500 series Level-Loc project

GroupDIY Audio Forum

Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
dmp said:
Indecline,
Thanks for posting your Mouser cart.
I'm putting an order together and noticed 2N5089 are available on Mouser, if you didn't want to sub bc550c.
I'll post P/Ns for toggle switches if I can find them at Mouser.
And the LED should mount in a 5mm hole?
About the 550c in the cart: I originally *though I ordered the 2n5089, but received (correctly doh!) 2n5088!

So I did the 550c in the cart  :-X
 
Found the 2n5089 transistors locally. Finally I have all the pieces to finish!  8)

(I hate paying shipping on just a few transistors  :p )
 
Guys, there is an error in my cart!!

The linear 50k pot for the mix knob has the wiper mounted on the wrong side and will not fit with the 500 series faceplate.

Terribly sorry about that  :-[

My cart post has been updated with the warning.
 
Thanks for letting us know!!!! Will check it out.
I imported yours and added switches, switchcap for the pushbutton and LED.
Haven't ordered yet, still trying to remember all the stuff I need for different projects...
I bought two L-brackets from [silent:arts], but I'm not sure I can use them, they're kind of small  :'(

Best
//M
 
Indecline said:
Guys, there is an error in my cart!!

The linear 50k pot for the mix knob has the wiper mounted on the wrong side and will not fit with the 500 series faceplate.

Terribly sorry about that  :-[

My cart post has been updated with the warning.


I'm staring at the data sheet ( http://www.taiwanalpha.com.tw/english2014/p_e_047.htm )
for the pot: RV170F-24-20K-B54-3.

I'm sorry, I don't understand what you mean??  :-[
Care to explain?

Kind regards
Magnus
 
Dr Gris said:
Indecline said:
Guys, there is an error in my cart!!

The linear 50k pot for the mix knob has the wiper mounted on the wrong side and will not fit with the 500 series faceplate.

Terribly sorry about that  :-[

My cart post has been updated with the warning.


I'm staring at the data sheet ( http://www.taiwanalpha.com.tw/english2014/p_e_047.htm )
for the pot: RV170F-24-20K-B54-3.

I'm sorry, I don't understand what you mean??  :-[
Care to explain?

Kind regards
Magnus

Hey Magnus,

The PCB pins need to be on the other side of the wiper enclosure to allow the faceplate to sit flush.

Check this data sheet and you will see what I mean:
www.taiwanalpha.com.tw/english2014/p_e_048.htm

(That is the 24mm model, we need 16mm)
 
Greetings from your friendly and overworked PCB maker... I was overwhelmed by the response to this project, expecting one or 2 orders... Anyway, I have now completed all orders including a couple that were delayed because I ran out of black laminate and had to order some more. If yours has not arrived yet, please let me know. I haven't had any "where is my  *$£"%&* PCB" emails yet, so fingers crossed.

Most orders were for black panels, a few for red and none at all for blue. You unadventurous lot ;)

The majority of orders was for a stereo setup with 2 PCBs and 2 panels.

Has anyone managed to put one together and get it to work? Just curious.

You may be interested to know that at the busiest time of making these boards, I actually had dreams about them. I must get a life...

M
 
Dr Gris said:
I hope this one will work?
Mouser #  858-P160KN-0QC15B50K

Best
//M

That one looks like it should fit fine. I'll be ordering a couple for myself!

(Funny I can find the original transistors locally but can't find the stinking pots in town!)



 
I'm nearing final assembly on a pair.

I got these pots from mouser:
313-1530F-50K
858-P160KN-0QC15B50K

The threaded shaft is slightly too big to go through the front panels.
How would you recommend enlarging these slightly? Can I drill out or will the plastic chip out too much?

They do seem like they will work with the pcbs.
 
Good times!

When I've drilled laminate like that I've always gone from the front side with a solid surface behind.  In my head the drill will be sharp and get a clean-ish edge on the side you need it most.

Having said that - I assume you'll be using a knob of some kind too so there will be a little safety net.

Start drilling as slow as possible and as gentle as possible too.  And dont start the drill already in the hole... I've made that mistake.  ;) :D ;D

Good luck!

