peter purpose
Well-known member
Bollox.. All (coastal) Californians could, and should be put down with a hammer.
525 build thread
- Thread starter peter purpose
- Start date
Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:
[quote author="Siegfried Meier"]I'm thinking of doing just this - make a single rack space, Front Panel Express file, get EDAC connectors, or whatever, and just rack the 2 units. Only thing is the P/S. Anyone know what I need? Or maybe just buy the JLM powerstation, and that will most likely work for what I need.
Thanks,
Sig[/quote]
A lessor known powersupply that I think would work fine here is a kit made by PAIA. It avoids the whole AC connection head ache.
http://www.paia.com/proddetail.asp?prod=9770R%2D15
CC
Thanks,
Sig[/quote]
A lessor known powersupply that I think would work fine here is a kit made by PAIA. It avoids the whole AC connection head ache.
http://www.paia.com/proddetail.asp?prod=9770R%2D15
CC
edanderson
Well-known member
now sold out:
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=286214
ed
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=286214
ed
okgb
Well-known member
Hey Ed , did you mention something about the xfmr colors being
different ?
Although it is awhile off , i'm looking at how to wire up the xfmrs so i can keep the parts together
thanks & regards Greg
different ?
Although it is awhile off , i'm looking at how to wire up the xfmrs so i can keep the parts together
thanks & regards Greg
edanderson
Well-known member
from:
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=24087
[quote author="edanderson"]the main difference is that where the originals had striped lead wires for the "cold" ends of each winding, these have solid colors.
primary: red to orange
secondary1: blue to green
secondary2: brown to black[/quote]
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=24087
[quote author="edanderson"]the main difference is that where the originals had striped lead wires for the "cold" ends of each winding, these have solid colors.
primary: red to orange
secondary1: blue to green
secondary2: brown to black[/quote]
peter purpose
Well-known member
He's Canadian Ed, you'll have to trot that one out another few times before he grasps it.
okgb
Well-known member
Nah , it's a combo of being in a hurry , behind and needing glasses ,
but i gotta say we're all a little tired of keeping houses for the Queen when she comes to visit , can you let her know we've had enough ? !
but i gotta say we're all a little tired of keeping houses for the Queen when she comes to visit , can you let her know we've had enough ? !
peter purpose
Well-known member
That's odd Greg, Her Majesty speaks very highly of you.
okgb
Well-known member
That's cause we spend so much money to keep her isloated from the masses [ and the truth ] in high style .
and anyway she never calls , so it's lip service i think !
Before we distract the thread though thanks again for your fine offer of compression to the
masses , through your boards .
btw , what is the status of the metal work & kits now that you are on a 2nd round of pcbs ?
take care regards Greg
and anyway she never calls , so it's lip service i think !
Before we distract the thread though thanks again for your fine offer of compression to the
masses , through your boards .
btw , what is the status of the metal work & kits now that you are on a 2nd round of pcbs ?
take care regards Greg
peter purpose
Well-known member
[quote author="okgb"]
btw , what is the status of the metal work & kits now that you are on a 2nd round of pcbs ?
take care regards Greg[/quote]
Got three sets left and one is spoken for.
Not really a second round of pcbs, just what I have left.
btw , what is the status of the metal work & kits now that you are on a 2nd round of pcbs ?
take care regards Greg[/quote]
Got three sets left and one is spoken for.
Not really a second round of pcbs, just what I have left.
peter purpose
Well-known member
The mod to rectify the output termination blunder is a breeze.
Cut the two traces at the red marks and bring the resistor leg (pink) to the switch/jumper.
Cut the two traces at the red marks and bring the resistor leg (pink) to the switch/jumper.
peter purpose
Well-known member
Gentlemen,
ATTACK MOD
If you've built one of these and are wondering why the attack pot does bugger all... well I'm afraid you're going to have to add a resistor.
If running a 10k pot, stick a 10k resistor at the pot return-to ground.
This will halve the control voltage to the fet at full clockwise.
If this is too much for you, experiment by going up in value with this resistor.
If it's already built and you don't want to take things apart, you can add the resistor on the pot/meter board. Just make sure to add it to the pot return pad.
peter
ATTACK MOD
If you've built one of these and are wondering why the attack pot does bugger all... well I'm afraid you're going to have to add a resistor.
If running a 10k pot, stick a 10k resistor at the pot return-to ground.
This will halve the control voltage to the fet at full clockwise.
