ruffrecords
Well-known member
I agree. The only possibility I can see at the moment are pockets for the nuts. I have seen an example of this somewhere. I need to find it again to see if it could work.
Cheers
Ian
B9A tube right angle mounts
- Thread starter ruffrecords
- Start date
Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:
Cheers
Ian
shaggy
Well-known member
I was wondering when one of you blokes were going to notice that! 8>)
The problem with pockets is that it doesn't leave much meat if staying with 10mm size.
Anyway, the issue is similar with threaded inserts, tehy are 5mm long, which suggests a 13mm cube.
Anyway, the issue is similar with threaded inserts, tehy are 5mm long, which suggests a 13mm cube.
ruffrecords
Well-known member
@abbey road d enfer I agree it looks like a 10mm plastic cube is not going to happen.
However, I wonder of a pocket might work for a replacement of the standard Ettinger blocks I currently use to attach Eurocard PCs to their front panels:
https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/22766.pdf
The M3 thread could be replaced by a plain hole and use an external nut but the M2.5 looks to have about 4.2mm of meat to play with and the nut should be only 2mm thick so we could have over 2mm of meat. Would it be easier/better to use a square nut?
I just looked at M2.5 nut dimensions and basically they are 5mm wide so this is another non-starter.
Cheers
Ian
However, I wonder of a pocket might work for a replacement of the standard Ettinger blocks I currently use to attach Eurocard PCs to their front panels:
https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/22766.pdf
The M3 thread could be replaced by a plain hole and use an external nut but the M2.5 looks to have about 4.2mm of meat to play with and the nut should be only 2mm thick so we could have over 2mm of meat. Would it be easier/better to use a square nut?
I just looked at M2.5 nut dimensions and basically they are 5mm wide so this is another non-starter.
Cheers
Ian
I don't see how you could make it work.
I believe the only option is to have non-coincident axis, for a part similar to the Scroff PCB bracket.
I believe the only option is to have non-coincident axis, for a part similar to the Scroff PCB bracket.
shaggy
Well-known member
You might be better off using thread-forming screws (aka self-tappers) in correct-size holes. A central hole in one face, two in the adjacent face to straddle the first. If hole/screw were sized correctly, the screws would actually reinforce the part.
Last edited:
This is my take on the right angle mount for 9 pin miniature tube sockets. is designed for 4-40 hardware. This is the BOTTOM side showing in the image.
I am running a batch of 12 of these right now, The machine says 1 hour and 29 minute run time - we will see.
I am running a batch of 12 of these right now, The machine says 1 hour and 29 minute run time - we will see.
How did you design it?
Actually, the software used to design parts is probably the most important factor in 3D printing. Of course materials and printers matter, too.
Since I'm not good at learning new tricks, I used one that is probably not the most powerful and open, but it is relatively easy to use (I did,'t say "master").
I didn't choose the software, it's the software that chose me, when RS inroduced Design Spark Mechanical.
I know that Solidworks is a much better package, but it's far from free (€€€€).
I use Autodesk's Fusion 360
Aah, OK. I used it for a time, but for some reason they decided I could not use a free version and should be using a paying version. Also I was a bit concerned about the control they have over designs. I don't remember exactly what was the matter but it seemed to me I had no complete ownership of my designs.
We had too much into it when they made the switch to "you must pay" to leave. It has evolved nicely, I am happy I stuck with it.
MidnightArrakis
Well-known member
This tube-socket kind of looks like it was designed in the 1920's/1930's during the "Art Deco / Art Nouveau" time-period!!! I guess that would be a perfect type of design for use with vacuum-tubes!!!
/
Last edited:
I just washed off the prints, as soon as they are dry I can UV cure them quick and I will post a pic of the finished item/s with a socket mounted (with luck and no shrinkage etc). I have not calibrated this resin as I was just using it for stuff for my grandkids.
Ya, I had no style in mind as I cranked it out other than fit the sockets we had here. lol. I tend to lean toward Bauhaus styles, lol, must be the new tool. I will have a pic of the finished part in a half hour or so. They are drying now.
Here they are... On the one facing us you can see the pattern of the build plate. I would normally tumble these for a few hours if they were not just prototypes. The software says they used 37 cents worth of resin each.
It looks like I could make them slightly narrower, and I think I will flip flop the three screws holding it down, so there is not a screw near the tube socket terminals. I need to make a change in how I position them on the build plate, and some exposure settings, but, all in all I am pleased. I tried to break one with my hands, no go. Hammer yes, hands no.
-T
It looks like I could make them slightly narrower, and I think I will flip flop the three screws holding it down, so there is not a screw near the tube socket terminals. I need to make a change in how I position them on the build plate, and some exposure settings, but, all in all I am pleased. I tried to break one with my hands, no go. Hammer yes, hands no.
-T
Last edited:
Did you deliberately made the hex recesses larger than needed or is it an effect of printing tolerance?
ruffrecords
Well-known member
Are you going to share the 3D file?
Cheers
Ian
Cheers
Ian
I made them slightly larger as we use KEP-s Nuts.
Sure - Let me switch the mounting holes around quick.
ruffrecords
Well-known member
Excellent. I really like the side arms for extra strength and the Art Deco styling.
Cheers
Ian
Similar threads
