.G. (keen@******.com)
Date: 8/11/2000 2:27 PM
Subject: Re: wah inductor


It's mostly power supply stuff, but I have done small transformers, some RF stuff and loudspeaker crossovers. Facinating little beasties, they look so simple yet there are so many factors involved.


Yep, that fits. Once you get over the hump of understanding, it's fun to try to produce something really tightly integrated where the side effects actually help you. We once did a transformer for a switching power supply on 3-leg 3-phase laminations that had drive and outputs on all legs but was driven from primaries on both the outside legs and had secondaries on all three legs. We could get both forward conversion and flyback conversion from the gapped center leg, so we had an output that had no gaps in the output - one or more secondary was always pumping the output. Closest thing to transforming DC I've seen yet!

I read the comments about the Vox wahs on your site some time ago. What you said made a lot of sense and the offset would in fact be real. I'm still suspicious that the origin of the core magnetization is due the DC bias current through the inductor, after all it's a closed core pushed into saturation.


That was a pure guess. The "saturation" was not anything you could see by watching the waveform. However, the even harmonics would dance right up on the spectrum analyzer for the older vox inductor and there'd be no sign of them on the newer inductor until long after the odd harmonics were very prominent.
The DC currents seem too small, but there wasn't any other good explanation except the cores coming from the maker with a magnetic offset.


One possible way to resolve the dilemma would be to find two units where the inductor was wired in reverse, if the bias is consistent with the current direction that would edge towards the DC current theory. It's quite a mystery. It's also a mystery whether the core material was chosen deliberately or fortuitously. I'm still guessing.......


Yep. I did get somewhat similar results with a second DC bias winding to induce an offset, but the effect was still not quite the same. I suspect that the original cores were just magnetically harder, so the externally induced offset couldn't fake the shape of the BH curve of the original material.


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From: Bart (sterling@*******.net)
Date: 8/12/2000 4:09 PM
Subject: Re: wah inductor


RG & Rob,
Any possibility the "brass" screw through the core could be the source of the offset? Purity of alloys in the hardware business occurs to me as another suspect.

Thanks for your work and thoughts in this area.

Bart


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From: R.G.
Date: 8/12/2000 4:37 PM
Subject: Re: wah inductor

Could be if it's somehow ferromagnetic, of course. I'll have to analyze that next time I get an original inductor to mess with.
 
I’ll read all that once I’ve cooked dinner but I’ll be just tried my N48 inductor and done a comparison with a red Fasel and it doesn’t impress, 500mH at 52ohm just doesn’t sound as good, it sounded better like you said when it was thinner gauge wire and about 80ohms at 550mH!!
Trouble is I’ve used super glue on it now! I could soak it in some white spirit or methylated spirits and it may break down the glue!!
 
I’ll read all that once I’ve cooked dinner but I’ll be just tried my N48 inductor and done a comparison with a red Fasel and it doesn’t impress, 500mH at 52ohm just doesn’t sound as good, it sounded better like you said when it was thinner gauge wire and about 80ohms at 550mH!!
Trouble is I’ve used super glue on it now! I could soak it in some white spirit or methylated spirits and it may break down the glue!!

bummer. I thought (presumed) things would be better with lower DCR but I guess it's not that simple. FWIW, Geoffrey Teese wrote of his, that "(a)ll my inductors measure within 5mH tolerance from my spec, with DCR right on the money.". Fulltone in their advertising blurb (IIRC) said something about typical industry standards for inductors being loose but theirs having some tighter tolerance (I don't recall if they gave an exact figure). (Did you try to tweak the 10n?(I thought you had a different value?))

re: fuzz, my Roger Mayer Classic Fuzz (his version of Fuzz Face) didn't sound very good (in fact no sound came out of it at all at times) but some years later (after I accumulated lots of Germaniums and had sorted some out for gains and leakage and installed some selected ones inside) sounded pretty good.

re: wah cases, Geoffrey Teese related a funny story on his website (if memory serves). Apparently he was buying and using the Dunlop enclosures for his wahs (until they evidently noticed him buying huge quantities (presumably) and cut him off, lol...

oh and also, apparently those Crybaby/Vox types of wah enclosures don't all open up to the same amount of physical angle (some are narrower).
 
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Yes I’ll mess around with the cap values and put some trimmers in there and see if I can dial in a better sound, this will be my test wah now.

As per these new wah enclosures the tooth strip seems to not be quite right and the plastic retainer that screws in seems to be to small, so I’ll need to play around to get it better, it seems to be very noisy and miss some of the teeth when rocked back and forth!!

I suspect for each type of ferrite there is a sweet spot and that the inductance and resistance changes, for this N48 630 ferrite I have in this one I suspect that 550mH at around 80 ohms gives a better Q with the standard values but playing around with the values should be able to dial that back in.
 
If you really want to nail the inductor, then you would do as follows:

Find an original from the Hendrix era that sounds good.

Plot a series of curves of the inductance vs frequency at maybe 20 different voltage levels.

Wind your own and plot the same curves.

it is painstakingly tedious work but it is the only way to blueprint the original.

Inductance measurements are useless unless they tell you what the frequency and level are. It pains me to see so many people winding their own inductors while not being sure of what they are after.

Oh yeah, if there is D C current involved, then you need to make another family of curves for different levels of DC.

Even if you do all that, you might not come up with an exact match as you are dealing with complex waveforms of different frequencies.

i guess you could do a family if curves by using a sawtooth wave and a square wave to measure inductance. Once you use the sq wave you are entering into a whole new world of what is called a pulse transformer which has a whole new set of equations that engineers hate so they just do a bunch if experiments til they get it right. No longer are you dealing with steady state parameters like a continuous sine wave. No, now you are dealing with an on and off sequence so the focus is different. So a guy suddenly picking a muted string is going to be putting out pulses instead of sine waves.

Engineers use Fourier analysis to investigate the frequency domain and Laplace analysis to investigate the time domain. Or differential equations which are cumbersome. Series are a lot of fun, its that linear algebra that sucks donkey.
 
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