Best way to punch IEC panel mount connector in boxes.

GroupDIY Audio Forum

Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I cut them with a Dremel, once the hole for the connector's body is done I place it and mark the screw holes

Actually they're almost the easiest for me
I wish I had thought of this when I put an IEC jack on my Gates Level Devil when I restored it (it was a radio station dumpster find). That chassis has some serious iron on the chassis. It took me a couple hours to drill inside the outline and hand file it to fit.
 
3D printed frame is a nice solution.
I went on and ordered a custom die for the exact same IEC inlet without a fuse.
It’s for a 22.5*30.5mm hole. If anybody needs it:
https://sl.aliexpress.ru/p?key=KVc8Z9L
Edit. This is for the back side mounted inlet. I haven’t received the punch yet, so can’t comment on the quality.
A short follow-up.
I’ve successfully used the punch on several builds (aluminum, 2mm thick panels). Works beautifully. Very easy and fast. Wish I had this kind of tool earlier!
 
Hole punch changed my life too haha ! A friend of mine lended me his IEC punch, beautifully made ... what a difference ! Unfortunately I managed to break the main shaft, so I need to find someone that can make a new one for me !
 
Please excuse me if something like this has been uploaded before...

I did a PCB layout for an IEC "adaptor" where you can use a circular hole punch the width of the IEC inlet and then place this little thing over it to mount it and cover up the rest of the hole from the circular punch. Whole thing is 52mm x 33mm.

JLCPCB is convenient because you can get "aluminum PCBs" and order like twenty of these for $7.50 USD or something. FR-4 PCB material is cheaper but I think metal is a better idea... Maybe PCBWay can do aluminum too? Also, both JLCPCB and PCBWay offer CAD services now, so that's something to consider. Could 3D print as well.

Attached gerber files as a .zip. Also attached is a .dxf exported from EAGLE and a .stp file, but I don't do much (really any...) actual CAD stuff outside of EAGLE so the .stp file might be a little wonky. I uploaded the .stp to SendCutSend just to see if it worked and it looks correct?

edit: oh btw, if ordering from JLCPCB, check off "Specify a location" under the "Remove Order Number" option so it'll be printed on the "back" of the piece.


IEC Adaptor SendCutSend mockup.pngIEC Adaptor JLCPCB mockup.png
 

Attachments

  • IEC Adaptor V1 DXF and STP.zip
    17.3 KB
  • IEC Adaptor V1_1 Gerbers.zip
    36.6 KB
Last edited:
This is a great idea. I have just started using a 3D printer and one of the things it occurred to me it could make would be just such an adaptor. I am going to see if I can import the .dxf file into a 3D CAD program and extrude it by about 1.6mm to make it more like a PCB.

Cheers

Ian
 
Another thing you can do to aid the task of producing common cutout shapes is to make yourself a custom filing guide. The idea is that you spend a lot of time making your desired cutout in a rather thick piece of steel (1/8" = 3mm is handy), then after you remove the bulk of the cutout material from your actual project with a step drill or punch, you clamp the filing guide to the project and file the project metal away in the exact shape of the guide. The guide makes it so that you don't have to be at all careful how you file, since the steel will prevent the file from going "beyond the line" of the desired cutout shape. You start making the guide by carefully laying out the desired shape on your steel blank. Carefully chain drill the outline just inside the line, then file up to the line. Extra points for using tool steel and hardening it once you get it to the right shape. You could also ask a friend with a milling machine to make you one. It is a fair amount of work to do by hand, but you only need to do it once and it will last for many years, particularly if you harden it. For an IEC cutout, include the two screw holes so that you can use them to attach the guide to the project during filing.

Filing guides are also good way to make straight edges on sheetmetal. After making a rough cut with a hacksaw or cutoff disk, clamp a length of thick cold-rolled steel bar to your workpiece, aligned with your scribed line. Clamp the whole thing to your bench and go at it with a file. The guide will stop the file from going past the line, so you can be absolutely careless with the file while getting a perfectly straight edge. Once you have filed up to the line, draw file the edge to produce a smooth, burr free edge. I use a large piece of angle iron for this that I can clamp in a bench vise. I've added a clamping bar that uses bolts and tapped holes to secure the sheetmetal workpiece. You could also screw the angle iron into the edge of your bench to make custom sheetmetal vise.

While we're at it, one other trick for filing rectangular cutouts is to make yourself a "safe edge" file. Take a standard flat file and grind away the teeth along the narrow edges. This prevents the file from cutting sideways, and lets you easily file perfect square corners without the risk of the file damaging the side edge.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top