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Thanks for the info on C6 3nity! I have another question..... The BOM Im using is 3nity's ver2 BOM and after readung this thread for the 500th time noticed tha some guys are switching the values for r4 and r5???? I have 100ohm for R5 and 5k plus a 5k pot for r4(trim) but I have seen some on this thread flip theas values??? Any direction would be great!! What do I do? Thanks
Eric
 
I am using a 10 k rev pot thats on the bomv2........so if that what i have is r4 10k an r5 100ohm?? sorry for the confusion.
Eric
 
oh jeez i flipped the values on one it says r4: 100r and the other its 10K...
For that follow the order on bom 1...untill i fix it..
Sorry.
 
Ok so r4 and r5 are reversed on the BOMv2.... :) Thought I was going nuts!!Now thats straight I wanted to add a trim pot so I bought a 5k resistor and a 5k pot that now would go in at r5 correct?
Eric
 
Ok let me rephrase my question... Earllier in this thread thre was a conversation between 3nity and sr1200, you guys talked about adding a 5k pot and a 5k resistor at R4???
I can only assume you ment R5 Correct?
Eric
 
tskguy said:
Ok let me rephrase my question... Earllier in this thread thre was a conversation between 3nity and sr1200, you guys talked about adding a 5k pot and a 5k resistor at R4???
I can only assume you ment R5 Correct?
Eric
Eric, instead of painting by numbers, try to understand the circuit behind.
This preamp is based on a simple non-inverting opamp gain stage with variable amount of gain. Add up the gain from the input transformer and output transformer, depending on type and wiring for your total gain.
Voltage gain of this opamp gain stage is 1+(Rfeedback/Rshunt) for DC conditions, ignoring the AC response from C6 and C7 in the frequency range of interest just for examples sake.
Rfeedback is the resistor between opamps output and its inverting input, from Jorges schematic R5 with value 10K.
Rshunt is the resistor between opamps inverting input and reference voltage 0V, from Jorges schematic R4 with value 100R in series with the 10K potentiometer with reverse logarythmic law for the variable part of gain, so this shunt resistor can be adjusted anywhere within 100R and 10.100R on paper. (ignoring the shunt arm cap C6 in between just for now).
When you fill in the numbers in the voltage gain formula above, you come up with a voltage gain of 1+(10000/10100)=1.99 with the pot dialed in full CCW (highest resistance 10K) and a voltage gain of 1+(10000/100)=101 for the other extreme setting with the pot dialed in full CW (lowest resistance zero ohms).
From the 1+(.. in the formula above, you'd also see, voltage gain will not go lower than 1, so the gain pot will never be a volume adjust to -infinity.
Make these above voltage gain readings a dB reading is LOG(voltage gain)*20, giving LOG(1.99)*20=+5.98dB and LOG(101)*20=+40.09dB, roundabout +6...+40dB.

If -for whatever reason- you want a perfect 10K feedback resistor, your (flawed) idea seems to be substituting the fixed 10K resistor R5 with a series string of a fixed 5K resistor and a 5K trimmer, connected as rheostat, so its effective value could be varied between 5K and 10K on paper.
You already know, there is no such thing as a perfect part, so FI resistors come with tolerances, maybe +/-1% for your fixed resistors and +/-20% for variable resistors. Counting in these in their tolerance extremes, this on paper 10K series string with trimmer dialed in full CW for its max.resistance setting might result into something in between (5000-50)+(5000-1000)=8950 ohm and (5000+50)+(5000+1000)=11050 ohm. If tolerances are on the negative side, you never could adjust it to the desired exact 10K value. To make it (still flawed) work on paper and keeping your trimmer, you'd calculate for the trimmer in its about center position (5K/2=2K5) to catch these tolerances, so the fixed resistor better would be 7K5 instead for this example of a series string.
The flaw with this series string is, trimmers or pots might fail one day or the wiper might lose contact for the blink of an eye while dialing and this open circuit resistance value now increases to infinity, resulting in an opamp without feedback, running open loop. Using a maybe 15K resistor for R5 and placing a 27K in series with your 5K rheostat in parallel to this 15K will leave enough variation to dial in your perfect 10K value and limit the feedback resistance to 15K, if the rheostat fails.
Only using a fixed 10K resistor for the feedback resistor R5 will spare you the prementioned parts cost and hassle.
 
