JessJackson
Well-known member
There's a load of information on this and I would like to consolidate all info's I could find into this one thread to get others opinions.
I want to get to the bottom of the best conversion techniques. So lets get the drama started and the ball rolling...
I want to get into adding a High Pass Filter board (this will fit without re-racking) and PSU options (sound of passive vs regulated etc..) later but first lets attack the Gain structure...
Eisen Audio
http://www.eisenaudio.com/projects/design-retrofits-1272-sensitivity-switch/
Was Hired by Glide on Fade to create this switch
http://glideonfade.com/electronics.htm
They state the switch is:
LINE
1 = +10 (in other words, a 10dB pad)
2 = +5
3 = 0 (unity)
4 = -5
5 = -10 (10dB of gain)
and 6 positions of mic gain in 5db steps
MIC
6 = -20 (20dB of gain)
7 = -25 (and so on...)
8 = -30
9 = -35
10 = -40
11 = -45
12 = -50
Surely the only TRUE way to get a Line In would be to use a separate 31267 input transformer or create some sort of switch to use the 10468 in reverse and parallel.
No Schematic available on their site but looking at the wiring guide ( http://glideonfade.com/aswiring.htm ) it seems that they use a very similar schematic as Joe at JLM which leads me to...
JLM
Joe published the 1272 Hot Rod Mod ( http://www.jlmaudio.com/JLM1272hotrodmod.pdf )
This is probably the most utilised schematic on the inter web, in fact its the one I used to configure my 1272
Joes design calls for the same 12 position switch but configured with different value resistors to obtain 10-65db of gain.
MIC
1=10db
2=15db
...
...
11=60db
12=65db
Geoff Tanner
I recently came across Geoff Tanners statement on how he doesn't like JLM incorporation of the gain knob ( https://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/947775-racked-vintage-neve-1272-a.html#post10465269 )
on his FAQ he states to use both the front amp and rear amp sequentially for gain (F & N on rear connectors & T & F on amp card) respectively), ( http://auroraaudio.net/ask-geoff/faq )
He elaborates on this in this thread in his forums ( http://auroraaudio.net/forums/topic/the-1272-line-amplifier-uses-and-foibles#post-216 )
In Geoff's diagram the attenuation pot is fitted between L and K but thats the same as JLM schematic P & L on the AMP board end up at L & K on the rear terminals.
Summary
So whats everyones thoughts on the gain implementation... Do you like JLM or Eisens approach or do you like Geoff Tanners approach or does this even matter at all at lower <-50db gain settings.. should we re-assess our 1272 modifications.
It would seem that my 1272 was originally fitted with an attenuator utilising the Baxandall trick of a 10K linear pot with a 4.7Kohm resistor from the wiper to the bottom.
In terms of the attenuator, I see people silk screening 0db at centre position and in some cases fitting a pull out attenuator to bypass the pot completely. But isn't true 0db at unity clockwise? or is this just purely subjective?
If you are gaining up the rear amp at the same time as the front amp then I can see the thought behind trim being centred at unity and having the option to either attenuate or overdrive the output transformer but with the output transformer "wide open" as Geoff claims as is JLM approach ( 1.5k and 100uf to -0 ) then I don't see why people would use 0db (unity) centred.
... and just to throw another spanner in the works I found this schematic which is similar to JLM but uses 11position 20db to 70db
Jesse
I want to get to the bottom of the best conversion techniques. So lets get the drama started and the ball rolling...
I want to get into adding a High Pass Filter board (this will fit without re-racking) and PSU options (sound of passive vs regulated etc..) later but first lets attack the Gain structure...
Eisen Audio
http://www.eisenaudio.com/projects/design-retrofits-1272-sensitivity-switch/
Was Hired by Glide on Fade to create this switch
http://glideonfade.com/electronics.htm
They state the switch is:
LINE
1 = +10 (in other words, a 10dB pad)
2 = +5
3 = 0 (unity)
4 = -5
5 = -10 (10dB of gain)
and 6 positions of mic gain in 5db steps
MIC
6 = -20 (20dB of gain)
7 = -25 (and so on...)
8 = -30
9 = -35
10 = -40
11 = -45
12 = -50
Surely the only TRUE way to get a Line In would be to use a separate 31267 input transformer or create some sort of switch to use the 10468 in reverse and parallel.
No Schematic available on their site but looking at the wiring guide ( http://glideonfade.com/aswiring.htm ) it seems that they use a very similar schematic as Joe at JLM which leads me to...
JLM
Joe published the 1272 Hot Rod Mod ( http://www.jlmaudio.com/JLM1272hotrodmod.pdf )
This is probably the most utilised schematic on the inter web, in fact its the one I used to configure my 1272
Joes design calls for the same 12 position switch but configured with different value resistors to obtain 10-65db of gain.
MIC
1=10db
2=15db
...
...
11=60db
12=65db
Geoff Tanner
I recently came across Geoff Tanners statement on how he doesn't like JLM incorporation of the gain knob ( https://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/947775-racked-vintage-neve-1272-a.html#post10465269 )
on his FAQ he states to use both the front amp and rear amp sequentially for gain (F & N on rear connectors & T & F on amp card) respectively), ( http://auroraaudio.net/ask-geoff/faq )
He elaborates on this in this thread in his forums ( http://auroraaudio.net/forums/topic/the-1272-line-amplifier-uses-and-foibles#post-216 )
In Geoff's diagram the attenuation pot is fitted between L and K but thats the same as JLM schematic P & L on the AMP board end up at L & K on the rear terminals.
Summary
So whats everyones thoughts on the gain implementation... Do you like JLM or Eisens approach or do you like Geoff Tanners approach or does this even matter at all at lower <-50db gain settings.. should we re-assess our 1272 modifications.
It would seem that my 1272 was originally fitted with an attenuator utilising the Baxandall trick of a 10K linear pot with a 4.7Kohm resistor from the wiper to the bottom.
In terms of the attenuator, I see people silk screening 0db at centre position and in some cases fitting a pull out attenuator to bypass the pot completely. But isn't true 0db at unity clockwise? or is this just purely subjective?
If you are gaining up the rear amp at the same time as the front amp then I can see the thought behind trim being centred at unity and having the option to either attenuate or overdrive the output transformer but with the output transformer "wide open" as Geoff claims as is JLM approach ( 1.5k and 100uf to -0 ) then I don't see why people would use 0db (unity) centred.
... and just to throw another spanner in the works I found this schematic which is similar to JLM but uses 11position 20db to 70db
Jesse