where can i get the cheapest linear power supply for pm1000?
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raysolinski
Well-known member
Check Debco Electronics in Cincinnati (hit the google key)..and call them as they don't sell everything they have on their website..I think they have some power one 48 volt supplies for 10$ (same supply Mouser id selling for 45?!)..
Cheers,
Ray
Cheers,
Ray
buschfsu
Well-known member
what about joes 48v wallwart at jlmaudio?
its 48v and 380mA should be fine right?
its 48v and 380mA should be fine right?
ukiah123
New member
Hi buschfsu,
Did you end up using the JLM Audio 48V for the pm1000 rack?
If so, how did it work out for you?
I am considering doing the same, I am not confident enough to use open frame type PSU.
All the best,
Ade
Did you end up using the JLM Audio 48V for the pm1000 rack?
If so, how did it work out for you?
I am considering doing the same, I am not confident enough to use open frame type PSU.
All the best,
Ade
okgb
Well-known member
owel in the white market has a board [ & kit ]
made for the PM 1,000
made for the PM 1,000
buschfsu
Well-known member
yes his 48v switcher works great. i dropped to 44v with 6 diodes and its been rock solid for a year. sounds great. if you cant get it from joe its a meanwell and can be found elsewhere.
ukiah123
New member
Hey thanks for that buschfsu, good to know. I have also seen the Meanwells at RS and intend to use diode method to get down to 44VDC.
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
abeLovesDIY
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I have a PM-1000 console I am restoring. The power supply is in bad shape and has missing/kludged pads on the PCB.
I am thinking about ditching it all together and swapping in one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08C83C6LK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for 48V, and a few 1N4003s to step down to 44V for the channels. But then I'll still need +12V for the headphone amp, and +13V for the lamps - It seems kludgy, but should I just use a wallwart for those?
The back of the Mixer already has two aftermarket adapters, so the holes are already there...
I am thinking about ditching it all together and swapping in one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08C83C6LK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for 48V, and a few 1N4003s to step down to 44V for the channels. But then I'll still need +12V for the headphone amp, and +13V for the lamps - It seems kludgy, but should I just use a wallwart for those?
The back of the Mixer already has two aftermarket adapters, so the holes are already there...
abeLovesDIY said:
Can you write a list of all the voltage rails needed for the PM1000?
I have quite a few mixer PSUs that might fit the bill
abeLovesDIY
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Whoops said:
+48 for phantom
+44 for the channel strips, etc..
+13 for the lamps
+12 for the headphone amp.
I have a switching meanwell that puts out 48, I was going to trim that down to 44 and use it for phantom and the channel strips.
I have a ton of 12v supplies so I was just going to use that for the headphone amp and maybe run the lamps as well, since they are only separated by a 22 ohm resistor anyway... Or maybe I'll kludge in that resistor...
abeLovesDIY said:
That seems like a good plan
abeLovesDIY
Active member
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So that is the DC connector of the PM power supply. The drawing is from the power supply schematic, so nodes 2 and 7 are normally connected via the power supply PCB. Wiring would be clipped there and attached to nodes per the label. Color coding matches the Wire color (except for white). I think I also need to add a resistor between the 4 and 5 nodes, as I confirmed the 22 ohm resistor is also on the power supply PCB.
I don't suppose anyone would be so kind as to check my work?
I don't suppose anyone knows the amperage draw of the lamp section would they?
abeLovesDIY
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Yep That works, in case anyone else goes down this path.
My only issue is the Meter lamps. The Echo ones work, but not the Master Channels - who knows if they ever did though. Maybe I need more amps? The 12v supply is just 1 amp. Or maybe it does need 13V ..
My only issue is the Meter lamps. The Echo ones work, but not the Master Channels - who knows if they ever did though. Maybe I need more amps? The 12v supply is just 1 amp. Or maybe it does need 13V ..
substitute
Well-known member
Switching power supplies work totally fine.
Get a supply that has 48v output with a decent amount of current (at least 500ma) and then use a LM317 regulator to drop the 48V down to 44V for the rest of the circuit. You can use the basic regulator schematic in the datasheet of the LM317.
You can do the same for the lower voltages like the 13VDC and 12VDC for lights and headphones if you need those. With 48V as the source voltage 317 can go from about 2V to 44V variable with a trimpot. there are many supplies on this forum using these regulators you can get info from / copy the circuit.
You can do the same for the lower voltages like the 13VDC and 12VDC for lights and headphones if you need those. With 48V as the source voltage 317 can go from about 2V to 44V variable with a trimpot. there are many supplies on this forum using these regulators you can get info from / copy the circuit.
