Any advice for parts to use in a Hairball 1176 Rev A?

[JMan]

Glad you found it!

This is your first build, right? I think that we all get really excited at the beginning and think, "I want to do all sorts of customizing to this and that's going to make it perfect" (however we are conceiving of "perfection"). I have to tell you, projects like the Hairball have been tweaked and refined to be very high quality over years and years and a multitude of builders, and I honestly don't think you're going to gain much, if anything, by trying to swap out iron or components or what-have-you. The Ed Anderson transformers are very meticulously designed and do not lack anything. I have a Rev D in my rack that I'm looking at right now, built completely stock, and I have never wanted to change a thing about it. These units aren't the KT/WA/etc clones where we might expect cheap parts and cut corners (though to be fair I don't have experience with either of those companies' 1176 models). They really are pro standard right out of the box.

I only say all of this because I recognize your excitement about adding the best gear possible to your studio AND your frustration when you get stuck on the little things. Don't get bogged down in it, it will mostly just create more stress around what should be a fairly easy, enjoyable build. With these units, someone else (mnats, Ed Anderson, Hairball) has already gone down the rabbit hole of tweaking and perfecting things so that you can just relax and build it.

 

[Deadly Mix]

I'm sure you're right. My only big hand up with it is that there are a limited amount of original parts in the world so it would be impossible to, for instance, have an original input transformer for every unit.

With that said, I understand exactly where you're coming from with how they've spent years doing the tweaks already and that it's already got just about the best possible components already.
I didn't just think "Shit. I can't afford a bluestripe. I guess I'll try to build this, since it's all I can afford". I listened to too many units to count both in videos online and plenty in person using ones other people owned. After 3yrs of listening and comparing countless variations, the original and the Hairball were my favorite 2 (with the Bluey coming in 3rd) and the only ones I often couldn't tell apart.
That's a pretty big deal because I can ALWAYS tell a difference. Occasionally, I prefer the knockoff on a particular source for a particular sound (for example, the WA Buss Comp knockoff has more punchy low end than the real thing and that may be preferable on a hiphop drum buss from time to time) but I can always notice the difference.

The reason I focus so much on accuracy and she'll out for the original everytime up until now, as opposed to just being good/bad, is that I like consistency for my work-flow. I might be mixing a song for a client using SSL Native Buss Comp 2 or CLA-76 and suddenly decide it needs a little more life (analog) but its already perfect otherwise. In that case, I wanna swap the plugin out for the real thing and keep going. Maybe I'm remixing a song I already got approval from the client with a couple notes and wanna make that swap in the process. Maybe I started at another studio with an original and need to finish in our studio. The possible scenarios can go on and on but the point is that sounding as expected is often key.
It probably sounds stupid but thinking like that has served me well for 2 decades. My meticulous nature's and discerning ear have earned me a reputation with local musicians that's on par with far more accomplished studios in the Detroit area and I take a lot of pride in maintaining that reputation.

I also think you're right that I'm way over-thinking it because it's my first. I've learned so much in the last few days. Stuff I didn't know that I didn't know lol.
I'm a very fast learner though and have no doubt I'll easily build the next one in a single afternoon.

On a sidenote:
When I was in college studying audio-engineering, we covered a lot of the science behind how EQs and compressors work from the electrical engineering standpoint but (here's something I've never mentioned, let alone admitted) I fell ill with a deadly illness called Gillian-Barre Syndrome one semester and missed a month of school. I'd already completed an apprenticeship and worked at a commercial studio before ever taking a course and the teachers all new that so they never made me makeup the work I missed. Within that month (from what I can tell looking back at the textbooks) is the stuff I should know about ADC/DAC, maintaining equipment, and the much of what I'm learning through this project.

Anyway, what I'm getting at is that I really appreciate you guys.

 

[JMan]

No doubt, I think everyone here can definitely understand where you’re coming from and is happy to help!

 

[Deadly Mix]

I'm almost done but I ordered a small batch of RCA 2N3053 (NOS/gold leads) to replace the one I forgot to add the spacer to. They can't ship until Monday so I've got time to go over my work and order parts for any more mods I decide to make, if I choose to.
I presume this black plastic W-shaped thing is the heatsink I'm looking for.
The top socket on my Meter Switch is crooked, which is preventing me from being able to plug anything into, so fixing that is on the agenda. I also have the ceramic caps, XLR, Active Switch and some test-posts to build. I just can't imagine that taking very long.

 

[Deadly Mix]

Update:
Got the cap I messed up off. Just took a little will-power. A small amount of solder had come to the surface and basically added a little "surface-mount" to it. That appears to be what the problem was with getting it off.

