Bo Hansen DI layout

[Ricardus]

I used a common Hammond enclosure and designed my own front panel for it using Front Panel Designer.

Hey Treb, which Hammond box did you use? I might try my hand at designing the front panel on the next set of these I build.

 

[Bo Hansen]

Ricardus,

No problems.....

What I mean is that we made this PCB layut for standard general purpose components in normal size that can be accessed everywhere, and if these are used, the PCB mounting becomes most convenient and stylish.

Thanks for the nice words about my DI-box design, of course there are some other very good active DI-boxes on the market, but yes, this is a very simple and well thought out circuit solution for their job, which makes it one of the better DI-boxes today.

—Bo

 

[Treb]

Hey Treb, which Hammond box did you use? I might try my hand at designing the front panel on the next set of these I build.

I used a 1455N1201 box. Its technical drawing can be found online, thus making your own design panel(s) very straigthforward.

 

[Ricardus]

I used a 1455N1201 box. Its technical drawing can be found online, thus making your own design panel(s) very straigthforward.

So I just designed a panel similar to the ones I got from Frank using Front Panel Designer, and using the Hammond enclosure, and doing something similar design wise to what I have, it's way more money than just buying from Frank.

It was fun designing the panel (even though I found a bug in the program) but the price difference is too big, as much fun as it was doing my own design.

 

[Ricardus]

I ordered 4 more PCBs and a Haufe from Volker. I also ordered one of the OEP's. So now I can have some fun with some variants. I actually bought a road case since I plan to have 6 of these eventually. 2 of each.

 

[Ricardus]

One can never have enough active DI boxes! Finally got around to soldering two more boards. One with the Haufe I ordered, and one with the OEP. Gotta try out some different iron!

But I have to say, compared to the original BOM I built with, this is more correct, but a little less interesting. All of the resistors are the right wattage and fit in the holes properly, but these 1% metal film resistors don't have the colored stripes on them, which in my opinion make a circuit look pretty. They just look like little black blobs. But it's better than having to jump through hoops to get those over-sized resistors in. 

 

[Ricardus]

another Source:

https://www.bdent.com/2sk170bl-toshiba-audio-transistor.html

Has anyone ordered from this vendor? Are these legit?

 

[Potato Cakes]

If you heart is set on NOS transistors, here is the only place I would trust:

https://www.usbid.com/parts/2SK170

I bought some of the transistors originally found in SSL preamps from them and they check everything to make sure it tests correctly. Outside of that, unless Pier is supplying them for his APP992/3 DOA's, I would just stick with modern equivalents.

Thanks!

Paul

 

[Ricardus]

That one should work. It looks like it has the same impedance values as the Carnhill 9045, which is listed as an acceptable transformer on Bo's website. I've build a couple with the Carnhill's and I know they work great, so I don't know why the Ed Anderson version wouldn't be great as well.


Thanks!

Paul

I'm going to build one with the Ed Anderson traffo in the near future. As I understand it it can basically be used as a drop in for the Carnhill VTB-9045 so I'm curious.

 

[Potato Cakes]

I use the same EA transformer for various Neve type circuits and they wire exactly like the schematic shows, so the same should apply when putting one in one of these DIs.

Thanks!

Paul

 

[Ricardus]

I use the same EA transformer for various Neve type circuits and they wire exactly like the schematic shows, so the same should apply when putting one in one of these DIs.

Thanks!

Paul

The Hairball website actually has a wiring guide cross referencing it to the Neve, so it'll be easy.

 

[pushbroom]

Of course, the hole/solder connection labeled chassis must be connected to the metal box.

Please note that it is very important to follow the instructions on how to arrange ground between connectors, pc-cards and metal box, that we have discussed lots of times in this thread, and I also write about this on my tech page
www.hansenaudio.se/techpage.htm

—Bo

Apologies for not understanding, but is it necessary to tie both the chassis point on the PCB as well as XLR pin 1 to the enclosure?

 

[[silent:arts]]

Apologies for not understanding, but is it necessary to tie both the chassis point on the PCB as well as XLR pin 1 to the enclosure?

The PCB takes care of your XLR pin 1 to chassis, no need to do it in addition:

 

[Ricardus]

Finally got my panels in from Front Panel Express and finished up two more of these. I used the Hammond enclosure that Treb mentioned above. OEP and Haufe transformers.

EDIT 6/3/19:

I actually changed the way the plastic trim ring was facing on the black one, to something I liked more, and re-uploaded the pic.

 

[Treb]

Nice builds Ricardus!

 

[Newmarket]

Finally got my panels in from Front Panel Express and finished up two more of these. I used the Hammond enclosure that Treb mentioned above. OEP and Haufe transformers.

Nice. Any subjective opinions on OEP vs Haufe ?

 

[Bo Hansen]

Yes, very nice done Ricardus.

—Bo

 

[Ricardus]

Nice. Any subjective opinions on OEP vs Haufe ?

Not yet. But I will, though. Let me get a few gigs under my belt with them and I'll let you know. Just doing quick tests after I built them, they both sounded very good. I have also built two with Lundahl 1538XLs a couple months ago so eventually I'll have a lot to say. 

 

[Ricardus]

Yes, very nice done Ricardus.

—Bo

Thank you, sir!

 

[Baltazar]

These DI's sounds great!

I'm about to replace my J48s with these, but i have a question, there is  a great "merge" feature on the J48 that makes a passive summing of the two jack connectors (make the thrujack to an input). Great feature.

What would be the right way to do a similar thing on a Hansen di?