B9A tube right angle mounts

[ruffrecords]

You can't go wrong with the A1 Mini. Way ahead of the pack (IMHO) in that it doesn't require any tweaking (or even assembly), and just works right out of the box.

I went for it. Got a Black Friday deal at £169.

Cheers

ian

 

[MidnightArrakis]

If someone is making these I would be interested. Been considering doing a PCB for a long time but haven't. Have altium if the board is of interest.

[Have Altium if the board is of interest] -- I use the CADENCE/OrCAD program and I can import Altium PCB files into it. Attach your Altium PCB-design file, along with your GERBER and N/C Drill files and I'd like to check them out. (NOTE: I also have CAM350 for importing GERBER and N/C Drill data files).

My PCB in the image shown above was created using SolidWorks, purely as a means to initially determine what all of the mechanical design details of this PCB needs to be. I could even import a SolidWorks DXF file into my CADENCE/OrCAD program, which would then give me not only what the size of the PCB will be, but also where to precisely place my component footprints when I do design the actual PCB. In addition, I am also designing a "Version-2" of this little bracket assembly to house the larger 8-pin socket as well.

[If someone is making these I would be interested] -- I'm going through the entire process (and, "headaches") of designing these right-angled/PCB-mounted tube socket assemblies purely for my own personal projects (and, "pleasure") just because "I like doing things like this"!!! However, in the back of my mind when posting my above response, I figured that there would be one or more members on this forum who may also have an interest in having some of these custom-designed PCB tube-sockets. However, that then enters into the realm of a "group buy" scenario and all of what that entails and that is something I haven't included in my current stage of thinking whatsoever.

In addition, I am currently in only the initial design phase of this little project and I have no clue whatsoever as to what the end cost will be of these two PCB-mounted tube-sockets. But, I do have a rather vague idea that the final cost will probably be far more than what the average GroupDIY member would be willing to pay (I'm guessing). As for me.....>> I don't care (up to a point) <<.....of what the cost will be because I am willing to absorb the higher cost of an item just so I can have whatever it is that I am designing to be exactly how I want it to be designed and built!!! But.....that's just me. In any case, I suppose I can approach the "group buy" scenario once I start to obtain parts and sheet-metal quotes from the various suppliers and vendors. How many would you be interested in purchasing for your own inventory? As I know that you already well know.....higher quantities brings the overall piece-part cost down. Is anybody else "out there" interested in having any custom-designed PCB tube sockets???.....

>> I just wish that I still had some of the "Right-Angled PCB-Mounted 9-Pin Tube Sockets" that I had purchased back in 1975 because they were cheap and mass-produced by a major components manufacturer (TRW Corporation). I have spent a lot of time online doing all manner of "searching" for this item, trying to find out if there is any history or even a mention of this item that may be archived somewhere. So far.....no luck!!! One item that I really liked about the TRW PCB-mounted tube socket, is that the tube pins within the socket-base were integral with the PCB-pins. Meaning, the tube-pins and the PCB-pins were all a single-piece of stamped-out and formed metal. The PCB-pin portion extended out from the rear of the tube-socket base a few tenths-of-an-inch and then were bent down 90-degrees. It was all simply elegant. Oh, well.....memories.....

/

 

[abbey road d enfer]

I went for it. Got a Black Friday deal at £169.

Cheers

ian

At this price, instead of the announced 299€, it's a steal.

 

[abbey road d enfer]

Not exactly a printer farm, but I'd intended making lots of small mechanical parts, and a second printer would have sped things up handily.

I totally understand that. Anyway, considering how fast 3D printers are evolving, it's very likely that your new printer would have much more facilities and increased performance for the same price.
For the very same price I paid my Ender 3V2 2 years ago, I got my MAX Neo. I guess if I wait a little, I could grab a K1S for that money.

 

[ruffrecords]

At this price, instead of the announced 299€, it's a steal.

My feeling exactly. It's list price is £269 in the UK and the Black Friday deal was £100 off. Hard to pass up.

Cheers

Ian

 

[shaggy]

My feeling exactly. It's list price is £269 in the UK and the Black Friday deal was £100 off. Hard to pass up.

Cheers

Ian

Let us know how you go. I think you'll be pretty impressed.

 

[ruffrecords]

Let us know how you go. I think you'll be pretty impressed.

Just got a text to say it is being delivered today!!!

Cheers

Ian

 

[rock soderstrom]

Just got a text to say it is being delivered today!!!

