B9A tube right angle mounts

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PLA has a very low glass transition temperature (about 60-65°C) so it may start to sag when enclosed in a piece of tube equipment.
PET-G seems to be more appropriate with Tg about 80°C. It's the one in post #53.
I need to experiment with ASA; 100°C, quite expensive, though.
That's exactly what I was thinking about after I posted. I think that for low current preamp tubes such as an EF86 or ECC83, the latter two in particular would be sufficient. Beefy driver tubes such as a 5687 or ECC99 are probably less suitable for this holder. ;)
 
See if this -- STL -- file works, as well. (Rename PDF to: -- .stl --):

View attachment 141169

NOTE: If this file does work and you need something slightly different for a specific application, just let me know, OK???

I have also attached other 3D-printing files in other formats. "RENAME" hints are included within each file name.
I tried all three files. The first two gave a "no geometry data" error but the third one worked fine. I have printed it and the internal diameter measures 17.8mm. For the ceramic tube sockets I use this needs to be increased to 22mm. I expect this is actually 18mm diameter in your drawing so it looks like the 3D printing process result in the hole diameter being about 0.2mm too small so I think the hole diameter needs to be increased to 22.2mm.

On a side note, the file provided by Abbey is about 1.5Mb in size whereas yours is a mere 137K. I can load Abbey's into a regular editor and it is a plain text. I tried the same with yours and I get nothing. I have no idea why this should be the case.

Edit: I just realised there are two stl file formats - one a plain text file and the other a much more compact binary version. At least I know the printer will accept either of these.

Cheers

ian
 
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I tried all three files. The first two gave a "no geometry data" error but the third one worked fine. I have printed it and the internal diameter measures 17.8mm. For the ceramic tube sockets I use this needs to be increased to 22mm. I expect this is actually 18mm diameter in your drawing so it looks like the 3D printing process result in the hole diameter being about 0.2mm too small so I think the hole diameter needs to be increased to 22.2mm.

On a side note, the file provided by Abbey is about 1.5Mb in size whereas yours is a mere 137K. I can load Abbey's into a regular editor and it is a plain text. I tried the same with yours and I get nothing. I have no idea why this should be the case.

Edit: I just realised there are two stl file formats - one a plain text file and the other a much more compact binary version. At least I know the printer will accept either of these.

Cheers

ian
[I tried all three files] -- THANKS!!! That's good to know!!!

[The first two gave a "no geometry data" error] -- I have no idea on "why"!!! I guess I will need to look into this.

[the third one worked fine] -- HEY!!! One out of three ain't bad!!! At least something worked.

[I think the hole diameter needs to be increased to 22.2mm] -- 22.2mm converts over to 0.874-inch. So, "just for good measure", I rounded that up to 0.875-inch, which is 7/8ths of-an-inch over on this side of the pond!!! Here is what the 3D CAD-model looks like on its own:

1733810941816.png
And.....here is what it looks like in its -- .STL -- format (looks rather scary to me!!!):
1733811143583.png

[I just realised there are two stl file formats] -- WELL.....OK, now!!! Now we have all learned something from this exercise!!!

I don't know if this makes any difference or not, but.....I needed to design this part as a -- sheet-metal -- geometry in order for my SolidWorks program to activate the features of being able to "Extrude Cut" (the holes) and "Add Base-Flange/Tab" (the bottom protruding mounting-base) during this design. While SolidWorks does have its own separate "Plastics Design" module, I don't have that installed as most all of my mechanical design work is usually rack-chassis, rack-panels and other sheet-metal brackets and enclosures.

In any case.....the large center-diameter hole is now 0.875-inch (22.225mm) in diameter in the new attached .STL file. Let me know how this works out for ya, OK??? >> GOOD LUCK!!! <<

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Attachments

  • BA-9 -- 3D-Printable Tube-Socket - 22.2mm - RENAME TO STL.PDF
    131.6 KB
@abbey road d enfer , @MidnightArrakis I have printed both your latest versions of the B9A holder and I am pleased to report both work exactly as expected. The ceramic base is a good fit with the hole.

Thanks guys.

Cheers

Ian
That's GREAT to hear!!! Now you just gotta buy and setup at least 6 of these 3D-printers, have them all fed with a parallel-wired signal-feed in a "farm" configuration, and start cranking these "PCB Horizontally-Mounted Vacuum/Valve Tube Sockets" out like crazy for DIY'ers worldwide to buy for their low-profile 1U tube-based projects!!! Doing this will cause the sales of vacuum-tubes/valves to soar, which will then revive the economies of countries all over the world and bring "Peace On Earth" once again!!!

Out of curiosity.....were there any printing differences between the two "same, but different" STL files? Things like: printing-speed, overall dimension accuracy, ease and/or difficulty of printing fine-details, etc., etc., etc.? Or, does it make any different to the printer?

