525 build thread

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[quote author="shabtek"]mine says

nod to the septics

will it still work?[/quote]

Haha :green: ... highly unlikely.

I was wondering when you lot would notice that.
 
I received the 525 pcbs and like to say "very nice work" :wink:
Where is everyone getting transformers :?: I know search the form but just thought I'd ask :oops:

Thanks Peter

Cheers :guinness:
 
You're welcome. :thumb:
I'll be going for Ed's transformers. Look back a few pages.
I can't tell any difference between them and the originals.

peter
 
Thanks peter

I think I was missing the sub miniture

Mouser

one of the E-Switch models starting with PBH2UEE

Need to chose what cap color you want when you order.....


Note these may or may not work....
 
hi!...

what are the values for follow caps:
CD5
CD6
and these two caps behind the vertical opamp and c14/r49

I would like to use the 990 opamp...
do I have to change some resistor values or anything else=?

thank you!
 
Kazper... Do you mean the 5* 2-pole pushbutton switches?

I got some in my kits but those were missing for a while in the mail and I went ahead and ordered extras from mouser. I'm not sure if mine are the right kind either but IF they are I'll be glad to send'em to you .. be in touch later tonight.
 
King Rb:

"what are the values for follow caps:
CD5
CD6 "

CD6/5 are both 33pf

and these two caps behind the vertical opamp and c14/r49

R49 is a resistor - 47K

C14 is a cap - .1UF or 100nF

Pretty sure you don't have to change resistor values using a 990... my understanding is all of those DOA's with the 2520 footprint will work

best

Richie
 
[quote author="king-rb"]hi!...

what are the values for follow caps:
CD5
CD6
and these two caps behind the vertical opamp and c14/r49

I would like to use the 990 opamp...
do I have to change some resistor values or anything else=?

thank you![/quote]

Check the updated bom.
Not entirely sure of any changes needed when using 990s.

peter
 
Questions of my own:

1) What does "Led Dependent" mean for RL1 and RL2 ?

2) What is "200uA FSD meter" ?

3) Can someone give me an example or part number for a "tri color cathode of choice" that will work for this project?

4) Also is there a part I need for mono strap and mode or is that taken care of through wiring?

best

Richie
 
[quote author="peter purpose"][quote author="king-rb"]hi!...

what are the values for follow caps:
CD5
CD6
and these two caps behind the vertical opamp and c14/r49

I would like to use the 990 opamp...
do I have to change some resistor values or anything else=?

thank you![/quote]

Check the updated bom.
Not entirely sure of any changes needed when using 990s.

peter[/quote]

Hi,

In the boom the two caps behind the vertical opamp and c14/r49 they do not have reference nor value in the boom.

193926.jpg


What is the value for these capacitors?

Thanks.
 
<<1) What does "Led Dependent" mean for RL1 and RL2 ? >>

Read the forgen thread

<<2) What is "200uA FSD meter" ? >>

It is a meter with a 'full scale deflection" of 200uA.
If you're using the led meter, you need not trouble yourself with this.
Read the forgen BOM.

<<4) Also is there a part I need for mono strap and mode or is that taken care of through wiring?>>

Piece of wire or jumper.
If going stereo with these things, then wires are attached at the strap points and for the mode... strap for full lighting, or leave for single led lighting.
Read the forgen thread.

peter
 
<<rl1/rl2 led dependent.what`s this?.i`m ashamed to ask. >>

"Don't be.
The in/bypass switch has provision for a tricolour led. Use whatever floats your boat to get the desired brightness.

peter"

I read this before and I'm still not sure, sorry. I just don't want to hurt the circuit the first time I turn it on

<<2) What is "200uA FSD meter" ? >>

"It is a meter with a 'full scale deflection" of 200uA.
If you're using the led meter, you need not trouble yourself with this.
Read the forgen BOM. "

sorry, I wasn't sure if it was an either or situation.

thanks

Richie
 
[quote author="capnspoony"]<<rl1/rl2 led dependent.what`s this?.i`m ashamed to ask. >>

"Don't be.
The in/bypass switch has provision for a tricolour led. Use whatever floats your boat to get the desired brightness.

peter"

I read this before and I'm still not sure, sorry. I just don't want to hurt the circuit the first time I turn it on
[/quote]

led: something like this: http://www.distrelec.com:80/ishopWebFront/catalog/product.do/para/language/is/de/and/shop/is/CH/and/id/is/01/and/node/is/acaaadaaacai/and/series/is/1.html;jsessionid=2171EE854200F65EB30606A5F5199967.chdist54

and then the resistors depends on the led you have used, and the brightness you want.
 
[quote author="capnspoony"]
I read this before and I'm still not sure, sorry. I just don't want to hurt the circuit the first time I turn it on [/quote]

LEDs come in many varieties. Colour, size, brightness and so on.

For 'your needs' Richie, they all need to be of the 3mm variety.
10 of them being one type for the meter and 1 of another type for the in/bypass switch.

For the meter they will be single colour 2 leg. Get the colour and brightness of your choice. Play with RM1 to get the desired brightness.

For the in/bypass switch, the pcb has provision for a tri colour, common cathode led. That is a 3 leg jobbie, with the centre leg being common.
Get whatever colours float your boat and use the appropriate resistors for each colours requirement.

peter
 
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