Bss dpr 402 service manual request

[pucho812]

finally got my capacitor order for this.
Boy they were not kidding. Even with an electronic desolder station, took the better part of a day to recap one unit. Sure enough after it was recapped, I get a full output level of around 23dBU with no compression engaged, output level at full and an input level of +4dBU. Ha za ha za, it’s behaving like a new unit. While I normally don’t shotgun caps like this, if the main folks in town say to do do, then I’ll listen. Now I gotta do the others and go from there.

 

[Whoops]

While I normally don’t shotgun caps like this, if the main folks in town say to do do, then I’ll listen.

For units with more than 25 years, I do a complete "Cap Shotgun" (Lytics and tantalum) with no remorse.
It never becames worse, always better

 

[pucho812]

For units with more than 25 years, I do a complete "Cap Shotgun" (Lytics and tantalum) with no remorse.
It never becames worse, always better

It’s a safe bet. If one goes others may follow so I get it. But the caps in here are all axial and there is no space for anything else so it gets pricey real quick

 

[Khron]

Especially if they're small, radials will do just fine even if you splay the legs. Or even lay them down and bend up one of the legs and run it along the cap's body to get a faux-axial type deal.

None of the (really) "serious" electrolytic manufacturers make any axials anymore anyway (AFAIK), so you're left with the choice of good and affordable caps in the wrong form factor, or (best case) lowly general-purpose (and pricey) caps in the right form factor.

 

[Whoops]

It’s a safe bet. If one goes others may follow so I get it. But the caps in here are all axial and there is no space for anything else so it gets pricey real quick

I always replace old Axial caps with Radial (Panasonic 105degrees) , I spread their legs, lay them down, get even more creative, whatever works.

There’s higher quality choices in radial caps and they're much cheaper also

 

[jef111]

Forget Harman. It's not what it used to be...
I found something...

 

[pucho812]

Especially if they're small, radials will do just fine even if you splay the legs. Or even lay them down and bend up one of the legs and run it along the cap's body to get a faux-axial type deal.

None of the (really) "serious" electrolytic manufacturers make any axials anymore anyway (AFAIK), so you're left with the choice of good and affordable caps in the wrong form factor, or (best case) lowly general-purpose (and pricey) caps in the right form factor.

I would do that too except, there is not enough physical space to make all that happen. In some spots even doing an SMD capacitor adding legs would not work. I thought about all the options.

 

[Script]

In some spots even doing an SMD capacitor adding legs would not work.

Briefly tried in vain to find a picture of that PCB on the web. Why wouldn't SMD with added leads work here ? No solder pads on PCB top side ? Or just way too many (thinking time and pita factor) ?

 

[pucho812]

Briefly tried in vain to find a picture of that PCB on the web. Why wouldn't SMD with added leads work here ? No solder pads on PCB top side ? Or just way too many (thinking time and pita factor) ?

physical space. For example, there are spots where there are 3 X axial capacitors side by side, under a VCA daughter board. Any radial cap in place of the axial caps will not fit there as it would be too tall and make contact with the daughter board. an SMD cap would be too big in diameter to fit there.
I thought about mounting all the caps on the bottom side but then the bottom lid of the chassis would not be able to mount back on. But this is not everywhere, there are some spots where one could get away with a radial cap and the leads doing a split.

 

[Whoops]

Any radial cap in place of the axial caps will not fit there as it would be too tall and make contact with the daughter board.

An Axial cap will fit in any place of a Radial, you just have to lay it down on a PCB like a radial and extend one of the legs. Easy enough

 

[pucho812]

An Axial cap will fit in any place of a Radial, you just have to lay it down on a PCB like a radial and extend one of the legs. Easy enough

yes but all the caps in the unit are axial. and yes an axial can be used in place of a radial, the Neve VR for example does that all over the place.

 

[pucho812]

Onto problem #2 with these.
both channels work but at certain release settings in the stepped release pot, the channel stays compressed and doesn't release.
challenge. pushing on the pot itself causes it to come good and work and if I stop pushing it goes back to not releasing. This should be easy to sort. I hope I don't have to replace the pot itself. mainly because I don't know if Harman stocks that or if the other place will stock that.

 

[Script]

Could you post a quick picture of the PCB ? Got curious cos might be able to pick one up but would like to assess beforehand what I might be facing

 

[omv.peter]

@pucho812, do you have a list of needed caps?
I have a unit and would be interested to know the volume of the work and of course to make the ordering easier

Best regards
Peter

 

[pucho812]

@pucho812, do you have a list of needed caps?
I have a unit and would be interested to know the volume of the work and of course to make the ordering easier

Best regards
Peter

Values were posted in the thread earlier by someone else. Check the first page of this thread. I can tell you prior to replacing them the measures output level with my test signals and no compression was well below +23dBU which was my expected target when completed based on what the unit controls were.

Could you post a quick picture of the PCB ? Got curious cos might be able to pick one up but would like to assess beforehand what I might be facing

Here you go. This is just one shot but as you can see, lots of caps, not including the ones under the daughter board. I count 40-50 lytics alone on what can be seen in the photo alone. Luckily there are 2 x main values lots of 47u/10v and 10u/25v

 

[Script]

@Pucho, thanks for the shot.
Good to know there's a bottom lid.

 

[Gold]

Those Philips/BC/Vishay axial caps are pricey. I use those for restoring old Neumann electronics as they are close to original. The first time I rebuilt my lathe electronics I used regular 85º Nichicon caps because I didn't know any better. Those caps lasted in a fairly hot environment for about 20 years without a failure. I recapped it just for good measure with the BC caps last year.

 

[pucho812]

Those Philips/BC/Vishay axial caps are pricey. I use those for restoring old Neumann electronics as they are close to original. The first time I rebuilt my lathe electronics I used regular 85º Nichicon caps because I didn't know any better. Those caps lasted in a fairly hot environment for about 20 years without a failure. I recapped it just for good measure with the BC caps last year.

Yes they add up quickly. luckily there are some alternatives in the 105C temp category that are axial and fit close enough.

 

[pucho812]

Found the replacement attack and release stepped rotory switch. They are discontinued. mucho dinero on ebay, 60 dollars for 2.
Then I found chip one stop, which is part of arrow electronics. They have then at a much more reasonable rate. They are in japan though so shipping will be interesting.

 

[Script]

Shipping cost itself from Japan (e.g small parcel with Japan Post) shouldn't be too bad. Not sure about import tax and custom clearance in US though.

[We sent some gift (it was really just a gift) overseas and recipient had to pay heftily. But that was to inside EU.]

Let me know if you need info on alt shipping quote etc. Not all websites are in English.