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Ok,

All is good. I had a couple of problems. First off I had one side of the stereo control grounded out.

Second, I have a bad PAIR of meters. Luckily I had a third that showed me the correct readings. What A pain!
 
I am excited to say that I am about 2/3 finished wiring my La2 with original UTC's. The only part that I am still lacking is the +4/+10/gain reduction switch. Where does a fellow find this switch?
This forum is invaluable. Thanks!
 
Well we could do the work for you and look it up but at this point you know Lorlin is a good choice. Look at the schematic, how many poles is it? How many positions does it require? The Lorlins are easy to figure out.

By doing some of the research you will get a better understanding of what is going on and make less mistakes. I'm not trying to be mean here just to push you a  little to do a few things on your own. You know D.I.Y. !  ;D  (no disrespect).

Go check out Mouser or Digikey on line catalogs and get back to us with the part you think is appropriate.

Jim
 
Hi Jim.
I'll search , but searching by myself I made an error with my GSSL and ordered BBM.(What a pitty to desolder those ones!)
So I prefer asking to be sure.
I know you're (quite) right , I'll dig it out. :p
BTW : thanks!...
 
But come back and give us the link to the part and we'll confirm. I'm taking liberties in saying "we" so I mean "I".

Jim
 
I'm actually soldering a D LA2a (SilentArts) , according to the schemo I have (an original one from Teletronics) and according to my poor knowledge , I would say :
2 poles 3 positions ???(Out+10/GR/Out+4)
I only knew Lorlin 2X6 you could put in 2X3 by changing the position of the washer under the nut...
If I'm right I would say Lorlin CK1060 or CK1040 (if they have to be MBB)
ie : 112-3700 @ Farnell ...(CK1060)
:-\ correct??
 
2P3T is correct. I'm not sure about MBB but I would venture to say it shouldn't cause a problem either way. Its only switching what the meter sees.
The Lorlins let you set the position limit so you  get a 6 position 2 pole and set to 3.

The Cayocosta layout lets you visualize a lot of components. It helped me a lot.

Jim
 
Been collecting parts for this project for a while and had made a case for it, but sort of ran out of ambition to finish the project, so I jumped at the chance to buy a Bloo "kit" from another forum bro a while ago. I was building it while I was also moving interstate and lost the Bloo manual part way through so I finished it up doing lots of reading and staring at the schematic and layout, drawing a lot of inspiration from the finished units posted here. It's not the most beautiful build, but it's deadly quiet and sounds pretty nice:

Thanks all for the help - Steve for originally putting together all the hard-to-find parts and the case, Cayocosta for the layout everyone uses, special mention to 30ips for the Bloo kit and squib for testing three of my T4Bs and selecting for distortion...

Now for a question - the manual mentioned that tips would be compiled and sent if you emailed Steve. Was this ever done or is this thread what exists of the tips? Has anyone compiled corrections to the manual in one place (besides scattered in this thread)?
 
I've just finished a couple of projects that had been lying around for quite some time. One of them is a LA2A (drip V2) and it's working fine. The only thing that worries me, is the fact, that the power transformer (hammond 369jx) gets really really hot. After about 15 minutes it's too hot to even touch. I've wired it for 240V because the mains voltage here is considerably higher than 220V. Is this heat normal or not a good sign? As I said, the unit is working great, I'm just not sure if everything is as it should be.
 

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