Part Five - Paste and Chips
When everything was tidied up I was ready to start smearing past and placing components on the boards. I'd chosen 1gigΩ resistors that had silver connectors and noticed on the spec sheet that tin based solder was fine as long as it had a reasonable amount of silver in it but lead based was out of the question. That's really good to know if you're building anything that's hopefully going to last a reasonable amount of time. The last thing you need is to have your connections corrode away!!
This is one area where my impatience reared it's head. I could've ordered an appropriate syringe to apply the paste, I could only get it in a pot, but I didn't. I wanted to get on with it when it arrived so I pulled out a trusty bamboo skewer and started carefully "blobbing" solder paste onto the pads of my first board. It wasn't as sticky as I'd imagined, but I finally had a technique, of sorts, down and was left with a fully pasted up board!
I can totally see why people would have a stencil made.
If I were to have a larger run of these made I would be ordering a stencil. I'd probably aim to do 10 to a sheet and do the lot in one go, BUT this isn't one of those jobs so the skewer it was.
The very first board was my test case.
I knew I'd be fine to apply the paste, give or take a bit of fiddling here and there, but the tricky bit was the reflow process.
Reflow was a completely unknown quantity, as such. I've soldered with a soldering iron before, but I could tell I wasn't going to be having a hell of a lot of fun trying to solder even big 3216s by hand with a 40w iron. I was betting on reflow being the business, but I was pretty sure I wasn't going to mod a toaster oven to do it. I was going to have to try the "other", slightly less dignified, option.
I used a fairly flat pancake pan.
I pulled out my digital kitchen thermometer and started warming up the pan. The reflow temp on the solder paste indicated a reflow point of around 220-ish, so I did my best to test the heating of the pan with a soak period then ramping up to the reflow point without anything in there. Once that seemed to measure ok I did the same again with the pasted first board. But, strangely, while it worked fine and the paste reflowed with no issue I noticed it did everything measuring a temp on the thermometer of around 80° lower than expected. Now I know kitchen thermometers tend to be a bit off in general, but I thought that result was probably a bit ridiculous so if anyone has any thought on why that might have happened I'd love to hear.
With one successful test under my belt I repeated the paste-fun-times and proceeded to manually place TINY LITTLE COMPONENTS very, very carefully on my second board. Well, they seemed tiny to me. Especially the 2012 cap at C1 that I'd accidentally brought instead of the 3216 size that I'd intended to stick to.
Once the components were on I ran the whole hillbilly-reflow process again and, voila!, I had a mic PCB with all of the SMD components on!!
N.B. ("Noob Bollocks"): When you are ready to send off your layouts to your chosen PCB company make sure you have markings for all of your components. I had most of them, including orientations for the tantalums, but some of the resistors didn't have package outlines on the silkscreen layer and that lead me to place the 2.2k resistors horizontally instead of vertically on the board. I'd gone through and tested all the components for shorts before going any further and found that one of those resistors was showing a short and found the mistake that way. I should've double checked.