Ian
 
OK, my pair is assembled and ready to test out. Actually the pots could wiggle through without drilling, so those P/Ns worked perfectly.

It seems the threshold pot could just be SPDT, since the orange wire is just connected across all the terminals. I left it off.

 

Attachments

  • levelloc.jpg
    levelloc.jpg
    104 KB · Views: 215
I´m finishing a pair of them right now but I´m a bit in trouble...

The pad doesn´t seem to work properly in one unit. The whole unit looks fine, just I don´t feel the level is being padded.

The other unit gave me some headache,  I etched my own boards and had a few bad traces, anyway, I ´m not getting any "wet" sound, bypass is ok, pot turned all the way "dry" is ok, but when I turn it to 100% wet it doesn´t sound. I need to put some time on it, I think it can ´t be so hard

I´ve played a bit with the working one and I have to say it´s great, even with the pad don ´t working looks like you can get different flavors depending on how hard you hit the input and playing with the timing to create different pumping effects. I ran some thin and boring vocals recorded with an AKG 414 and a Green preamp and them came back to life, also in a Rhodes it was great.

Thanks for the effort irfrench!
 
Hello all,

Really glad there are some units coming to maturity out there!  ;D ;D ;D :D :D :D :D

The Pad variation is a subtle one if you're messing with the input level at the same time.  It can also appear that the unit isn't doing much if you are not below/near the threshold but this thing can get really messy when set right!

The easiest to hear would be the 'most' setting, with FST release.  Have the input all the way CCW and slowly bring it up.. You should hear compression at some point and the pad setting of -40 should help brnig that threshold point to a more useful position...

Ian
:)
 
I actually thought about it, maybe the threshold is as low that the signal is above it even in -40 dbs?

I fed it with so hot signals (samples from a library, some of them peaking  at 0 dbFS). Maybe thats the issue...
 
Hi,

Definitely try lowering that level - the -40 gets it down nicely but if it is peaking at 0dBFS it'll still be hot (depending on your I/O obvs!).

I definitely had a moment when first trying the proto out with a bit of head scratching, a bit of clicking, a bit of dial-turning and then a big smile.

Would love to see/hear about any units installed and in action!

Ian
:)
 
Here is one of my units. I have to re-do the front panel, I made the bypass switch hole too much big.

Hoping to get some time tomorrow to make it work finally. Also I Have to replace one switch.

For those wondering what I used for the panel, it's just red methacrylate, gonna use vinyl stickers for the lettering and them varnish it a few times.

Again, great project Ian, thanks!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1267550287066.jpeg
    IMG_1267550287066.jpeg
    109.1 KB · Views: 127
No problem!  I'm just glad someone else has built it - and it works!

Seriously though - I hope the project is a useful one!

Ian
:)
 
irfrench said:
I definitely had a moment when first trying the proto out with a bit of head scratching, a bit of clicking, a bit of dial-turning and then a big smile.

Had that moment yesterday, everything is working, pad, release and compression switches, about the comp setting, I have huge differences between mid position of the switch and the other two, nothing strange, just almost no compressing in mid position (input signal about 0 dbu, input pot set about 50%) and huge compression on the other settings, but I managed to hear compression in the middle position turning up the input pot, so I´m not so worried about it.

The other unit is waiting for a DRV134 I have to look at it, it doesn´t have any wet signal. I fired it the first time with Q7 reversed and no + supply to TL074,  that put -12v on the DRV134 pin4 and fried it. Putting the scope on the output I see only negative side of the signal, anyway, two different problems, so I will take some time to refresh my head, it´s not a complex project, I´m sure I´ll get it working ( :-[)

irfrench said:
Would love to see/hear about any units installed and in action!

I made some samples the first day it was working, nothing refined, just to hear it in action

Some Drums
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ajp7704kj6n59j1/primera%20prueba%20loc-fi.mp3

Guitar
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bs2ruuhd8ug90yy/primera%20prueba%20loc-fi%20guit.mp3

Rhodes
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8is5ctrt86li1f7/primera%20prueba%20loc-fi%20rhodes.mp3
 

Latest posts

Back
Top