Wow, that was fast. Keep us posted

 

[Tassieviking]

I just buy the daughter boards from Conspiracy To Commit Electronics, usually when I buy another PCB of one of his Tube pedals.
He (Nathan) also has his main shop Sushi Box FX where he sells pre-made tube pedals that run at high voltage while being fed 9V-12V.
I have all of his daughterboards at home just in case I want to make something with a tube in it.
Most of his pedals are made for bass guitar but that just means he has made sure they can go low enough, most perform just as well with guitar or any other instrument.
Here are the links to his shops and some of the forums for his gear:

https://www.sushiboxfx.com/
https://c2celectronics.com/
https://c2celectronics.com/product/extra-daughter-boards/
https://forum.pedalpcb.com/forums/sushiboxfx/
https://www.talkbass.com/threads/conspiracy-to-commit-electronics-megathread.1640493/
https://www.talkbass.com/threads/the-sushi-box-fx-secret-society.1484792/

Pedal kits from Musikding
https://www.musikding.de/Sushi-Box-FX_1_1

Cheers
Mick

 

[ruffrecords]

Wow, that was fast. Keep us posted

I set it up last night and printed the inevitable Benchy. I now need to install Bambu Studio so I can slice 3D CAD files for it.

I must say, it was very easy to set up. The levelling, noise reduction and resonance measurement operations were impressive. I sat and watched it do its first print. This machine really moves! Just waiting now for some reels of filament to arrive.

Cheers

ian

 

[ruffrecords]

No supports, it's printed flat.

Here it is. Save it as .stl.

I printed one of these on my new Bambu A1 mini but the central holes is too small for the ceramic B9A sockets I have. The metal flange fits the outer holes but the central hole needs to be 22mm diameter rather than the current 18mm. I am not sure that will leave enough "meat" for the outer holes. Could you possibly post s version with a 22mm central hole?

Cheers

Ian

 

[abbey road d enfer]

Try that.

 

[ruffrecords]

That worked! I had to file the inner diameter a little to make the ceramic base fit. I do not know if that is a limitation of the 3D print process, inaccurate measurement by me or an error in the stl file, but no matter it fits as the pics below will testify:




Cheers

ian

 

[chrispbass]

Wow, that looks really good Ian.

 

[MidnightArrakis]

See if this -- STL -- file works, as well. (Rename PDF to: -- .stl --):



NOTE: If this file does work and you need something slightly different for a specific application, just let me know, OK???

I have also attached other 3D-printing files in other formats. "RENAME" hints are included within each file name.

Here's a link for a -- FREE -- 3D-printing editing program by a company I have personally purchased a bunch of their programs from:
https://www.nchsoftware.com/meshmagic3d/index.html?kw=stl file&m=p&d=c&c=661666350424&ag=20078924895&gad_source=5&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjfKO3rKZigMVTRitBh3rTwHMEAAYBCAAEgIIwPD_BwE

/

 

[rock soderstrom]

That worked! I had to file the inner diameter a little to make the ceramic base fit. I do not know if that is a limitation of the 3D print process, inaccurate measurement by me or an error in the stl file, but no matter it fits as the pics below will testify:

View attachment 141163
View attachment 141164

Cheers

ian

I'm envious of your new 3D printer! No more drilling aluminum profiles

 

[abbey road d enfer]

That worked! I had to file the inner diameter a little to make the ceramic base fit. I do not know if that is a limitation of the 3D print process, inaccurate measurement by me or an error in the stl file, but no matter it fits as the pics below will testify:

I've found long ago that holes are always slightly smaller than they should be. It depends on many factors, type of filament, layer depth, nozzle and bed temperature, slicer and mechanical integrity.
Many times I have to modify hole diameters in the conception file.
How much was missing? I can easily adjust that.

 

[abbey road d enfer]

I'm envious of your new 3D printer! No more drilling aluminum profiles

PLA has a very low glass transition temperature (about 60-65°C) so it may start to sag when enclosed in a piece of tube equipment.
PET-G seems to be more appropriate with Tg about 80°C. It's the one in post #53.
I need to experiment with ASA; 100°C, quite expensive, though.

 

[ruffrecords]

I've found long ago that holes are always slightly smaller than they should be. It depends on many factors, type of filament, layer depth, nozzle and bed temperature, slicer and mechanical integrity.
Many times I have to modify hole diameters in the conception file.
How much was missing? I can easily adjust that.

I do not know exactly how much was missing. It was almost an interference fit, It only took a few minutes filing to get an easy fit. I would guess 0.2mm on the diameter? I will print another one this evening and measure its actual diameter to be sure.

Edit: the 3mm clearance holes are spot on.

Cheers

Ian

 

[ruffrecords]

PLA has a very low glass transition temperature (about 60-65°C) so it may start to sag when enclosed in a piece of tube equipment.
PET-G seems to be more appropriate with Tg about 80°C. It's the one in post #53.
I need to experiment with ASA; 100°C, quite expensive, though.

Salvador Dali front panels? Hmmmm.

Cheers

Ian