Do you need a similar type of tube-socket for 8-pin tubes? Or, other large-diameter based tubes (i.e., 5U4, etc.)?

I'm really glad to hear that these STL files worked out for you. HAPPY 3D PRINTING!!!

/
 
That's GREAT to hear!!! Now you just gotta buy and setup at least 6 of these 3D-printers, have them all fed with a parallel-wired signal-feed in a "farm" configuration, and start cranking these "PCB Horizontally-Mounted Vacuum/Valve Tube Sockets" out like crazy for DIY'ers worldwide to buy for their low-profile 1U tube-based projects!!! Doing this will cause the sales of vacuum-tubes/valves to soar, which will then revive the economies of countries all over the world and bring "Peace On Earth" once again!!!
If only peace on earth could be achieved so easily. It takes about 20 minutes to print one socket and the same time to let it cool so in a 8 hour day, 6 machines could pump out at least 50 sockets a day.
Out of curiosity.....were there any printing differences between the two "same, but different" STL files? Things like: printing-speed, overall dimension accuracy, ease and/or difficulty of printing fine-details, etc., etc., etc.? Or, does it make any different to the printer?
I did not take a note of the printing time of each type but they were all around the 20 minutes mark. I will do a dummy run of the two versions tonight and note the actual print time estimate the machine gives after slicing.
Do you need a similar type of tube-socket for 8-pin tubes? Or, other large-diameter based tubes (i.e., 5U4, etc.)?

Not at the moment. I tend to "standardise" on B9A base tube types but others might be interested.
I'm really glad to hear that these STL files worked out for you. HAPPY 3D PRINTING!!!
Thank you. I am having a lot of fun.

Cheers

Ian
 
Thank you. I am having a lot of fun.

Cheers

Ian
After realizing that the circular-patterned holes are only needed to physically mount the external tube-socket with screws and nuts, then I am guessing that in reality, you actually only need two "outside" holes in the horizontal-plane.....correct?

1734074102880.png

Like this???.....

1734077373632.png
In addition, I can also see that you are not too keen on using the lower mounting-base flange/platform. Howza 'bout you inform me of your preferred -- metric -- self-tapping machine-screw used for plastics and I could maybe come up with a design whereas the side-profile down towards the bottom is wide enough in order to "have enough meat" to properly accommodate accepting a self-tapping screw. These, of course, would be used to fasten this "Horizontal Tube-Socket" to a PCB. Sound like a plan???.....

1734078725915.png

1734078022516.png

The two new bottom-holes have been sized to fit the below shown "Rounded Head Thread-Forming Screws for Brittle Plastic". The size of this screw is a #6 and the website that I obtained this data from did not show them of having any "Thread-Forming Screws for Brittle Plastic" that are metric-sized. I purposely, and perhaps "mistakenly", selected "Brittle Plastic" as I somewhat gathered that the type of plastic used on your new 3D-printer may be of that type of plastic. If you can inform me otherwise, I can then select another more suitable "Thread-Cutting Screws for Plastic", as the case may be.

Rounded Head Thread-Forming Screws for Brittle Plastic
18-8 Stainless Steel, Number 6 Size, 5/16" Long

https://www.mcmaster.com/97349A421/

1734076460133.png


1734076625771.png

These are my possible choices:

1734078584175.png

>> HAPPY 3D PRINTING!!! <<

>> STL VERSION OUTPUT <<
1734079032503.png

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Attachments

  • BA-9 -- 3D-Printable Tube-Socket - 22.2mm - V2 -- RENAME TO STL.PDF
    46 KB
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Thanks anyway, it didn't work..
Presonally, I'm putting this idea away for now. I can make brackets for my one-off projects . The original moulded plastic item (or a good 3D-printed version) would make more sense for larger quantities. Thanks all!
Try this new attached file. It worked for RuffRecords!!!

/
 

Attachments

  • BA-9 -- 3D-Printable Tube-Socket - 22.2mm - V2 -- RENAME TO STL.PDF
    46 KB
After realizing that the circular-patterned holes are only needed to physically mount the external tube-socket with screws and nuts, then I am guessing that in reality, you actually only need two "outside" holes in the horizontal-plane.....correct?

View attachment 141351

Like this???.....

View attachment 141357
Correct. The first time I fitted a socket I did it at an angle using one of the lowest mounting holes, but it looked like this could lead to it fouling the bolt/nut on the lower mounting-base flange/platform so I moved it to the horizontal position to avoid this. Even if the two fixings did not foul, they would have been so close to each other that assembly could be very awkward.
In addition, I can also see that you are not too keen on using the lower mounting-base flange/platform.
Not at all. At that point I was just interested in getting the tube socket to fit the hole. The lower mounting-base flange mounting holes are fine as they are.

