5003 eq building and help.

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For the IN-OUT switch, does anyone know what pushbutton switch Peter C supplied in the kit?

Has anyone tried the C&K F01 button as seen here on page 6? Will it fit the switch and will it fit in the hole in the front panel?

Thanks,
Chris
 
fazeka said:
For the IN-OUT switch, does anyone know what pushbutton switch Peter C supplied in the kit?

Has anyone tried the C&K F01 button as seen here on page 6? Will it fit the switch and will it fit in the hole in the front panel?

Thanks,
Chris
Chris,

I'm not sure what Peter supplied but I have some of the 4PDT F series switches here for my desk. The holes on the PCB are a little too small. No biggie though. The pads are pretty sizable. They are also set back about 1/8" farther from the front panel than I do mine for the pre's. I checked and they are not far back enough for the winkies. I don't know what switch caps he used on his builds. I think the bullets would work. I did not get his metal though so can't comment on that.

Jeff
 
The switches I used are the same size as the Alps used in the Gyraf projects,

SWITCH SPUN19035A

Farnell nr 733-118

The shaft on those I supplied might be 1/2 a mm longer, but very similar.

Peter
 
I'm a newbie sorta. I would like to build a standard Eq that works and follow the experiment type later. Do I build it according to the pcb values or schematics since some values are different on caps and resistors ???

PJ
 
I hope I didn't make a boo boo. ???

Are these caps supposed to be polar: C1A, C2A,C12A,C19A 100nF 50V-5mm?

I just noticed when soldering them that there is a square pad on one side.
 
Johnny:

The 100nF caps care not polarised, the square pad is not important for them.

The elctrolytics are obviously polarised. The pos is either on the left or at the top of the PCB for easy construction.

Dan:

Inductors are not polarised.

Peter
 
Hi all,
I'm having trouble deciphering  the blue caps that Peter includes in his kit.

Markings on blue caps are

1) 1um63 A1xO

2) A1W6  (Sorry this was on the backside of 33nJC63 cap duh)

3) u47JC3 1x6

4) 33nJC63

Thanks for the help
PJ
 
pjdiy said:
I'm having trouble deciphering the blue caps that Peter includes in his kit.
Don't have my kit in front of me, but from memory:

[quote author=pjdiy]
1) 1um63 A1xO
[/quote]

1 uF / 63 volts

[quote author=pjdiy]
2) A1W6
[/quote]

Is there another code on this one?

[quote author=pjdiy]
3) u47JC3 1x6
[/quote]

0.47 uF, probably 63 volts

[quote author=pjdiy]
4) 33nJC63
[/quote]

33 nF / 63 volts
 
Can anyone throw any hints about wiring Ed's 2503 trafo??

This is what I plan on (from top to bottom on PCB):

Orange
Yellow
Green
Blue
Violet
Grey

Red
Brown

Is that correct?
 
dmp said:
Myles,
I think you have two of the secondary leads swapped on the output transformer, which would explain your reduced output.
I think the output should be (from top to bottom)
red
gray
green
blue
yellow
purple
The picture you posted looks like yellow and purple are swapped.
The primary is, from top to bottom (to have in-phase output)
red
brown

This is how I wired my EQ up. Getting close to finishing up the EQ

I soldered up my gar opamp. Break out the magnifying glass :p
I hope to get the fews caps I'm missing from Mouser.



Sorry my mistake on correct xfrmer. This is for the xfmer that came with the kit.
 
My post was for the output Transformer Peter included with the kit. The 2503 has different lead coloring.
Johnnyscotch, for the 2503 I think the primary is right  and the secondary looks correct, but if you find you have a phse reversal, flip the red & brown.
 
johnnyscotch said:
Can anyone throw any hints about wiring Ed's 2503 trafo??

This is what I plan on (from top to bottom on PCB):

Orange
Yellow
Green
Blue
Violet
Grey

Red
Brown

Is that correct?
Yes, this is absolutely correct for an EA2503. The same way it was done on an original API EQ.  ;)

Carry on  :)

Cheers, Jeff
 
Anyone know where I can order 3 nuts for the red toggle switches?
My kit did not include these.
I measured 6mm dia. Metric?

Thanks PJ

Thanks fazeka!
 
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