3D "AIR" EQ - "Night EQ" PCB's Complete!

[djmiggymigz]

Ahhh yeah that’s not cool at all :/ I should’ve done some more research on the company before going for it. Plus, they claim in the website that they’re super available to help with build questions etc.,, 4 emails later and no response.

I’m using the Psu pub that was included with the partial kit. I’ll upload a pic below. View attachment IMG_0177.jpeg

 

[djmiggymigz]

Ahhh yeah that’s not cool at all :/ I should’ve done some more research on the company before going for it. Plus, they claim in the website that they’re super available to help with build questions etc.,, 4 emails later and no response.

I’m using the Psu pub that was included with the partial kit. I’ll upload a pic below. View attachment 130888

AC main input terminal from left to right (from the pic’s perspective) is labeled as G, -, ~, ~, +. DC output is -, G, +.

For the AC Ground I’m running 2 wires, one connected to the ic inlet ground and the other running to the terminal input ground.

The DC terminals are running to the DC inputs on the L&R channels as well as the power LED which is connected to G and + with a resistor in between.

From my experimentation last night, it seems like swapping what secondaries are plugged into the different AC has different results. However, either the positive or negative input at the regs (317/337) is majorly lacking. I.e. input at positive will be sitting at +42 V but negative input is -6V. Swapping the secondary wires around seems to swap those measurements at the regs

 

[peterc]

Lets check all your voltages step by step.
Maybe show us details of the transformer you have used.
What AC voltages does your power transformer read on the secondary? Is the secondary centre-tapped?
So disconnect the power transformer from the pcb, power up the unit and then measure AC volts across the secondary.



So measure the voltage by putting your Black probe on the centre tap (neautral in this diagram) and the Red lead on the Line 1 point, and then on the Line 2 point. So you are measuring the voltage on the secondary with reference to the centre tap.

In the attached pic, are there 4 wires coming from the power transformer? 2 Red and 2 Blue?

If there are 4 wires, then create your own cetre tap by combing 2 of the secondary wires as in the second pic below.

Be sure to get your phasing correct.

Then connect the 3 wires from your power transformer to the PSU PCB, Line 1 to AC input, Line 2 to AC input and centre tap to G.


Your mains voltage can be measured across the Primary winding (Vp in the diagram).

 

[Whoops]

Not entirely sure what happened but it seems the DIYRacked version of this has some bad blood behind it? Wish I’d read thru this prior as I’m currently working on building this from diy racked.

He took my PCB design and added relay bypassing and sold it as his own.

DIYRacked is Tat Purusha,
he was banned from this forum some years ago, he stole a lot of the work done here by hardworking members and starting selling it in his website has it's own.

Yes he sole the PCB design of this project from PeterC and he stole many other PCB designs that some people made for free to share with this community,
he stole those purely for profit.

djmiggymigz you bought a commercial product from a commercial website, that company run by Tat Purusha that received your money it's the only place that is responsible for support of their own products, in this case the product that you have acquired.
This thread is not related to DIYRacked commercial products and to the project you have,
this thread is dedicated to the PeterC project and PCB that he designed many years ago.

I ASK ALL DIY MEMBERS, please don't support and provide free help for DIYRacked Tat Purusha products, he is a thief and as he is running a commercial business for profit it's his responsibility to support his own products and his own clients.
Thank you all so much

 

[peterc]

Whoops said:
I ASK ALL DIY MEMBERS, please don't support and provide free help for DIYRacked Tat Purusha products, he is a thief and as he is running a commercial business for profit it's his responsibility to support his own products and his own clients.
Thank you all so much

I agree 100% with this statement, and I thought long about answering here, but I have answered, and will do my best to help djmiggy to get his project working. I can see he is a relative beginner, and I'm sure he will benefit in other ways, not just completing this project.

One thing I like here is the community spirit, and while I get really pissed when people steal my designs, I would never have got where I am without the generosity of our members. I am in no way bowing to pressure or being influenced by Tat's creepy business ethics, just helping out a fellow member.

After all, he may have something really interesting to contribute in the future?

Time will tell.

 

[djmiggymigz]

Thank you for that response Peter.!

Whoops, I understand where you’re coming from, I would be PISSED. Knowing what I know now, I wish I hadn’t supported him!! I was naive and assumed with all these really cool companies (AML, CAPI, etc.) making kits, that diyracked was also one of these. Sadly, in our world people take advantage for their own benefit :/ I’ll tell you with 100% certainty I will never support diyracked in any way again! He definitely crossed a moral boundary of my own as well.

However, thank you again for your thoughtfulness Peter. Sadly, I’ve put too much money into this project already to fail (besides the fact that it would actually drive me insane). This is the first time I’ve built a 19” unit and there has been much I’ve learned but I’m still stuck! So thank you for being willing to help despite the circumstances.

I’ll be back at the workshop later today and I’ll try what you mentioned and log the readings I get. Thank you!!

 

[Whoops]

I agree 100% with this statement, and I thought long about answering here, but I have answered, and will do my best to help djmiggy to get his project working. I can see he is a relative beginner, and I'm sure he will benefit in other ways, not just completing this project.

