Bo Hansen DI layout

[Potato Cakes]

If you need to merge, you will have to either add another 1/4" jack or repurpose the AMP OUT connection on the board. Either way, this would require you to add a series buss resistor with the input jack, and that would be a discussion best in the mixers forum or a new thread.

Thanks!

Paul

 

[Bo Hansen]

Hi Baltazar,

My ”monitor amp out”  jack is better than a "thru jack" if you want to feed  an unbalanced 1:1 instrument signal to a guitar/bass amp, as this does not load a passive guitar as a normally parallel connected "thru”  jack does.

So keep this "monitor amp out" jack as it is and add instead an extra input jack connected in parallel and mix both input jacks with two suitable resistors (perhaps a good compromise is 22 kohm)  especially if it is two active instruments like synth or similar that you want to mix.

Note, you have to connect the short-circuit contacts in series on the input jacks when they are in parallel, otherwise they short-circuit each other if only one plug is inserted.
This can be done with Cliff Plastic
”brake-brake” mono jacks.

—Bo

 

[Ricardus]

Man oh MAN is it hard to buy one of those Carnhill VTB-9045's. My bank outright blocks any and all purchases in the UK because apparently fraud is off the chain right now over there, and my regular credit card company declined the purchase, too. Not sure why, so I'm waiting for a call back to see what happened.

 

[Bill Wilson]

You can cl your bank & have them temporarily unblock the card so you can make the purchase.  I have the same issue w my card thru my credit union. The cards are restricted on out of country buys.

 

[Potato Cakes]

You can also use the Ed Anderson equivalent that Hairball Audio sells. I've used them for Neve builds and they sound great. I haven't made any side by side comparisons but I doubt you'll be disappointed going this route if the Carnhills are difficult to acquire.

Thanks!

Paul

 

[Ricardus]

You can also use the Ed Anderson equivalent that Hairball Audio sells. I've used them for Neve builds and they sound great. I haven't made any side by side comparisons but I doubt you'll be disappointed going this route if the Carnhills are difficult to acquire.

Thanks!

Paul

I'm actually going to do one of those next.

So I had to talk to my CC company, and do the transaction while I was on the phone with the rep. He made sure it went through. This was after confirming 15 different ways it was actually me on the phone, which was fine. I appreciate the security.

 

[Ricardus]

You can cl your bank & have them temporarily unblock the card so you can make the purchase.  I have the same issue w my card thru my credit union. The cards are restricted on out of country buys.

My bank that handles my debit card won't do it. Not even if you sign something. The only time they open up transactions in the UK is if you are traveling to the UK, and you go in and sign something, THEN, AND ONLY THEN, they will partly unlock your card. They will allow you to withdraw cash from ATMs only. No in-store purchases. So you have to pay cash for everything.

But as I said in my previous post, my credit card company helped me with this.

 

[Ricardus]

I soldered up the board for the DI with the Carnhill 10468/VTB-9045. The traffo should be here tomorrow.

This one will have a blue enclosure with gold custom face plate.

 

[Ricardus]

There's no getting around it. That is one sexy transformer.

 

[Ricardus]

My Carnhill DI is done. Loving this. Can't wait to record with it.

Guts shot.

 

[Ricardus]

Carnhill glamour shot.

I also have an Ed Anderson 10468 and will be building one of those next month.

 

[Ricardus]

Just finished wiring the Ed Anderson 10468 DI, Here is an internal shot with wiring in progress. The transformer is mounted and wired.

 

[Bo Hansen]

Ricardus,

I see here earlier in this thread that you use Carnhill mic transformer.
You should watch out with the grounding of the metal casing.

I have just discovered that two of these transformers sitting in another product where the screen-can consisting of two metal halves  is not in contact with the side screws or the other shield half because the blue paint isolates them from each other, and also insulates the screw in the countersink holes.

I've also written to Carnhill about this.

—Bo

 

[Ricardus]

Ricardus,

I see here earlier in this thread that you use Carnhill mic transformer.
You should watch out with the grounding of the metal casing.

I have just discovered that two of these transformers sitting in another product where one half of the shield is not in contact with the side screws or the other shield half because the blue paint isolates them from each other, and also insulates the screw in the recess of the holes.

I've also written to Carnhill about this.

—Bo

Hey Bo,

I noticed in a post you made long ago about wiring the Carnhill that you said to tie pins 6 and 10 to one of the fixing screws. I found that there was not continuity  between the two sets of screws, so I ended up tying them all together by tying pins 6 and 10 to both screws on the top where the pins are. Seemed to work fine.

Also, a suggestion. Add the Ed Anderson 10468 on your web page in the transformer section where you list the Carnhill and the Sowter. The Ed Anderson can be purchased at Hairball Audio.

 

[Bo Hansen]

Ok, but the problem seems to be bigger than that, because dom of the two mic and two line Carnhill input transformers I measured on had no contact between the side and bottom mounting screws to both shield halves at all, due to very good paint job that isolated effectively.

—Bo

 

[Ricardus]

Ok, but the problem seems to be bigger than that, because dom of the two mic and two line Carnhill input transformers I measured on had no contact between the side and bottom mounting screws to both shield halves at all, due to very good paint job that isolated effectively.

—Bo

I checked for continuity with my meter across all of the screws, and mine wasn't as bad as the ones you mentioned. I think I'm OK with the method I used.

 

[Bo Hansen]

Yes, BUT from the screws to the metal under the blue paint, there is a risk that there is no connection.

 

[Ricardus]

Yes, BUT from the screws to the metal under the blue paint, there is a risk that there is no connection.

Then what do I do??

 

[Bo Hansen]

Unscrew the four side screws and make new countersink in the holes so that you come down to the metal through the paint.
Use a countersink tool or a 3-4 mm drill by hand.

When you now screw back the screws, these can make ground contact from the bottom screws/ground terminals to the two shield halves.

—Bo

 

[Ricardus]

Unscrew the four side screws and make new countersink in the holes so that you come down to the metal through the paint.
Use a countersink tool or a 3-4 mm drill by hand.

When you now screw back the screws, these can make ground contact from the bottom screws/ground terminals to the two shield halves.

—Bo

I ended up using 3 different drill bits from my drill index, turning them gently by hand so that I removed the paint, but not too much metal. I used three different sizes to make sure I had a big good shiny contact area for the screws to touch.

Should be fine now.