Access-312 Build Thread

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3nity said:
Cinemag CMOQ-2s.
Jensen? sowter?

could you provide me with links to the individual selling points / online stores please ? :)

which would you prefer of em all or should I wait for ed finishing his?
 
toneboner said:
@sr1200  --  totally jealous.  even with ur weird 48v voltages ur well on your way. i'm still saving up the scratch for my cinemags...!  what are using the 12v rail for?

@micdaddy  --  the bom i posted was from another thread (cant remember!) and will stuff 4 boards + extras.  Itd be nice to know what someone else thought of the parts -- errors, advice or substitutions...

you know that there were just two potentiometers? :D

meaning whoever created the list put parts for about four units into the cart but just chose two potentiometers. Weird.

---

Hey guys,

Couldn't anyone at least approve the list boner has posted in order to get a speck of direction: http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=80AA125D0A ?

Maybe also a hint on the brand of resistors & capacitors or what voltage is needed for the .1 uf part?

I'd greatly appreciate your help.

PS: I have barely experience with putting diy units together, however the list looks a bit bare and hard to connect without voltage information on couple of the parts.

--

what psu would you recommend to power 4 units?

--

Do you have a good two pin terminal block from mouser I can use for this project?

--

Can it be that you've confused R5 with R4 in your newest bom?
 
sr1200 said:
I used the whistle rock PS with an avil lindberg trafo.  I've read that the DIYpartssupply PSuniversal can be used as well (i needed an extra rail for my VU meters)

thanks, that'll give me a good direction where to go

Also, what are my railing options?

-

Now, C8: 220pf. What about the voltage ? There are 8000 of this kind...
 
Apparently you can have a 3rd rail on the DIYPS power supply as well.  I believe im running mine +- 16v +12v and +48.  I think with some mods you can run at 24v.

I think i did my caps at 35v except where noted otherwise. 

The 6V I think i went with 16V since i couldnt source a 1500u 6V cap.
 
???

wires go where

312wiring.png
 
Buildafriend:
You need to inverse the poles on the switches.
if you wire the toggle the same pattern as the pushbuttons switches will be on at the bottom position.
Thanks.
 
For people with ed's input transformer, here is C8:

mouser: 81-RPER72A221K2P1B03

For all the remaining resistors, you can choose regular 1/4 xicon for example or vishray.

Gonna post my mouser cart project as soon as the order has left the building :D

Thanks 3nity for the heads up and all the support he has given me so far. I'll offer support with anyone seeking help at this topic :)

-

Still, I'd appreciate a psu / transformer recommendation to power four units within the case.

Even if it is just what you've stuffed in your very unit.
 
Transformers Antekinc.com is really cheap priced and well done.
PSU is diypartssupply good and efficient as well as affordable.
Thanks.
 
3nity said:
Transformers Antekinc.com is really cheap priced and well done.
PSU is diypartssupply good and efficient as well as affordable.
Thanks.

Thanks mate, lot to choose from though :D

Guessing with your recommendation, I'll settle with the diypartssupply unit.

[/quote]

I'd be very interested if this is at all possible.  Anybody care to show a sketched up schematic?  I'm not great with theory but trying to learn as I go.  This way I could add an additional toroid and JLM Powerstation to my existing unit (powering 8x EZ1290s) so I could power 16x pres from 1RU psu. 


I've talked some with 3nity about incorporating the whistlerock DI boards into the access 312 build.  3nity hinted that it would only take a few snips to add the DI option.  If anyone would help explain the most efficient way to do this I'd appreciate it very much.
[/quote]

DI option? What would keep you from stuffing the whistlerock psu into the same case? Some metal shielding I suppose would possibly do the job. I'm kind of reluctant to invest in this unit just because I'm not experienced enough to understand the following options:

Negative Rail

First Positive Rail

Second Positive Rail

I know that you'll have to accommodate the phantom voltage but that's pretty much it.
 
Negative and positive rail for the 2520 are for audio. The air compresses and rarefracts te same way your audio signal is positive and negative. At least.. That is how I think if it. Any one single
Hot rail is just to power things like bulbs or active parts that do not need to
Fluctuate as freely.

Correct me if I am wrong.

Can anyone help by filling my previous wiring chart that has no wires drawn in?
 
looking at the board (with the transformer to the back)

R O
Y G
B P

The switch should have the following

looking at the back of the switch
P B
G Y
O R

And you can connect your LED for the phantom power + to Purple - to Blue



This is before i cleaned up the insides (after i got my transformers)
312572_2543378226871_1326207212_3009414_1948143697_n.jpg


The pre is towards the bottom just below the green Joe meek in this shot (just showing what it looks like with the switches and added 5fish VU meters.
309008_248373848549544_233521766701419_619320_1530445758_n.jpg
 
For the XLR ins and outs; should I only connect hot and cold? I am used to sending the wires shield to the board as ground... I need to learn how all this transformer balancing stuff works. The board does not have any input pad/terminal for my shield.

What pins do the gain pads connect to on my pots?



 
This is the first build I have done without a wiring chart. I have built two hair ball kits and the SB4000. They both had very elaborate wiring information.

When people say look at the "meta," do they mean the original schematic?

I am going to hold off on wiring the switches because I have that front panel coming and want to make exact lengths for my wires. Until then I need to get this thing as close to ready as possible.

I don't even know how to wire up the toroid really... I know I need 120V... I used the Ptownkid PSU and his recommended VPT36-690 triad magnetics toroid.

59bda03c.jpg

as for the toroid I got this far.. the top 2 lines are for input connections and the second two lines are for output connetions.

Ptown kid's PSU has terminals for 2 secondaries. Why is that? is for 120 or 240 wiring? AHH  ???

there is this whole mess with me figuring out and understand how to wire the toroid to the IEC and power switch.
edb99a91.jpg


 
im pretty sure that if you ask Bryan directly he will be glad to help you!
looks neat overall!
Thanks.
 
Primaries; Tie blue to violet and tie Gray to Brown, these are now your two connections that go to your IEC inlet, it does not matter which is which as it clearly states on the data sheet. The ground tab of your inlet should go straight to chassis.


Secondaries; tie red to orange and connect it to the ground spot on the pcb (this is your center tap). the other two leads are sec1 and sec2.

This will get you past this point, but you should really take your time to understand why you are doing the things I'm telling you. This is not meant to be insulting in the least, so please don't take it as such, but most people here will not walk you though a build step by step. I'll see if I can dig up the link for the page that helped me wrap my head around transformers and psu's back when i was in your shoes. The basics are really important to learn.
 
buildafriend said:
For the XLR ins and outs; should I only connect hot and cold? I am used to sending the wires shield to the board as ground... I need to learn how all this transformer balancing stuff works. The board does not have any input pad/terminal for my shield.

What pins do the gain pads connect to on my pots?

Thanks a million ptownkid! Your kits rule. It's all set. Is a 1.5 amp
Switch good enough? Also bump on my quoting myself.
 
please don't forget that using a on/off power switch will change the way the primaries are wired. The power switch will go between the IEC inlet and the transformer.
 

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