Best strippers for removing outer jacket of Gotham GAC-7?

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soapfoot

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The title tells the story--

Which wire strippers do you use to strip the outer jacket of larger-diameter mic cable (like tube mic cables) without damaging the shield, or even small (4-pair, 8-pair) snake cable?

Thanks!
 
Tthe best strippers in my opinion are the Paladin Tools Stripax Pro 6, absolutely amazing, extremely expensive. Which I believe now they are owned by Weidmuller.
 
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For multipair I usually kinda mar it with the cutting blades on the wire stripper then fold it over and gently draw a razor blade across the marks made on the jacket. For PSU wire I use the wire stripper cutting blade and kinda undulate pressure on the handles as I slowly spin the the wire with my fingers. You get a feel for it. There are tools to cut the outer sleeve of big cables but I have never used them.
 
This tool looks "caveman" but I've had at least two in my tool kit for decades:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Xcelite-Wire-Stripper-with-Spring-and-Adjust-Screw-Stop-101SNV/301049934
It was the first example I found from a quick web search. I've found them for a better price elsewhere.

I've done a lot of Mogami snake prep work with a pair of those. I set one to skin off the outer jacket of a pair, and the other to skin off the two individual wires in the pair. You have to fuss with the adjustment screw to set the depths. but once set I can crank through prepping the pairs inside the big outer jacket of the Mogami/etc. snake.

I've been using the Xcellites so long that I can strip about anything "by feel" without messing with the adjustment screw/nut.

No, they are NOT my primary stripper...I also have other tools for given tasks. And, after a few years they become dull...then I throw them away.

I have an earlier version of the Stripax (sp?) mentioned earlier. It was sold by Paladin tools. I use it to prep single conductor wire (usually stranded conductors, but not always) for point to point applications.

I have one of these to remove the outer jacket of snake cables:

https://www.tempocom.com/products/pa1820-am-25-slitter/
I also have tools to strip coax and "Cat 5" style cable. In all, I have maybe eight specialized tools for the variety of cable I work with.

Bri
 
These work fairly well:
Cyclops Cable Stripping Tool

although the 'Tension Band" has become a bit weak on mine and sometimes needs a bit of additional manual pressure.
Beware wide price range on these types (there are loads of different brands attached to this type). These are under £10 but I've seen others at up to £59 !

Apart from that a half decently sharp scalpel does a decent job. I usually cut the jacket - but not all the way through so no contact with core insulation or conductor. Then flex the wire such that the jacket tears along the cuts. Works okay with most jacket materials although not all.
 
My best stripper is this :

1661252920596.png + my thumb !

I roll the cable between the blade and my thumb. I have to admit than when I do multis and it's late ... I sometime cut myself a bit haha. Maybe I should buy that cyclop thingie. But the blade's advantage is that you can strip a wire that's still soldered, or strip the middle of a wire, etc.
 
Same experience here as many others , I find usually once the insulation is scored with a blade and you bend it its ready to break off ,
For solid core or heavier duty power wiring I was shown a quick way by an old TV repair man who I was sent on work experience with during college . Just take your usual close cutting snips , place it on the wire with the extra protruding on the cutting side ,apply light pressure to the jaws and grasping the wire firmly ,strip the insulation , again as previously said ,you have to get a feel for it . Different cable insulations require different approaches , PTFE tends to require light scoring first or it just stretches all out of shape , some of the more elasticy plastics are the same . Others neatly break where you want it too without having to score with a blade .

I do also use the rolling between thumb and blade method ,but I generally use a blunter blade in that case so if my finger slips it doesnt do any serious damage . Im sure we've all been caught out by a fresh Stanley blade or scalpel a few times , at least its a clean cut so if you sanitise it properly and dress the wound it all heals back up in no time .
 
I’ve tried just about every stripping tool there is. There are many tools that if set up for the correct diameter work great. Others like automatic strippers need the length of the strip set. Both are fine for an assembly line type operation.

If you are working on random stuff all the time having to pre set diameter and length is a PITA. I also like the old Xcelite strippers but its a feel thing. I also like the hand strippers with a bunch of diameters. I’ve never like the steipax tyoe auto strippers. I find them fussy. I have a Knipex 12-12-10 for teflon jackets and when the strip has to be right. Those are really nice but expensive.
 
The Stripax Pro 6 recommendation I made earlier, was a recommendation that Brian Roth (member of this forum) made to me around 11 years ago, and it was one of the best purchases I ever made, they are extremely expensive but the are truly a work of art.
 
The Stripax Pro 6 recommendation I made earlier, was a recommendation that Brian Roth (member of this forum) made to me around 11 years ago, and it was one of the best purchases I ever made, they are extremely expensive but the are truly a work of art.
I have the Knipex version which is no less expensive. I’ve never liked that type of stripper. I am probably in the minority. I bought it against my better judgement to give them another shot. Still don’t like them. The Knipex 12-12-10 is more expensive FWIW.
 
I have the Knipex version which is no less expensive. I’ve never liked that type of stripper. I am probably in the minority. I bought it against my better judgement to give them another shot. Still don’t like them. The Knipex 12-12-10 is more expensive FWIW.
I should check them out, thanks
 
the easy way is to let the cable do it for you.
I usually do the following.
1. do a bend in the cable at the exact point you want to have the outer jacket removed.
2. nick the outer jacket with a single edge razor blade
3. as you bend the cable the jacket will start to pull itself apart right where you made the nick.
4. watch is split open exposing the innards
5. repeat for the other side and done.
Depending on the cable the other option i use regularly is the u.s. military method. In the military you are not allowed to use regular wire strippers. This is because when you are dealing with things like nukes, any nick in the wire could cause catastrophic failure. So they use thermal strippers and when in the field, they use a lighter because they usually do not have access to the thermal strippers. While my thermal strippers broke when they took a dive off the bench onto the hardwood floor, I still have the lighter and it works wonders.
 
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X-ACTO knife for the outer jacket.

For the inner, see attachement. Zero-force stripper! Learnt the trick when I worked for the railroad. The guys that did the wiring of the racks.
 

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