Everyone can do whatever they want of course, so it's your choice to support Tat Purusha products, you can call it whatever you want or justify whatever you want, I respect you, but in the end what you are doing is simply supporting a product sold by Tat Purusha and doing once more his work for him.
So I respect you but couldn't disagree more.

I agree with you that we should help each other as a community, but this forum should never be the support thread for Tat Purusha stolen projects that he is selling and having profit from, his margins are quite high by the way.

If I was a moderator here I would for sure try to ban and delete all posts related to DIYRacked Tat Purusha products,
actually I even think that should be part of the forum rules.

So all I can do is let other members know the truth about thief Tat Purusha, about his past here in the forum, and ask members to understand how wrong is using the resources of this community to support his business.

 

[djmiggymigz]

Lets check all your voltages step by step.
Maybe show us details of the transformer you have used.
What AC voltages does your power transformer read on the secondary? Is the secondary centre-tapped?
So disconnect the power transformer from the pcb, power up the unit and then measure AC volts across the secondary.

View attachment 130940

So measure the voltage by putting your Black probe on the centre tap (neautral in this diagram) and the Red lead on the Line 1 point, and then on the Line 2 point. So you are measuring the voltage on the secondary with reference to the centre tap.

In the attached pic, are there 4 wires coming from the power transformer? 2 Red and 2 Blue?

If there are 4 wires, then create your own cetre tap by combing 2 of the secondary wires as in the second pic below.

Be sure to get your phasing correct.

Then connect the 3 wires from your power transformer to the PSU PCB, Line 1 to AC input, Line 2 to AC input and centre tap to G.


Your mains voltage can be measured across the Primary winding (Vp in the diagram).

Okay so I have 8 wires total out of the transformer. On the transformer (tho i think its in russian which I do not know) it says:

"PRI: 115V bela
Pri: 115 V rumena
SEK: 18V rdeca
SEK 18V modra 35 VA"

The secondaries are the blue pair and red pair (i believe). I combined the center two (one red, one blue) and when measuring black probe on those both the others read 20.9 VAC. So:

Va = 20.9 V AC
Vb = 20.9 V AC
Vtotal = 41.8 V AC
Vp = 125.6 V AC

Pics below: One showing what is written on the toroid. One showing the AC Inlet on the PSU. Previously I had Blue on positive, the two that are now combined ofr center tap in the middle two, and the last red on the - side. In the ground terminal, I had a star ground wire connected that goes from the IC Inlet ground -> Toroid screw -> PSU AC Ground terminal.

Based on what you wrote (just confirming here) I should leave the center tap in the G terminal? Should I also include the green wire (shown in second pic) going to the toroid screw in the AC G Terminal?

Tried googling this myself but as usual only found articles that lost me almost immediately with 20 other concepts I'm not familiar with; what is the phasing that you mentioned. Does it work like phasing in audio where if connected out-of-phase, the voltage will cancel out and null?

 

[Bobby Baird]

Here

 

[djmiggymigz]

Here

Thanks, this is what I was working off of tho. Positive side is reading + 43 VDC and the regulator (317) input. Negative side is reading around -7 VDC at the regulator (337) input. Ive worked out that the 2 center terminals on the AC inout are connected to the G terminal so that creates the center tap for the transformer where I'm reading +- 20.9 VAC at the inout terminals. However,, while checking continuity I just shorted a diode on the positive side. New problems!! ) seems like the diode is fine tho

 

[Bobby Baird]

Check continuity with your meter on pins 2&3 to the ground pin is there continuity with those pins

 

[djmiggymigz]

Check continuity with your meter on pins 2&3 to the ground pin is there continuity with those pins

yupp sure is! So with the center secondaries (one red one blue) in terminals 2&3 theyre then connected to the G terminal.

 

[Bobby Baird]

OK so it's a centertap bi-polar power supply.

 

[djmiggymigz]

OK so it's a centertap bi-polar power supply.

Does it matter which secondaries I send to the +/- AC input then? That being the terminals that correspond to the +/- on the rectifier.

 

[Bobby Baird]

Attach the wires like the diagram. Don't wire the blue and red wires together to the grd pin

 

[djmiggymigz]

Attach the wires like the diagram. Don't wire the blue and red wires together to the grd pin

Okay, that's how I originally had it connected and still my negative DC inout at the regulator was mega low (around -6 VDC and would go above -7 VDC with the trimmer. Any ideas what else to check? Ive confirmed that the diodes are oriented properly as is the bridge rectifier. As are the Regs and electrolytic caps. I also made sure the resistors are up to spec

 

[Bobby Baird]

+/- of the rectifier are outputted to the regulators.

 

[Bobby Baird]

The rectifier should have some symbol like ~ meaning AC input from the power transformer secondaries.

 

[Bobby Baird]

Should look something like this.

 

[djmiggymigz]

The rectifier should have some symbol like ~ meaning AC input from the power transformer secondaries.

HMM the rectifier I have in has +, ~, ~, - printed on it. The PCB has the + and - printed on it for orientation. I just confirmed conituity between the + and - rectifier terminals and the input of the regulators.