Cheers

Ian
 
Correct. The first time I fitted a socket I did it at an angle using one of the lowest mounting holes, but it looked like this could lead to it fouling the bolt/nut on the lower mounting-base flange/platform so I moved it to the horizontal position to avoid this. Even if the two fixings did not foul, they would have been so close to each other that assembly could be very awkward.

Not at all. At that point I was just interested in getting the tube socket to fit the hole. The lower mounting-base flange mounting holes are fine as they are.

Cheers

Ian
Does my updated and "slimmer" design seem workable for you?

1734117050144.png
1734117098057.png

And, how about the new "in-line" tube-socket PCB-mounting holes?

1734117201265.png
/
 
Does my updated and "slimmer" design seem workable for you?

View attachment 141404
View attachment 141405

And, how about the new "in-line" tube-socket PCB-mounting holes?

View attachment 141406
/
Looks nice, but without one side being flat to the work surface, there is a huge overhanging area which won't print without supports. Unfortunately one of the downsides of 3D printing, due to the laying-down of hot gooey filament under the influence of gravity, is that not every design will print well. Those with at least one large-ish flat side are usually the most successful.
 
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22.2mm version
Thanks, but for some reason none of the files posted to this thread are recognized by my printer's software (Bambu Studio) The program opens the file, but no object appears on the build plate). And it refuses to rename the files as .stl - When I attempt to import them into the program they are not recognized. When I search for them within the program, they appear but only as .txt files, and can't be renamed. Or they are rejected ('file contains no geometry data').

I never have this problem w/ files sourced from regular 3D printing archives. Maybe you could try uploading one of your files at Thingiverse, or another 3D site? Thanks!
 
Thanks, but for some reason none of the files posted to this thread are recognized by my printer's software (Bambu Studio) The program opens the file, but no object appears on the build plate). And it refuses to rename the files as .stl - When I attempt to import them into the program they are not recognized. When I search for them within the program, they appear but only as .txt files, and can't be renamed. Or they are rejected ('file contains no geometry data').

I never have this problem w/ files sourced from regular 3D printing archives. Maybe you could try uploading one of your files at Thingiverse, or another 3D site? Thanks!
Is your version of Bambu Studio up to date. My version is v01.10.01.50 and it imports these files without a problem.

Cheers

Ian
 
Is your version of Bambu Studio up to date. My version is v01.10.01.50 and it imports these files without a problem.

Cheers

Ian
I've so far put off the update. I guess it's possible that might have something to do with it, although my instinct says not. As I said, my printer works perfectly importing files from other sources, just not here. Thanks for the suggestion, I'll try it.
 
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Is your version of Bambu Studio up to date. My version is v01.10.01.50 and it imports these files without a problem.

Cheers

Ian
Did the update, same as yours. Still no go. Does not recognize file format, 'file contains no geometry data'. Files do not appear in Import window, only appear after search, then are not recognized by app. All files in my download from GDIY are clearly marked as text files - renaming them as .stl files does not work. I give up!
 
Did the update, same as yours. Still no go. Does not recognize file format, 'file contains no geometry data'. Files do not appear in Import window, only appear after search, then are not recognized by app. All files in my download from GDIY are clearly marked as text files - renaming them as .stl files does not work. I give up!
OK, just to be clear, I downloaded the files from groupDIY and stored them in a directory. Then with my file manager I navigate to the file in that directory and change its extension to .stl

Only then do I open Bambu Studio and select File/Import from its menu. A file select dialogue opens up, and I navigate to the directory where the file is stored. All the files in that directory with a .stl extension are listed. Are you saying you cannot get this far?

I select the file I want an press the open button. The object immediately opens in the Prepare tab of Bambu Studio.

I have had some files that throw up the "file contains no geometry data" but all Abbey's files have opened straight away.

BTW I am running Bambu Studio on Linux.

Cheers

Ian
 
OK, just to be clear, I downloaded the files from groupDIY and stored them in a directory. Then with my file manager I navigate to the file in that directory and change its extension to .stl

Only then do I open Bambu Studio and select File/Import from its menu. A file select dialogue opens up, and I navigate to the directory where the file is stored. All the files in that directory with a .stl extension are listed. Are you saying you cannot get this far?

I select the file I want an press the open button. The object immediately opens in the Prepare tab of Bambu Studio.

I have had some files that throw up the "file contains no geometry data" but all Abbey's files have opened straight away.

BTW I am running Bambu Studio on Linux.

Cheers

Ian
Thanks for the clarification, Ian.
"Are you saying you cannot get this far?"
Yes, after trying to rename the file as .stl, if I open up Bambu Studio and try to Import, that file does not appear for selection. When I search for it outside the Import folder, it's there but the file name/suffix has reverted to .txt (it may have .stl .txt, but has always reverted to .txt).
PS - I don't know what 'file manager' is. I'm on Win10 and it doesn't appear to be a thing. I just rename after a right mouse click.
 
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