If this is too much for you, experiment by going up in value with this resistor.
If it's already built and you don't want to take things apart, you can add the resistor on the pot/meter board. Just make sure to add it to the pot return pad.
peter
peter purpose
Well-known member
Oh yeah.... Some comments from a UK number one producer on the 525 copy.
"Absolutely LOVIN' the compressor to bits! In a word - AWESOME! Not exactly sure what is different to my original 525. Something not quite right in the input pot/"more"switch department. Probably the alignment/FET business. Sounds BETTER than mine ever did. Especially on vocals! not so sucky as the old one, but f@@k me! I love it to bits! Great on bass guitar, stand-up, and synth b-lines. Should sound much more compressed when you crank the switch up, but who cares? I could never have used mine on a lead vox before! Attack makes virtually no difference surprisingly, so perhaps if a longer attack is possible, it would be a good thing (addressed above). Loving the LED's!!!!! Looks perfect to me. Seriously cool in the lunchbox, easy to see across the room, and for once, blue is COOL. - Oooh Yeah! Given the option to make this one more like the original in response, I think I would would have to say no, even if this is not quite authentic. It is so smooth, and yet so filthy at the same time."
It's all in the alignment.
If you want it like the above, align it as in the notes.
If you want a standard response, adjust R7 for 0db.
peter
"Absolutely LOVIN' the compressor to bits! In a word - AWESOME! Not exactly sure what is different to my original 525. Something not quite right in the input pot/"more"switch department. Probably the alignment/FET business. Sounds BETTER than mine ever did. Especially on vocals! not so sucky as the old one, but f@@k me! I love it to bits! Great on bass guitar, stand-up, and synth b-lines. Should sound much more compressed when you crank the switch up, but who cares? I could never have used mine on a lead vox before! Attack makes virtually no difference surprisingly, so perhaps if a longer attack is possible, it would be a good thing (addressed above). Loving the LED's!!!!! Looks perfect to me. Seriously cool in the lunchbox, easy to see across the room, and for once, blue is COOL. - Oooh Yeah! Given the option to make this one more like the original in response, I think I would would have to say no, even if this is not quite authentic. It is so smooth, and yet so filthy at the same time."
It's all in the alignment.
If you want it like the above, align it as in the notes.
If you want a standard response, adjust R7 for 0db.
peter
Great info......thanks!
im finishing mine now,- have a question about the bypass switch/board:
what do the B G R points stand for? im guesing G is ground and B and R goes to the led (Blue - Red?) with the corresponding rl1 and rl2?
also,the calibration notes says "make sure R63 is 150" - but if using just one unit(mono) this resistor is bypassed with the jumper?
thanks
im finishing mine now,- have a question about the bypass switch/board:
what do the B G R points stand for? im guesing G is ground and B and R goes to the led (Blue - Red?) with the corresponding rl1 and rl2?
also,the calibration notes says "make sure R63 is 150" - but if using just one unit(mono) this resistor is bypassed with the jumper?
thanks
peter purpose
Well-known member
[quote author="mich"]Great info......thanks!
im finishing mine now,- have a question about the bypass switch/board:
what do the B G R points stand for? im guesing G is ground and B and R goes to the led (Blue - Red?) with the corresponding rl1 and rl2?
also,the calibration notes says "make sure R63 is 150" - but if using just one unit(mono) this resistor is bypassed with the jumper?
thanks[/quote]
Correct on both counts.. :thumb:
im finishing mine now,- have a question about the bypass switch/board:
what do the B G R points stand for? im guesing G is ground and B and R goes to the led (Blue - Red?) with the corresponding rl1 and rl2?
also,the calibration notes says "make sure R63 is 150" - but if using just one unit(mono) this resistor is bypassed with the jumper?
thanks[/quote]
Correct on both counts.. :thumb:
great. but one last thingy..........
the bypass switch does not show on your coloured schemo - i checked if it is implemented as in the original schematic but i dont see how....
in other words: i've got compresion going on but the bypass does nothing...(i left out the meter board and using a 200uA meter)
pics to follow...
the bypass switch does not show on your coloured schemo - i checked if it is implemented as in the original schematic but i dont see how....
in other words: i've got compresion going on but the bypass does nothing...(i left out the meter board and using a 200uA meter)
pics to follow...
peter purpose
Well-known member
Biggun.. http://www.twin-x.com/groupdiy/albums/userpics/525Cschem2.jpg