 

[Deadly Mix]

Added the transformers. Just need a good DMM, the new 2N3053 to arrive, then calibrate & test.

 

[Deadly Mix]

Got calibration ready to go. All set on the input... Wrong reading on the output.

Output readin 0.4mVAC, doesnt change whether I turn output knob to center, all the way left, or all the way right. That seems like a bad sign.

Any idea where I should start checking for mistakes? Could the question of whether or not I need to repair the contacts for the TO-39 transistor be the answer to the problem? Or is it definitely something else?

 

[RickD]

Hello Re: RevA Hairball 1176...we've just completed a build from my electronics guy...not sure where to put this question-forgive if it's not appropriate here? There are lots of tutorials and vids, but I can't find anything on installing it the 1176, or users manual (apart from the online vids that are great).

My main question is the back panel, the "Send/Receive" in-out switch under the power on off button. Not sure what that switch does? No other gear we have has exactly that switch...can't find any reference to it online (so far)

Can anybody tell me what that switch does?

TIA

 

[scott2000]

Can anybody tell me what that switch does?

Not familiar with it but looks like some link function. Pretty cool. Guess it can be set up to send to another unit or receive from another unit? To make a stereo pair....
https://www.hairballaudio.com/catalog/fet-rack/active-stereo-link-kit-single-unit

 

[Ricardus]

Hello Re: RevA Hairball 1176...we've just completed a build from my electronics guy...not sure where to put this question-forgive if it's not appropriate here? There are lots of tutorials and vids, but I can't find anything on installing it the 1176, or users manual (apart from the online vids that are great).

My main question is the back panel, the "Send/Receive" in-out switch under the power on off button. Not sure what that switch does? No other gear we have has exactly that switch...can't find any reference to it online (so far)

Can anybody tell me what that switch does?

TIA

It's a link function. It's using the circuit designed by Purple Audio, and Hairball licensed it.

One unit is the send unit and one unit is the receive. They connect with a TRS cable.

The above Hairball link explains it all.

 

[RickD]

Not familiar with it but looks like some link function. Pretty cool. Guess it can be set up to send to another unit or receive from another unit? To make a stereo pair....
https://www.hairballaudio.com/catalog/fet-rack/active-stereo-link-kit-single-unit

Thanks ! So from your hairball link, I think the on/off is not the main power button but the link on/off?...makes sense! Thanks. Since I only have one 1176 at the moment, I suspect for the present I only need to run the in and out XLR cords and power before mounting in my rack.

Really appreciate it... !

 

[RickD]

It's a link function. It's using the circuit designed by Purple Audio, and Hairball licensed it.

One unit is the send unit and one unit is the receive. They connect with a TRS cable.

The above Hairball link explains it all.

!!

 

[orpheusmaximo]

I want to swap my Hairball 1176 blue stripe trafo to an UTC A-20.
Any pointers?
Attached some details of the schematic.

I'm worried that I will mess it up.
Is it: De-solder original, solder extension wires to A-20?

My questions:
Is there a maximum length for these wires?
Connect A-20 pins 1-6 in to 1176 1-5 and A-20 pins 7-12 out to 1176 6-8 right?

P.S: Going more"out there" with the idea, could I connect a pot to the internal
A-20 connectors and "dial-in" an impedance? Is that even necessary, if all I'm
looking for is sounding ( so to speak ) "fat & vintage"? Isn't going the full 600
the way to go, then? Thanks!

 

[orpheusmaximo]

Desoldered the circular trafo and soldered cable to UTC A-20. On guitar it sounds awesome!!!
Bluey Blue box!!! Rock on!!!

 

[gabik23]

View attachment 85463I also built the last weeks a pair of Mnats Rev A and D, and one pair of Gyrafs Ref G.
My first 1176 builds l were a pair Gyraf Rev F that I built a few months ago. All are suuuuperr great. Input-transformerless Ref G is the most versatile for me - more precise than all other ones, a little bit more "Hifi", bit A is more "analog" and little but less "punchy" with more saturation color. A matter of taste.... As for the Transformers for A and D I ve used Cinemags. Long waiting time - actually three months. But with an excellent price - compared the more expensive, but good available Lundahls. For A and D you also need an expensive T-Pad. So Gyraf F and Mnats A and D have at end nearly the same price. I could build every piece for about 500 Euros and I have used good components like BD517 and 518, 2N3707, NOS Philips BF245As...
Btw for the 500' Lovers I can recommend Igors F76 500 with his cool Opamp Variations, also for 51x... PCBs...are available from Franks frontpanel.de...

Hello! Can you build these to sell? Thank you!