My mouth is still hanging open after reading that. ( Holy cow man, that was some hard input. )
I thought I knew what was going on in there... and I kind of understood what 3nity was going for with his suggestion, but damn... that just took it to a whole new level of WTF man!  LOL good show!
 
It was the (hopefully) simple answer for changing just a single resistor value and its consequences if done wrong (better take your head down when the cones of your speakers take off and fly thru your room with this opamp/DOA running open loop ;).) For usual there is a reason for every parts value. Nothing wrong with changing it, but its not the worst idea to know what you're doing. You could learn so much by simply ignoring these BOMs and have a look at the parts datasheets, app notes or just applying ohms law. Besides obvious errors, you might notice some essential parameters not listed in these BOMs, such as FI the power rating of R1 and R2 from this builds BOM when you imagine a -not so uncommon- shorted mic cable dumping +48V phantom to gnd. You do the math, why a FI 0.25W resistor rating in this spot might not be the best idea. You might read about parts temperature limits when soldering to their leads, especially for caps, switches or semiconductors....
 
Paint by numbers is exactly what I do! :) That being said I am learning this stuff slowly and surely, emphises on slowly. My "flawed" idea actually came from others in this post and to be honest I questioned the methodology behind thier statements. Thats why I asked for clarification, go back and read the thread.  Anyway the flawed suggestion will be ignored. Infact I decided against a trimmer at all.  ;)

Eric

 
any objection towards this transformer for four units? http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Triad-Magnetics/VPT48-1040/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuKmRn7rpQYPRSGU26rTs7Qqq%252bTZQYE73M%3d
 
atticmike said:
any objection towards this transformer for four units? http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Triad-Magnetics/VPT48-1040/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuKmRn7rpQYPRSGU26rTs7Qqq%252bTZQYE73M%3d
I'd paint it green and stick a candle in the middle. Only 324 days to go until next christmas.
... can't be bothered to read the thread ...
 
I guess it would depend on what power supply you're using.  There was a bit of a discussion about what is needed for a 4ch unit either earlier on this thread or on the WM thread (which was kinda like the support thread for a long time for this proj.)  Check em both out, you'll find it.
 
I guess it would depend on what opamp or DOA you intend to use. This parts supply limits would be the 1st step before deciding what secondary AC voltages and VA rating of a mains transformer is required to get to the DC voltages needed.
 
I've got 2 of my 4 done and wanted to see if I could power them up and put the other 2 in later when the funds are available. I have the psuniversal from diyparts supply and the triad vpt-30 (15VAC@25VA). I'm a newb when it comes to thinking for myself in the power department. Thanks for the advice
 
Got a quick question about C6 which has been updated from originally 1500 at 6.3 to 100 – 470uF, ranging between 10v-16V. Is it necesarry to regard the change in the updated bom and stick with the latter or is it okay to use 1500uf/6V?

Going by the 48v reference, it seems to serve the purpose of buffering.

Mike
 
Hi all,

Finally got one these in a case and powered up. So far no preamp glory :( a quick test late last night and all I get is noise. interestingly enough the "noise" seems to be affected by the gain pot appropriately as well as phase and pad switches. I take that as good sign, maybe.... Anyway voltages seem good, and I have tested with different opamps( I have four) and each is the same. I do have four boards stuffed and ready to test so I should be able to rule out bad components. Any suggestions regarding this would be helpful. Oh and yes the xlr are star grounded as well.

Thanks,
Eric
 

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